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Here in the southeast  U.S. almost all use the rite strain of Bt with great success,   and some farmers will give you a couple of pounds.

As it is your post is looking like being read yet none committing to comment I swing by to
say - having read a great deal of your BMA bio whilst the post reads like a dirge it is
actually a record of some success - considering the bee numbers in pix you have
shown, and assuming those are what you see as worst cases.

Having managed an apiary north of your locale, and set migratory jobs to the south and
south east, I strongly recommend you try again in attracting the interest of a
noncommercial BK of sound experience, in other words a fella/shiela that owns success
over some years... or join a local club working the hill country.

Two things I can point to for your immediate attention.
1. The moisture trip you are having is only because you are looking at the hive as a series
of boxes, and not as a shell for an organism.
The shell has to be integral and has to have airpaths _bees_ manage.
Effectively "one in, one out".  A big "in" is good for the bees can manage that.
2. There exist some mean mothers of ants (and millipedes) in that country.
If it was under my control the hive stands would not be as yours are, firstly, secondly, the
oilbath trap needs to be built around the same lines as those old oilbath air filters on
truck/tractor engines, and use an airgap.
That said, what you have now could be mostly 'fixed' using inverted cones packed with
grease, and monitored during summer months above 38C into a western sun.

In closing, as a general comment I would offer whomsoever led you down the path of
using mediums has done you a huge disservice and likely there is the cause of why many
a BK in Sou'Aussie - or anywhere else in Aussie - would not be able to - or at all keen
to - mentor such a direction.
Retailing honeycomb is an art form... and you do not need to run foundationless mediums
 to produce it.

There it is for what it is. Good luck in your venture/s



thread 0ff

"just spray with bt and move on"
The product is designed for treating a living plant, capable of renewing itself.
Stored drawn frames do not rebuild themselves. Get enough WM in the zone and there
will be tears
Really glad you told me that  :wink:

"honestly I quit reading it."
.. and right there is the true value of your comments now.

I read enough to know it was not a viable solution for the small keeper like me and the OP so why read any futher

just some "straight forward " frank/candid rebuttal follows

.. and right there is the true value of your comments now.

Exactly how I feel about most you post and your arrogance .... Just a frank- candid- rebuttal

Do the maths, I have... inert gas bombs over BT - and the host of other chemical alternatives
has to be a better cost deal and way more effective over wintering than the work required to
keep treating stacks in zones where the natural barrier for WM control is not in place.

Why don't you honestly ask how many folk here on this forum run enough hives for your... whatever it is vs JUST SPRAYING WITH bt

But new concepts carry a natural resistance in a closed loop bee management world.. as
recently noted by more than yours truly :-/

~$20 a pint does 30gallons. Apply whenever

Not sure why you posted this... not even the right strain of bt?

[1]  SC-B on the chore of reading;

Not a chore if I don't want it too be... I just read enough to know I needed to discard for my and most folks use. But I am not making the decision for them... they can. But of course I could have under read the OP post. He may be sitting in Middle Georgia with 2000 haves and needs to get tanks and gas and bubblers etc. Oh wait a minute he did not ask the best for him he ask for the best method.... I get it  :tongue:

No sorry. I am wrong again... he did say "what can I do"

"I am no newbee and sometimes a straight forward answer without
trying to impress..... is impressive"

Never said you were a newbee and neither am I... but I don't thump my chest either unlike some :wink: Oh and by the way I am not new to the forum either. Iv'e seen the like's come and go

sometimes a straight forward answer without trying to impress..... is impressive

Well I think I have been about as straight forward as I can get. Unlike the smoke and screens, and coy answers/comments some blow :shocked: 

Well Tally-Ho-- Cheers--Good Day Mate or whatever it is YA"LL  say  Happy Beekeeping....

errrrm... just some "straight forward [1]" frank/candid rebuttal(?)follows;
[1]  SC-B on the chore of reading;
"I am no newbee and sometimes a straight forward answer without
trying to impress..... is impressive"

I have not figured out all this foot note stuff... but it is impressive ROTFLMAO  :wink:
We should give tax deductions to people who put more CO2 in the atmosphere for the trees and the bees. :)

More CO2 fries the earth ... less freezes it.  I watched a program  on the end of the earth as we know it.  A rouge planet just passes by our solar system (doesn't hit earth) and pulls the earth's orbit elliptical.  The result is the earth would be hot like Venus and cold like Mars in one years time.  CO2 would be boiled away and life would cease to exits.
Another peril I watched is that sun flares would overcome our magnetic field and wipe out every electrical grid on the earth.  Cycle is every 11 years and we are coming up on this event.  The magnetic field of the earth that protects us from these flares is presently weakening.  Another thing about the earth I didn't know is that the north and south poles have flipped before.  Can you imagine how that would affect migration?
Another thing I didn't know is that there are people (thanks to governments) that are watching for these events 24-7.  I wonder if they will tells that we are all going to die in a short period of time?

Does anyone know why higher levels of CO2 encourages a queen to lay?  Is she relaxed and lets loose or is it stress and she thinks she has to produce before she dies?
GENERAL BEEKEEPING - MAIN POSTING FORUM. / Re: Beekeeping with 25 hives
« Last post by Robo on Today at 08:17:11 am »
You can find all his books here -> http://grantgillard.weebly.com/my-books.html


I'm thinking of giving them a 'Mountain Camp' style feed each.
(IE add a kilo of white table sugar on the top board).
The feeding style is simple and has worked for me before.

On the other hand I don't want to give them so much that they think swarming in a month or 2 is a good idea.

What do people think?



I don't think your bees will swarm feeding dry white sugar, they do not store it like syrup they just eat it if they want it.
I feed dry sugar to my bees every year in winter some hives consume it some do not.
they don't swarm from dry sugar feeding.

If you'd like something a little low Tech. Which most Woodworkers can make. This is a jig I would recommend.
Yes, it's a brilliantly simple method.  I made that jig woodwork in two pieces: one being a side and two ends; the other being just one side.  Held together with shock-cord as per video. If you make the ends very slightly under-size, then you can insert shims to cater for (pretty-much unavoidable) variations between manufacturers.  Then, removing those shims makes completed frame extraction so much easier.

A great method.
My bees appear to love paint:

[click the above images to enlarge - this is a new image host I'm trying-out]

This young lady found a nice chewy bit of xylene-based latex paint to take back home as an alternative to tree gum.  Must have been re-decorating, I guess.

I only put 2 tiny holes in the feeder jar lids to minimize swarming. They get a continuous small amount of nectar but they are not able to back fill with it. It just helps feed the brood.

I think that's a good tactic to adopt, Jim - and it's not only the brood which benefit.  One of the problems with 'running on empty' is that bees need fuel in order to find fuel - so a small drip-feed of syrup will also help the foragers to initially 'get out there' in order to help themselves ...
I relocated nine beehives last week, and checked up on them this weekend, in preparation for the upcoming spring weather.

For some reason, almost half the hives had a lot of dead bees in front of it. I also took a weakened, queenless starving hive up there with me, with the intention of merging it with another weak hive, but they all died on the way. Does transportig bees stresss them and cause them to die? It seems like the hives with the most bees, and least space, had the most loses. Is there anything I can reduce loses next time?

I didn't see any queen cells, which surprises me. I figure the warm spring weather will arrive in ten or so days, so I expected to see some. I may have simply missed them. Only one hive had a heavy amount of drones. I wasn't sure what to do with them, as my mentor advised me to kill them but people on these forums have said otherwise; I ended up squishing most of them.

I gave most hives an extra super. Two of the hives proved to be a challenge, as last year, I needed to move my deep nucs into a bigger sized super, but I only had medium sized brood chambers available to me, so I put the deep frames into two medium supers. They of course built a lot of comb underneath, I discarded most and strapped the brood to frames with rubber bands. I'm not sure what I'm going to do with my deep nucs anymore; I'm transitioning to all mediums. I guess I'll try to fill them with bees and sell them.

I wasn't sure if one of the hives should have had the extra super on top. They have a fair amount of space, there's a few frames that haven't been used and a few frames were somewhat low on honey, but spring is approaching and I'm not sure what the flow will be like soon.

I set up two trap hives. The hives are on stands, with feet sitting in a container with a little bit of vegetable oil in it. I've read that such can be used to stop ants, but I'm unsure how effective it'll be. I used to use sump oil for this purpose, but am concerned about the environmental impact of such as it'll spill when it rains, and I figure it'd be disrespectful to the farmer who I have the hives at, to even suggest using such. I guess I'll need to top up the containers when using vegetable oil; I didn't have to with sump oil. I used only a very little amount covering the bottoms, I'm not sure if I even used enough and it cost me a bit of money to do, about $12 in oil (which is the cheapest homebrand oil that I could find and was on half price, I wouldn't consistently bee able to purchase it for this price). I did wonder if maybe I could exchange honey for used vegetable oil from a local fish and chips shop, as I figure used vegetable oil would be just as good. I'm not exactly sure how I'd approach them for such or if it's even a good idea. I also read that mineral oil can perform the same function as vegetable oil, and that it's supposed to be very cheap, but it was enormously expensive when looking for prices online; I haven't checked local hardware stores for it, it may be cheap there.

A few of the hives had a bit of moisture on the top of them. I've very concerned about this, simply because I've had this issue in the past and I haven't ever really been able to work out how to effectively deal with it. The hives that had the most moisture, had the most buckled lid; I'm not sure if water got in there, causing it to buckle with time, or if the water came in from elsewhere.

I'm not sure when I should check the hives again, but I figure in about a months's time would be good.

I took a couple photos:

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