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Good to clarify thanks.
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GENERAL BEEKEEPING - MAIN POSTING FORUM. / Re: Bee genetics
« Last post by eltalia on Today at 03:02:03 am »

Here in the northern US the biggest selective pressures are winter and Varroa.

Granted Michael... and therein lies a scientific approach to restoring
ye days of olde for the Americas - ban the beekeeper :-))
Like, put some thought to campaigning for the removal of ALL managed Apis
for say 3 years (?) with a restocking program to begin then, using
only the local mongrels with transport across borders being highly selective.
Within 10 years you guys would be back where y'all were prior to '87..!
And just think of the global good a pulsating import market for honey
the USA could create..?.. win win, hey ;-)))

Bill
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@omnimirage sayed; "If the venom does run out so quickly, then it wouldn't be worth trying to remove it if it takes for example more than half a minute."

The muscles around the sacs can be seen pumping with the naked eye - or at least back when one could - and
that time has never been counted by myself, but from tissue reactive within some body zones I'd say at least
60seconds, maybe as much as 180.

This guy did some work I lean to agreeing with, mainly because of his venom container selection. The pain
levels charted are also pretty close to my own experience.
https://peerj.com/articles/338/
"A sting from a honey bee is familiar to many because of its world-wide distribution. The sting can be reliably provoked, and standardized, making it an ideal experimental stimulus."

The point of the exercise I laid out is that there are two stages, the second phase being the crescendo of pain
levels until the venom pumps in whereon swelling occurs, and for many that pain of swelling is greater than
the whole of the initial event, and way more enduring.... days for some folk I have known.
Hence prevention (scraping off) is the path to confidence.

Bill
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GENERAL BEEKEEPING - MAIN POSTING FORUM. / Re: Honey spinning method
« Last post by omnimirage on Today at 01:29:28 am »
I actually already have access to one of those. I also have some scratch uncapping tools; are they effective as well? They both came in a package I bought ages ago but have never known what to do with them.

I thought that the advantage to a radial extractor was that, it can spin both ways, which is needed to empty both sides of the frame. Is this mistaken?
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DOWN UNDER BEEKEEPING / Australian sugar ants
« Last post by omnimirage on Today at 01:25:58 am »
When I first started out beekeeping, my bees were getting mutilated and attacked by bull ants; it was quite a terrifying sight, to see my beloved honeybees setting up a wall formation of guard bees at the hive entrance against this large gang of bullants, who would constantly lash out and pile onto honeybees at any opportunity, seeing a line of ants walking around carrying beeheads and other parts. I quickly built stands and placed legs into sump oil, in order to protect the ants.

Now I build stands for every hive that I have. I've managed to stumble across numerous objects that I've used for makeshift stands and when to the time consuming, expensive route of building some stands as needed. One of these stands is set up at a site where the owner says they get a fair amount of ants there. I've discovered though, that there's no bull ants, there's just these little black sugar ants present. These are but a fraction of the size of the bullants, and don't seem as aggressive.

I've also saw that the oil trap at this site buggered up, the back legs had no oil in them meaning ants could freely walk up the stand, into the hive. However, they have not done so.

I'm left wondering; do I even need to take such protective measures against sugar ants? Can just sitting them off the ground via some bricks, be just as sufficient?
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DOWN UNDER BEEKEEPING / Potential new apiary
« Last post by omnimirage on Today at 01:14:06 am »
I met a lady at a market recently who told me of someone who wanted bees at their property. The information I got was:

1) there's 60 acres of mallee scrub (a form of eucalyptus)

2) there's numerous water sources available

3) it's heritage listed, isolated land

3) it's a 30 minute drive from me

4) the owner was very friendly, likes bees and wants some honey in exchange

To me, the site sounded incredible. I looked up the address on google earth, and was very disappointed and frankly confused with what I saw. The majority of the area was pastureland. There may have been some flowers on shrubs closer to the ground, but there was hardly any lucrative eucalyptus trees. There was two batches of trees in the general area, hardly looked like 60 acres worth, less than a thousand trees. I'm under the impression that 60 acres is a large amount of land, I'm not sure if those two patches of trees was the 60 acres of mallee, maybe when she said "scrub" that included "barren spaces where no trees are growing".

It sounded so promising on the phone, but Google Earth has the site looking so crap, I seriously wonder if it's even worth some petrol and 100 minutes of my time. It looks so bad that, I wonder why the person would even suggest it, maybe she thought those two patches was enough. It's so bad that I'm confused, wondering maybe I've gotten something wrong, maybe I should just check it out because 60 acres sounds like a lot of trees...
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I have a friend that survives on bee stings. She says she leaves it in for 20 minutes. Seems like a very long time for a stinger to be able to keep pumping. She has been doing a sting a day for about 20 years and she is considered an expert in apiary therapy.
I know another woman that has been doing it for 30 years but she never mentioned how long she leaves it in.
Jim
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DOWN UNDER BEEKEEPING / Buying honey distributors
« Last post by omnimirage on Today at 12:25:34 am »
I've been attempting to sell my honey directly to consumers, going to farmers markets to do so. I spent a good 5-9 hours when I do so, and usually make a couple hundred bucks selling honey at $11-13.5 a kilo. It's a lot of time investment for only an average pay off.

I've been told recently by a local beekeeper that it's common for honey distributors to buy honey direct from beekeepers at $9 a kilo. Allegedly, there's no quantity too small, or too large when it comes to selling to them. The idea of saving all that time by simply taking a couple hundred kilos directly to a buyer, to sell all at once at $9 is very appealing and something I want to get into.

Unfortunately, I'm struggling to actually find these businesses. I was told that I can buy some magazine, costs $60 for a yearly subscription and there's a number of advertisements in there from people wishing to buy honey.

Does anyone know of any suppliers, or have any idea of how I could go about finding them? Would I need an ABN number or some sort of official honey supplier bureaucracy thingy in order to sell to such, or might these businesses do cash in hand exchanges?
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GENERAL BEEKEEPING - MAIN POSTING FORUM. / Re: Honey spinning method
« Last post by sawdstmakr on Today at 12:23:41 am »
I recommend you get a serated decapping knife instead of a heated knife. Much cheaper, works well and does not burn the honey.
A radial extractor is much safer than a tangiel (so) extractor.
Very few blowouts with mine.
There is no real advantage in reversing the extractor. It works on centrifugal force. I never care what direction it goes and never try to reverse it.
Jim
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From the beginning I built all my hives from scratch, captured beeswarms for my hives, bought cheap gear off gumtree and buy frames from a local beekeeping supply yard. Took a lot more time, I made a lot of mistakes along the way(darn glue I used ended up not holding up over time and my supers fell apart) but I basically got into beekeeping for very minimal financial investment.
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