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DOWN UNDER BEEKEEPING / How insects move - not just bees
« Last post by max2 on May 08, 2024, 06:44:17 pm »


A study led by the Swiss Ornithological Institute in canton Lucerne has shown that, throughout Europe, insects tend to prefer moving around midday or dusk.
This content was published on May 8, 2024 - 11:54
3 minutes
Keystone-SDA

Understanding such migratory movements is of great importance both for the protection of insects as well as their management, study author Birgen Haest told the Keystone-SDA news agency on Tuesday. For example, the findings, published in the ?Philosophical Transactions? scientific journal, make it possible to determine the optimal time for the use of insecticides.

+ Swiss farming trend: pesticide-free, but not organic

At certain times of the year, trillions of insects travel, at altitudes of up to several hundred metres, to other locations, Haest explained. Some insects migrate hundreds to thousands of kilometres.

?An insanely large biomass is moved in this way,? said Haest. Many of the insects provide vital ecosystem services such as pollinating plants. Others are pests which threaten biodiversity, cause considerable economic damage or pose a threat to human health.
Studying small insects is difficult

Against the backdrop of insect extinction and the suspected effects further up the food chain, a better understanding of the movement patterns of migratory insects is urgently needed, the researchers say in the study.

?Little is known about these migratory movements,? said Haest. This is because studying insect migration is not an easy endeavour. ?The insects fly high in the air and are very small,? the researcher said. Traditional methods would quickly become too costly and impractical for long-term, time-specific and geographically-distributed data collection.

For their study, the researchers recorded insects with radar devices between March and October 2021. The radar network was placed in 17 locations, from south-west France to Helsinki.

?To our surprise, we found that the migration peaks were the same across Europe,? said Haest. This shows that the insects probably use daylight as their means of orientation.
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RAPID BEEYARD GROWTH / Re: I Have Too Many Bees
« Last post by Ben Framed on May 08, 2024, 05:36:51 pm »
In my climate wood is not an option.  Even pressure treated lumber will only last a few years in contact with the ground.  But I could probably use half-height cinder blocks.

All pressure treated wood is not the same.. Yellawood?, pressure treated wood company was started by Jimmy Raines and brother, using only the best in chemicals and techniques for this purpose...

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YellaWood? brand products carry a Lifetime Residential and Agricultural Limited Warranty against structural damage caused by fungal decay and termites for above ground, ground contact and fresh water contact applications.https://penlumber.com/brands/yellow-wood-treated-lumber/#:~:text=Guaranteed%20Protection,and%20fresh%20water%20contact%20applications.
93
RAPID BEEYARD GROWTH / Re: I Have Too Many Bees
« Last post by Ben Framed on May 08, 2024, 05:06:53 pm »
Quote
My concern is that in our humid climate, it takes bees long to cap honey.  I often have 3 supers on a hive and none are ready to be harvested because the first box isn't capped yet.  But we'll see how it goes.  The blackberry isn't as runny as the sourwood, so maybe it won't be a big issue, and perhaps I can reduce them when the dearth hits before sourwood.   

Do you use a means of ventilating your hives to aid the bees with this humidity problem?
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RAPID BEEYARD GROWTH / Re: I Have Too Many Bees
« Last post by Michael Bush on May 08, 2024, 03:35:38 pm »
Yes, half height blocks are 4".  Pavers might be only 2".
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RAPID BEEYARD GROWTH / Re: I Have Too Many Bees
« Last post by Terri Yaki on May 08, 2024, 02:57:31 pm »
In my climate wood is not an option.  Even pressure treated lumber will only last a few years in contact with the ground.  But I could probably use half-height cinder blocks.
Paver stones would work but they might be costly.
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RAPID BEEYARD GROWTH / Re: I Have Too Many Bees
« Last post by The15thMember on May 08, 2024, 02:53:32 pm »
In my climate wood is not an option.  Even pressure treated lumber will only last a few years in contact with the ground.  But I could probably use half-height cinder blocks. 
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RAPID BEEYARD GROWTH / Re: I Have Too Many Bees
« Last post by Michael Bush on May 08, 2024, 02:16:59 pm »
A cinder block is 8" tall.  A two by is 3-1/2" tall.  A medium box is 6-5/8" tall.  Basically if you drop it to 3-1/2" tall you'll gain one box.
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RAPID BEEYARD GROWTH / Re: I Have Too Many Bees
« Last post by The15thMember on May 08, 2024, 02:06:23 pm »
I just use two cinder blocks.  Some of my stands are partially buried in order to level them. 
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RAPID BEEYARD GROWTH / Re: I Have Too Many Bees
« Last post by Michael Bush on May 08, 2024, 01:39:02 pm »
How high off the ground is the bottom box?  A short stand can buy you one or two boxes...
100
RAPID BEEYARD GROWTH / Re: I Have Too Many Bees
« Last post by The15thMember on May 08, 2024, 01:14:53 pm »
Thanks for the replies, guys. 

If they are too tall, you can harvest, or you can split them.  You'll get more honey if you don't split them and apparently you don't want to anyway.  So it seems you'd be better off harvesting.
My concern is that in our humid climate, it takes bees long to cap honey.  I often have 3 supers on a hive and none are ready to be harvested because the first box isn't capped yet.  But we'll see how it goes.  The blackberry isn't as runny as the sourwood, so maybe it won't be a big issue, and perhaps I can reduce them when the dearth hits before sourwood.   

There is also the option of a ladder... but it comes with it's own set of problems.  Basically you have to lift the full super over you head to walk down the ladder with it.

Ladder
There is absolutely no way I can do this safely with a ladder.  Not only is that precarious under the best of circumstances, but the area around most of my hives is not level. 

if you have the wooden-ware split then recombine later.
I don't.  I don't even enough boxes for the flow if things keep going like this.  I'm going to have to get a few more, but I'd rather not invest in any more bottoms, tops, stands, etc.  I just don't want or need this operation to get any larger. 

Have you considered selling some nucs or whole hives? In PA we can do that fairly easily. My mentor tells me that it is a matter just getting inspected and then you are licensed.
I have, and I don't think you even have to be licensed in NC, but I'm just not really set up for it this season.  I'm also not sure about what is more economical, breaking the hives down and selling bees, or letting the hives get big and selling honey.  And if possible I'd like to try to manage the hives for honey production because I've never had the opportunity to focus on that before, I've always been mostly concerned with growth.   

I talked to my family about it, and what I'm going to do for now is just have my dad help me lift boxes down.  He's 6' 4" so I should be able to get to 7 or 8 boxes before he'd have trouble lifting them, and he's almost always outside working on something over the weekend when I typically do inspections.  That way I can just try letting the hives get big for this season and see what happens.  If it becomes unmanageable then I'll develop a plan to do things differently next season.       
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