Assembling frames without a framing jig

[Lesgold]

Hi Folks,
I was wondering if there are any of you out there who assemble frames without using a standard framing jig. When I first started beekeeping, I used to use a jig all the time but many years ago I met a guy who used a different method where no real jig was required and I decided to try his technique. Have not used a jig since then. In saying that, I only make small numbers of frames at a time (normally 20 to 100 frames) It would be interesting to hear and see how you all make frames as I?m sure that there will be a whole bunch of approaches to this task.

[Ben Framed]

Les I do use a jig. This is what I learned from Beeman Pierre back when I first started, except I made my jig to accommodate 10 frames instead.

Phillip

https://youtu.be/kptalQBiBRk?si=UuerkTa50koihSNk

[Lesgold]

Hi Phillip,

That?s pretty much the way that I used to make my frames. The jig used to work quite well. Adding the extra staple into the top bar improves the strength of the joint. There is still weakness in the bottom bar joint but this rarely causes issues unless frames are propolised together over the winter months.

[The15thMember]

I have never owned a frame jig, and like you, Les, I'm not assembling many frames at one time.  So I just build mine by hand, one at a time.  I use 1 in. nails and Titebond III glue.  I put 2 nails in the top bar, 2 nails in the bottom bar, and 1 nail under each ear.  Then I nail in my wedges sideways for a starter strip using 3 wedge nails, and I'm good to go.   

[Lesgold]

Sweet. Your frames should be quite strong. When I did use a framing jig, it used to annoy me putting nails into the end grain of timber. 2 nails would improve the holding power, especially if skewed. Titebond 3 holds well (even after frames are steam cleaned) I used to add extra nails to the sides of the end bars which also improved strength. This did add some extra construction time but very few frames had issues. The narrow crowned stapler has been the biggest time saver of all. Reagan, your top bars are a different design to what we use here in Australia. I can see a big advantage in your situation where you run foundationless frames. I would love to use them as they would be a real time saver.

[Terri Yaki]

What's the purpose of the nails under the ears?

[BeeMaster2]

Les,
I started out not using a jig. Then during inspections I figured out why I should use a jig. The frames were glued together properly and would not come apart but the bottom of the frames were not all square. When they are not square, one side has more than bee space and the other side does not have bee space. The bees quickly correct this and the frames are glued and waxed into the box making it harder to remove them and kills bees that get squashed. The jig holds the frames square until the glue is set enough to stop it from moving. I was making a hundred frames at a time so having a jig made sure they were all correct.
You can do the same by inspecting every one right after you nail them.
Jim Altmiller

[Lesgold]

I agree with you Jim. When frames are not square or have twist or wind, they can be problematic. The first frames that I made when I started beekeeping, were made without a jig and they took a bit of time and care to get right. When I built a jig, the accuracy of the finished product was consistently quite good. The method that I use now works well for me and gives me a slightly stronger frame that is flat and perfectly square. I reckon I?m also saving a bit of time compared to the old jig method. The beekeeper who showed me the technique had just started assembling 1000 frames for some of his hives at the time I met him. It was a pleasure watching someone work with speed and skill. 

[BeeMaster2]

Les,
My frame jigs are just shallow hive boxes or cut down old medium boxes with 2-5/16 inch strips of wood placed on the long side of the box. I glue 10 frames together then slide them into the jig and nail the top then turn the whole thing over and nail the bottom. I then set it aside and use a second jig. By the time I finish the second one the first one is set enough to take the frames out and start over.
Jim Altmiller

[Lesgold]

The jig I made years ago was essentially the same as what you are using except I made it from scratch. It worked quite well. The biggest disappointment was the variation in frame dimensions between the different manufacturers. This meant that I had to tweak the jig to suit the frames. Eventually I learnt my lesson and stayed with one brand of frames.  I used to machine my own frames but it was a time consuming process that eventually had to be given away as it was drawing me away from the bees.

[BeeMaster2]

Les,
I haven't tried it yet but I think the Falcon 2 would bee great at making the frame sides. It can't make the tops and bottoms but for me the sides were more of a pain to make.
Jim Altmiller

[Michael Bush]

I was probably 20 years in when I bought a jig from Walter T. Kelly.  I've never regretted it nor have I put a frame together without a jig since.

[Lesgold]

I have made frames on the laser for the comb honey frame that I designed. It cuts end bars well. The top and bottom bars had to be cut on the diagonal to get the length required and the top bars could only be cut to about 12mm thick. The beauty about using the laser was that you could adjust the fit of the joint work.

If I get some time in the next few days, I?ll make up a few frames and photograph the technique that I use. It may not suit many people but it works for me and in my situation, is more efficient than using the standard jig.

[Lesgold]

Just finished making a few frames for the upcoming season so it was a good opportunity to photograph the process. A narrow crown stapler and Titebond 3 is used to secure joint work. Normally, ten end bars are picked up at a time and held firmly with one hand. If I twist my hand, I can gain a visual look at either top bar or bottom bar bridle joints.

[Lesgold]

Adhesive is added to the joints with emphasis being placed on the shoulders of the bridles. This is where the majority of the glue strength is obtained. A quick bead of glue is also added to the bottom of the bridle. The end bars are then placed on the bench and each frame is assembled one at a time.  When one frame is pushed together, it is placed onto a block of wood that allows it to be held square and without any twist or wind. A staple is then placed into each corner. It is then flipped over and 4 more staples are then placed into that side. The process is then repeated with the remaining four frames. Each set of 5 frames takes just a few minutes to assemble. As I steam all old frames to recover wax, a strong joint is needed to cope with the partial breakdown of the adhesive that occurs during this operation.