Galvanised extractor

[lomatia]

I have two Pender extractors ..... these Australian-made machines were the standard in Oz for many years and probably still are!!
Unfortunately they are galvanized ... both the drum and the reversible baskets. One has four baskets so would be very useful.
If I get them cleaned up can I safely have them sprayed (food grade paint) .... the baskets would be the problem. I'm not sure that equipment satisfies the food standards both in Oz and overseas. What do beeks overseas do with this gear?

[OldMech]

Your answer is here;

    http://www.brushymountainbeefarm.com/Camcote-1qt/productinfo/615/


   I have an earlier AI Root 24 frame radial extractor.. galvanized tub with lead seams, cast and steel basket. It is a BEAST and works better than any extractor I have ever borrowed or used or even seen used, barring the BIG commercial extractors.
   Coat as prescribed with Camcoat and the honey will never touch any of the galvanized surfaces.

[lomatia]

Thanks OldMech. I guess I was a bit lazy in not doing a search!!!!

[rwlaw]

Ya, the camcoat works great. Takes forever to stiffen up, but it doesn't chip like paint does.

[OldMech]

Yes it does take a long time to dry between coats..

[Wombat2]

What about a trip to the powder coaters ?  - sand blasted, primed and coated  (old Federation single garden gate = $75,  1200x 700 Frame from 50x 5 steel for my 9 frame radial extractor under construction =$100) Pretty reasonable for a backed enamel finish.

[beehappy1950]

If you are not storing honey in one of these galvanized extractors I see no reason even if the galvanized surface is worn off in places to worry about coating it. The galvanizing is just there to keep it from rusting. And unless you leave honey in it for days, it shouldnt rust. That extractor has probably been used for years without painting and Grandma and Grandpa are still living in most cases.

[OldMech]

If you are not storing honey in one of these galvanized extractors I see no reason even if the galvanized surface is worn off in places to worry about coating it. The galvanizing is just there to keep it from rusting. And unless you leave honey in it for days, it shouldnt rust. That extractor has probably been used for years without painting and Grandma and Grandpa are still living in most cases.

  Your right. In most cases the older galvanized extractor with LEAD sealed seems will work just fine and cause you no harm.. the issue comes in when you must let the honey sit.. IE you get distracted or interrupted..  AND there will be a problem if you wish to sell your honey. There is no state I am aware of that would allow you to get by with exposed lead coming into contact with a food product.

[beehappy1950]

Thats probably right. But if you sell much honey you probably would want a big stainless one anyway.

[OldMech]

I sell honey... and I can tell you from first hand experience that he "NEW" stainless extractors are garbage compared to the old AI root extractor I have/use. It is heavy and sturdy. It is a joy to use in comparison. I dont have to balance the beast nearly as carefully as I do the new extractors.  Easy to replace bearings and even the motor that runs it. Unless I end up with more than 50 production hives I will likely never replace it.  Finding that old extractor was like finding a pot pf gold under a rainbow.

[beehappy1950]

I have never had the opportunity to run the old extractors. I bought an 18/9 one from Mannlake. It does wobble all over the place. I even have it bolted to a sheet of plywood and you can stand on the edges. But it will wobble. I did buy a 20 volt dewalt drill that I power it with but will work on something better yet. But I suppose getting a heavy one set up to new standards would be best. Harold      God Bless

[Michael Bush]

It helps a lot to try to match combs across from each other when loading an extractor.  Combs with pollen in them should be opposite each other.  Combs that are half full should be opposite each other.  Combs that are really heavy should be opposite each other.  Try to load it in pairs that are across from each other and have similar weights at the start and will have similar weights at the finish.