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It is difficult to discuss here because all kind of beeholding styles are soon in one intangible mesh.
I tell what I have learned during 45 years.
My menthor had worked in Canada and he have studied beekeeping systems of USA and Canada. He got for excample breeding queens from Canada. I omitted from him the best methods what were in use in Finland in those days.
First I made very good traditional, "long hive" insulated hives. It took in 20 frames in same level.
My menthor said that hive type is out of date and I burned then after 2 years usage. It was year 1963 when I started at the age of 15.
I made langstroth hives according USA blue prints. They were 30 mm thick solid wood.
Years went and I add 10 mm water broof insulation board over wintering boxes and need of winter food dropped 30%. No more dead hives for lack of food.
But that insulation board kept moisture inside hive construction and boxes start to rotten veary fast. I had to make something to save my boxes for 20 hives.
I tried polyplast hives first in the year 1987. When I looked next summer, I found that all polyplast hives were bigger that my insulation board hives. They brought so much honey that they paid those expencive boxes in one summer. Boxes had made in Danmark (Nacca) and they were really expencive 20 years ago. But boxes were good quality and they are still in fine condition.
Hive material forced to formulate bottom boards in another way because all condensation water went down to bottom. In wooden hives it soaked into wood.
When I migrated my hives, light stryfoam hives were exelent to handle. It saved my back. I use my old wooden box as honey boxes.
When we use polyhives, we need not any other insulations or tar papers. I have used tar paper onec in the year 1965 may be? But I use winter covers in front of hive for snow and wind and birds.
I wintered my hives under snow 20 years but when our snow cover become thinner, I had not snow to cover hives. I noticed that bees in better condition without snow which added too much moisture in hives.
I lost 60% of my hives 5 years ago. I took all my knowledge into use to rise upp my bee yard.
It was April and night temperatures were -8C and by day it was +2C. I wnet to petty shop and bought different kinds of terrarium heaters to see, what happens. Results were marvellous. I found that when I give pollen patty and heat hives in spring, tyhey build up were 3 times faster than with natural way.
One early June I took my 4 best hives to forest and others I kept in my yard with electrict heating. When rape stared to bloom, I found that every sigle colony was passed the best hives with the aid of heating. Since then I have found how inportand is insulated hives and warm hive in spring build up.
If I want early summer yield, I need to start hives with pollen patty 2 months earlier. Only 2 box hives are able to develope into condition of surpluss foraging. one box hives need 2 weeks extra to get foragiong bees enough.
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I have tried screened bottoms but results were awfull compared with my solid bottom boars. It do not work in windy sites and do not help in spring build up.
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WHAT IS COLD WEATHER AND RADIATION OF SUN
I live on the level of Alaska Anchorage. When we have cold, sun does not help hives. Sun is not shining when it is rain, Sun does nit shine at night.
When my hives need early build upp in April, nights may be -6C and days +5. In May days may be +15 and night -2C.
When it rains, days are +5C and nights +2C.
Perhaps hives absorb some heat from sun in these condition but walls are cold before sun has gone behind the forest.
Hive has +32C temperature and nights cold limits the brood area in May. I have noticed it when I too heating into use.
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THE END: It is very easy to get hive alive over winter, but to get fast spring build up needs warm, insulated hives.
We have normally one yield month, but when I fasten spring build up, I add my yield season to early June.
Sunny site is essential to vivil life of bees and sun does not hel at night and during cloudy days.
Tar papers do not hepl here hives. If it keep beekeper's mind calm, it is still worth of using.
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Specially omitted to Brian: I have tried many things during my life, more than you Brian. Surely. I have an nature of strong renewer. But if I feel that something is stupid, I do not try it to see how stupid it is. But still you are right. You have such an nature.
We have saying " The Finnish does not believe before he tries". And it is true. I trye at least 5 times if I do not succeed.
When I have made my experiments, a normal man gives up much sooner than I. I want to see to bottom. It makes life interesting
I am wanderer of my own path Brian. No sayings make me give up if I want something and I notice that it is worth trying.
But I do not follw all fool thing what others tell me. That is not brain using".
But I have other life too. My bekeping has limited my wive's and 3 son's life too much. Actually I have no time to ry "natural cells".
Good queen, big hives, good pastures, sell much honey - I have enough to do with that concept.
45 years beekeeping - it is not any more interesting. It is against my nature. :roll:
Topic: My experiences in insulating and heat economy of hives (Read 3381 times)