Author Topic: Which Extractor? (Read 5251 times)

Caribou · « **on:** August 04, 2016, 02:30:34 pm »

I have made it through my first season. I had a ton of fun and I want to get more involved. My next big consideration is an extractor. I want a motorized extractor as I want more hives than I am willing to spin by hand.

I am currently looking at the Lyson W230 8/20 Frame and the Mann Lake 9/18 Frame.

Any comments on these or others would be appreciated.

D Coates · « **Reply #1 on:** August 04, 2016, 03:21:52 pm »

Personally I prefer the direct drive of the ML. It's $350 more that the Lyson but it's also free freight. Not sure of that includes AK though. The Lyson is Polish made and the ML is Italian made. I don't think you'll go wrong with either.

Caribou · « **Reply #2 on:** August 04, 2016, 03:35:30 pm »

Thanks for the input DC. Not only does ML not ship free to Alaska but they don't even want to give you a break on the freight. AK residents pay 100% of the freight and ML keeps as extra profit the money they had set aside for freight.

BeeMaster2 · « **Reply #3 on:** August 04, 2016, 06:45:31 pm »

I have the ML and I really like.
Jim

GSF · « **Reply #4 on:** August 05, 2016, 08:25:21 am »

I have the mann lake 18/9. Is there any place to go to look at the yearly maintenance that should be done?

Jim134 · « **Reply #5 on:** August 05, 2016, 08:42:36 am »

My first choice for an extracted would be a Maxant made in the USA Ayer Massachusetts. My second choice would be Lyson made in Poland distributed by Betterbee New York in the USA .

BEE HAPPY Jim 134 :)

BeeMaster2 · « **Reply #6 on:** August 05, 2016, 12:36:36 pm »

Quote from: GSF on August 05, 2016, 08:25:21 am

I have the mann lake 18/9. Is there any place to go to look at the yearly maintenance that should be done?

My Mann Lake 9/18 is almost all stainless steal. The only real maintenance needed is to make sure the bearing at the bottom of the drum is greased with food grade grease and check on the level of the basket. If the basket loosens it can drop down to the point that the basket runs in the honey and bogs it down. If this happens you just loosen the set screws, raise it up and reset the set screws. The motor is designed to last for many many years.
Jim

Michael Bush · « **Reply #7 on:** August 05, 2016, 10:43:27 pm »

I have the Mann Lake 9/18 motorized. I've never regretted it.

Caribou · « **Reply #8 on:** August 06, 2016, 12:45:55 am »

Thanks guys, I settled on a ML 9/18 that I found locally. Being here it solves the freight problems and the price is good. Your input was both valuable and appreciated.

BeeMaster2 · « **Reply #9 on:** August 06, 2016, 01:06:05 am »

Caribou,
One thing that I did with my ML extractor was remove the super magnets from an old hard drive, be careful with them and keep them apart-I have received a few blood blisters when they snapped together on my fingers, and glued one on the lid where when it is open, the magnet hold the lid up. I put the other one on the leg and use it to hold the bearing and leg screws.
The reason I put the bearing on the magnet is because I take the motor and basket off of the drum and use the drum as a settelling tank. It holds 500 pounds of honey. Clean it out and don't forget to clean out the grease and remove the bearing, plug it on the magnet. Be sure to get some food grade grease for when you put it back together
Put your honey in it, cover it with plastic and let it sit for a week, then bottle your jars right from the valve.
Jim

GSF · « **Reply #10 on:** August 08, 2016, 09:16:00 am »

If the basket loosens it can drop down to the point that the basket runs in the honey and bogs it down.

From what I've heard this will take life off of the motor as well.

Jim134 · « **Reply #11 on:** August 08, 2016, 10:29:42 am »

I wonder why when I am extracting I would not keep the honey open gate open??. Unless l were changing a bucket.

BEE HAPPY Jim 134

BeeMaster2 · « **Reply #12 on:** August 08, 2016, 12:32:35 pm »

Quote from: GSF on August 08, 2016, 09:16:00 am

If the basket loosens it can drop down to the point that the basket runs in the honey and bogs it down.

From what I've heard this will take life off of the motor as well.

It happened to my extractor. Took a while to figure out what had happened. The motor survived quite well. It really slows it down a lot.
Jim

BeeMaster2 · « **Reply #13 on:** August 08, 2016, 12:35:50 pm »

Quote from: Jim 134 on August 08, 2016, 10:29:42 am

I wonder why when I am extracting I would not keep the honey open gate open??. Unless l were changing a bucket.

BEE HAPPY Jim 134

When the basket dropped, it did not hit the bottom of the drum but it did reach the honey level even with the gate open. The gate is on the side of the drum and because of the nut and threads, the opening is raised off the bottom.
Jim

Jim134 · « **Reply #14 on:** August 08, 2016, 03:21:37 pm »

Quote from: sawdstmakr on August 08, 2016, 12:35:50 pm

Quote from: Jim 134 on August 08, 2016, 10:29:42 am
I wonder why when I am extracting I would not keep the honey open gate open??. Unless l were changing a bucket.

BEE HAPPY Jim 134
When the basket dropped, it did not hit the bottom of the drum but it did reach the honey level even with the gate open. The gate is on the side of the drum and because of the nut and threads, the opening is raised off the bottom.
Jim

It looks like I'm not understanding the setup. I know on a Maxant basket rides on a ball bearing. The scenario describing would be impossible. Unless the honey gate was closed.

BEE HAPPY Jim 134

BeeMaster2 · « **Reply #15 on:** August 08, 2016, 09:40:30 pm »

Jim,
The basket assembly is not welded to the shaft. It has set screws that allow you to adjust it up or down. Mine slid down to the point that the bottom ring was in the honey.
Jim

Jim134 · « **Reply #16 on:** August 08, 2016, 11:56:13 pm »

Quote from: sawdstmakr on August 08, 2016, 09:40:30 pm

Jim,
The basket assembly is not welded to the shaft. It has set screws that allow you to adjust it up or down. Mine slid down to the point that the bottom ring was in the honey.
Jim

Thank you now I see why. This may be one of the reasons why Maxant is more expensive.

BEE HAPPY Jim 134

sc-bee · « **Reply #17 on:** August 09, 2016, 12:17:24 am »

So pros and cons of the Mann Lake 18-9 And the Maxant 20F Semi Pro ? Help me out. Am I missing something, as I too may buy soon...

-The cost of the Maxant is about $250 or so more.
-You have to purchase the legs separate with the Maxant.
-The bottom of the Maxant in conical so this means more honey will drain to the bottom?
-I see the Maxant is a heavier gauge but the Mann lake is still pretty rugged.

Jim134 · « **Reply #18 on:** August 09, 2016, 12:51:28 am »

If you're shopping for price by a Chinese one. It's been my experience quality is always paid off.

BEE HAPPY Jim 134

sc-bee · « **Reply #19 on:** August 09, 2016, 01:32:40 am »

Quote from: Jim 134 on August 09, 2016, 12:51:28 am

If you're shopping for price by a Chinese one. It's been my experience quality is always paid off.

BEE HAPPY Jim 134

Not shopping for price when it is $250 difference over how many years use. Just wanted some real feedback. Why one over the other...other than made in USA and supporting a homegrown company. Which in itself could be a reason..