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Author Topic: Changing entrance size and bottom board.  (Read 1882 times)

Offline Skeggley

  • House Bee
  • **
  • Posts: 115
Re: Changing entrance size and bottom board.
« Reply #20 on: January 11, 2018, 07:20:27 pm »
Yes you are correct and I was wrong, how embarrassing, school has failed me!
Fancy being taught the metric system by an American! (And Google)

Offline Acebird

  • Galactic Bee
  • ******
  • Posts: 5778
  • Gender: Male
  • Practicing non intervention beekeeping
Re: Changing entrance size and bottom board.
« Reply #21 on: January 11, 2018, 10:06:00 pm »
It has nothing to do with the metric system.  Any system will work.  I agree the metric system is easier.  It takes a bigger man to admit he is wrong.  I have been there.  Trust me, it will make you stronger. :smile:
Brian Cardinal
Just do it

Offline eltalia

  • Queen Bee
  • ****
  • Posts: 1170
Re: Changing entrance size and bottom board.
« Reply #22 on: January 16, 2018, 05:29:47 am »

I'm going to swap the bottom board as suggested. The removed one wont be wasted. I hope I haven't added the super too early. I did so as 7 of the brood box frames were full. Two frames had just honey alone. The mat between lid and top of frames was also had a lot of wax on it. I don't want to be opening hive too frequently so provided a bit more room. Our garden is quite extensive with flowers. Maybe this has helped fill the lower frames quickly.


Skeggley has it spoton with when to add a super onto a broodchamber (box)... many are
way too keen to expand and so in going early often end up in bothers which can be read
 anywhere within forums.
For next time in building your own?
Leave the entrance at full width with an adjustable plate closure, I use
a 20mm aluminum strip slotted at each end, most times. There are occasions you require
 the full width for the bees and also your own housekeeping. Size of entrance is a dynamic
which does require management so fixing absolutes is a mistake.
Also, moreso than which paint where, make sure all joints and raw timber
faces are well sealed - I use a quality gap sealer - as these are the zones
pests and weather attack first. To be very clear... that applies internally and externally.
As to the actual paint?
Used them all over many a box, wayback loaded with lead!
Today I am using a "one coat fits all" exterior acrylic in a rather heavy texture. I do not
paint new boxes internally, and do paint any preloved boxes internally after copius work
screwing and sealing the woodwork.

All that to only ask what is this "mat" you 'speak' of between frames and lid.
And which style of lid, the migratory or the telescopic?