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GENERAL BEEKEEPING - MAIN POSTING FORUM. / Re: Swarm Catching
« Last post by Terri Yaki on Today at 03:53:40 pm »
Now there's about three times as many bees checking out the trap as any other time they were out there. It's like Alfred Hitchcock's 'The Birds', except it's bees. They hit it hard about 1300 and haven't let up. I don't think they moved in as of yet but it almost looks like it the way they're going in and out. I have my fingers crossed.
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GENERAL BEEKEEPING - MAIN POSTING FORUM. / Re: Swarm Catching
« Last post by FatherMichael on Today at 01:29:39 pm »
Been considering adding a game camera to my bee yard to see what kind of animal chews on my hives.  Now I have another reason to add one - the Russian scion strategy.

The solar cellular cameras don't cost that much, plus $20 a month for the T-mobile cellular service.

Considering how much I have lost in swarms and paying for nucs and trips to San Antonio ...
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I agree with Kathy wholeheartedly.  Learning your local flows and understanding them in terms of your goals is critical to learning to manage bees, especially if you'd like to not feed sugar.  It's something that takes a few years of trial and error.  I'm in my 6th spring beekeeping and every year there seems to be one colony that I have mismanaged or has had some problem and needs sugar, but with more experience I'm hoping to make that a rarer occurrence. 
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GENERAL BEEKEEPING - MAIN POSTING FORUM. / Re: Swarm Catching
« Last post by Terri Yaki on Today at 12:20:29 pm »
I put a russian scion out yesterday so I'll see what that does. I didn't get too fancy with it, just a board with wax and lemongrass oil on it. I have a camera on it too so I don't have to go out there to check on it.
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What I found helpful is to be familiar with what is blooming in my area and when.  A short period of feeding sugar water until the bees find natural sources will not hurt them.  It only takes them a few days to orient on their hive and then go out and find food.  If you have lots of things blooming around you,  you shouldn't need to feed for long.

There are periods of time here when there's little for them to collect and it's important to keep a close eye on what they have stored.

You also need to figure out whether or not you want honey.  Some people just keep bees for pollination and pleasure.  If you want to gather honey, your management toward buildup might be different.

You helped harvest some honey so you have a mentor or someone who can help you evaluate the food possibilities for your area?
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THE SPORTS BAR / Closest Finish Ever
« Last post by The15thMember on Today at 11:45:35 am »
Yesterday's NASCAR race at Kansas was the closest finish ever in the history of the sport, a .001 margin of victory.  Even the distance from 1st to 4th would have set a track record for closest finish.   
https://www.espn.com/racing/story/_/id/40091399/kyle-larson-wins-kansas-closest-cup-series-finish-ever

Here is the official photo (not sure why the ESPN story didn't feature it). 
https://twitter.com/NASCAR/status/1787299330707144970?ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw%7Ctwcamp%5Etweetembed%7Ctwterm%5E1787299330707144970%7Ctwgr%5E05a566d3ad14aaa372abf1b9d844bcedd195a4bc%7Ctwcon%5Es1_&ref_url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.jayski.com%2F
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Thanks so much for your reply! Yes, I was most interested in what to supplement bees' foraging with when getting a new colony established since honey stores will be empty (first hive!), and then of course it's also important to think ahead to potential food shortages for them as well. I'm fortunate enough to have about 100 jars of quality honey I helped to harvest myself from healthy bees last summer, so although it's not still capped in a frame I do believe it's a safe source of nutrition.
There is nothing wrong with feeding honey from a jar, I've done it myself several times, just so long as you can trust the source and it's not too cold.  I just put one of my feeder lids that has holes punched in it on the jar, turn it upside down over the inner cover, and away we go.  With a setup like mine though, if the ambient temperature is low, then the honey will be cold since it's not in with the bees, and they will refuse to take it because it would lower their body temperature.  But for helping a new colony build up in the spring, that shouldn't be a problem.   
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GENERAL BEEKEEPING - MAIN POSTING FORUM. / Re: Swarm Catching
« Last post by FatherMichael on Today at 10:41:02 am »
Swarming is a two step process.  First the swarm bivouacs and second moves to the new location.  There's nothing wrong with keeping a swarm trap in your yard but a russian scion is even better because you're missing the first step with a trap.  Or at least double the chances of catching the swarm before they move on.  You can catch them easier on a scion attached to a rope and lower them to a hive body.  Im not perfect but can head off most swarms before they happen.  When I see a monster swarm with a great queen in a tree I failed.  Best practices are the responsible thing to do so your bees dont become someone else's problem.  Ive spent a lot of time rearing great queens and bees, I dont want some guy down the road killing them because they are going into his attic, barn, or siding.

Wish I had known about this before now.  Thanks for the great tip!
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Thanks so much for your reply! Yes, I was most interested in what to supplement bees' foraging with when getting a new colony established since honey stores will be empty (first hive!), and then of course it's also important to think ahead to potential food shortages for them as well. I'm fortunate enough to have about 100 jars of quality honey I helped to harvest myself from healthy bees last summer, so although it's not still capped in a frame I do believe it's a safe source of nutrition.

I was just reading that raw sugars contain elements that are undigestible to bees, so it's best to stick with white pure cane sugar (organic, if possible) in an ideal world. I'm not sure if anyone here can corroborate that or offer more insight into types of sugars when needed, but this is already very helpful.
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