My take on cutouts.
1) do not try to save any honey. Scrap it all. If you really think it's not been sprayed, then feed it to the bees unless there is some way to actually keep it clean. Usually it's covered in dirt and sawdust by the time you're done.
2) do not try to save ALL the brood. Go for the big chunks. Figure on trying to save 50%. Try to be sure to get some emerging brood (to quickly repopulate) and some open brood (in case you miss the queen and to anchor them to the new hive). If you try to save it all you often don't have enough bees to cover it and the SHB or the wax moths take over.
3) do not use a bee vac. I've probably killed more bees with a vacuum than anything else. If you insist, then take precautions not to overheat them and to cushion their crash landing int he vacuum. I just don't use them. Piles of sticky, overheated, dead bees are just too depressing...
4) keep an eye out for the queen. Any cluster of bees is suspect but especially if there is a tight knot in the middle of the cluster. Shake or brush all the bees into the new hive.
5) have a bucket of water to wash out the brush as it will get very sticky. Have a bucket with a lid for the honey. Another bucket for empty comb. Another bucket for scrapped brood. A hairclip queen catcher for if you see the queen. Some lemongrass essential oil. Put four drops in the new hive and ten or so on the outside of the new hive. If you have some QMP (Queen Mandibular Pheromone) use some of that. If it's the PsuedoQueen plastic kind, use a full tube or at least half in the new hive. If it's in the form of "queen juice" (old queens in alcohol) use four drops of the alcohol in the new hive. Have some pinesol to spray in the old location to cover pheromones there. I agree you should charge in the long run, but it is hard to honestly charge money for a service when you've never done it before. But as Idee says, once you realize how much work it is, you'll see why you should charge...