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As I understand it, BT doesn't stop the moth, just the larva after they have eaten too much.

Correct but chemical free and they don't have to eat much...
GENERAL BEEKEEPING - MAIN POSTING FORUM. / Re: Frame storage and wax moths
« Last post by tjc1 on Today at 11:30:21 am »
I don't have a lot to store, so this may not be suitable for some, I put my fames to be stored in a freezer for at least 2 days more when I can.  Then I put them in plastic containers with a lid that fits fairly tight.  So far haven't had any problems doing this. I use tote bins from Lowes, they are black with yellow lids.  Don't remember how many frames will fit, that also is different on what size frames you use.  Frames I store are mediums and shallow mostly.  I think I get about 25 or so per bin.

Good luck to you and your bees,

Joe D

I do the same, but store the frames about 12 to a bag in heavy compactor trash bags and store them with the frames sitting on their ends.
Neil... been using this for near on 5years now... bees leave it bee.

"Available in this handy pack of 3, Selleys No More Gaps Multi-Purpose is a general-purpose interior/ exterior
flexible gap filler. Its low shrinkage, water based formulation delivers superior flexibility & long term resistance
to cracking & crumbling, "

It is something one never used to worry about as the bees soon glued up
any inperfections themselves, but now with SHB around they have no time to bee at it so I seal
everything internal with that product. Skins in minutes and no odours, maybe a little shrinkage
if a huge "hole" but a second hit fixes that too.

As to internal painting.
Never done it myself as I prefer the bee finish a strong colony puts on raw timber.. it is a sign
your work is helping them out. That said I have handled and worked hundreds of internally
painted boxes. All I could say negative about that practice is they always manage to look
'dirty', regardless.


Xentari-   Bacillus thuringiensis, subsp. aizawai,

... not that one SC-B, mine, linked to below ;-)

on: August 12, 2017, 09:31:27 pm


« Last post by Acebird on Today at 10:29:59 am »
Duffy without a location it is hard to know what season you are in.  For me there is a lot of foraging left so I would not harvest until the box is completely filled and capped.
GREETINGS/TELL US ABOUT YOURSELF / Re: Salutations Grand Readers !
« Last post by eltalia on Today at 10:17:05 am »
Yeah G'day back, Neil. There being not so many Aussies too vocal
around these forums another is most welcome ;-)

To what I can do for your questions?

Most demand is for laying queens, so factor that in to your setup maybe.
Fellas as meself will play with virgins just for genetic diversity like but
we are a rare mob, an' that like :-)
One tip is; if you are going to supply differing lines then you'll need to
be able to guarantee consistency. BKs buying batches get a tad annoyed
when the product lays colonies of varying performance.

Propolis and bee venom;
There is a niche market for propolis amongst the crafters, particularly
indigenous artista. Nobody I have heard of is into venom, but that means
little in a big Country!

Your're aware this 'product' is simply a mix of compunds found by bees in
many a forage of our woodlands, yeah?
For mine the whole marketing thing is somewhat of a scam but every man
and his dog is "into it". I could only offer, once again, test and be consistent.
FWIW... if there is still chonky (chinki) apple stands out past Dimbulah you
would do just as well on those and marketing it as:
"Aged Asian Herbal Honey (aphrodisiac)".

LMS trees;
Just down the road from you is Yuruga nursery (Walkamin?).
Carn't say of late, but not so long back they did fantastic bizness with me.
I believe they ran into some woes and are now reopened under new managment
 - http://yuruga.com.au -.
Give them a ring, I am sure they would have both, or would get them for you at
a fair rate.
corymbia citrodora lemon scented gum
leptospermum petersonii lemon scented teatree

Then again if your are bit handy with green things - as many a BK is -
there is the marcotting option, a way forward that would give you a substantial
grove within two years, and flowering.when seasons are on the money.
Having been "at it" for more than a decade now I highly recommend developing
your own method. I still buy in trees but usually only if I cannot drive to 'em.
Bee aware DERM frown on the activity, and so sometimes one has to be more than
a little discreet. :grins:

So, pull up a chair and join in ;-)


pssst.. none 'ere 'speak' FNQ lingo so playing it straight is sound advice
 : tips hat:
I would not do it.  Paint is toxic until fully cured.
HONEYBEE REMOVAL / Re: beeswax rendering
« Last post by Acebird on Today at 10:05:58 am »
I don't get the boiling restriction... If you burn a bees wax candle the melted wax is exposed to 800C over 1400F and yet the melted wax doesn't get darker.  There is not a lot of difference between steam and boiling water.  They are both near 212F.  The latent heat of the water will cool as the wax melts and so too steam which will condense into water.  The fat bee man is a heck of a beekeeper but he tends to write his own laws of nature.
I think the cheapest steam generator you can buy is a Wagner wall paper stripper.
« Last post by bwallace23350 on Today at 09:47:36 am »
Mr. Wallace, in Arkansas there are over 20 different species of Goldenrod.  Some species like wet soil while others like dry, well drained soil.  In the US, there are over 100 species.

In Arkansas the goldenrod blooms from July through Sept on average.  This day, today, my bees are packing in pollen, several different shades of color, even though we had 3/4" rain this morning.  Go figure, I would think the pollen would have been washed off the flowers.

I'm sure in your area there will be some, at least some goldenrod, remember some species like moisture.  70 inches is awesome, maybe to awesome, I agree.  However goldenrod is a prolific plant producing lots of both nectar and pollen as you probably already know.

Have you noticed bees bringing in pollen lately???  I would say in my area, N Arkansas, the fall flow has started, judging by my bees packing pollen.

I really have not worked my bees in a couple of weeks. I left them a full super of honey this year for a variety of reason's but the two main being wth all the rain I was worried about foraging and just general life business got in the way some also. Things have slowed a bit so I was hoping to get something of a small fall honey crop. Spring was a good spring for us.
THE COFFEE HOUSE ((( SOCIAL - ROOM ))) / Re: DT's reticence
« Last post by bwallace23350 on Today at 09:43:43 am »
Both are bad and should be labeled as such. Nazis and KKK are just worse

Depends on what you are talking about.  If you are talking about ideology, you might be able to make that argument.  If you are talking about violent behavior, then no.  When is the last time you heard about violent behavior from the KKK as a group.  It's been decades.  Antifa and their friends the anarchists are consistently violent. 

There is no law against distasteful ideology.  In fact, it is protected as long as it remains ideology and not action.  For instance, an Imam can go on all day about how he hates Christians and America right up to the point where he suggests or instigates action against those groups.  Rev Wright was another good example.  His ideology was pretty horrible to just about everyone but the Obama family, but he and they were entitled to it.

Antifa and their friends are far left, some even as far left as communists, but they are free to believe as they wish.  What they are not free to do, and what they have consistently done, is behave violently.  They do not have the right to attack those with whom they disagree. 

What is interesting is that Antifa and the anarchists often show up and behave in the same way, but in theory, they should be opposed to each other.  They seem not to be.

I do agree hateful ideology should not be outlawed. Only light can defeat darkness and we need their hatefulness exposed to the light.
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