As some of you already know, I make all my own woodwork including frames (except those for sale) from pallet wood - which I've found to vary enormously: much of it is pine of various types, but there's quite often a lot of white wood also to be found.
I wouldn't dream of making pukka Hoffman/foundation-style frames - as there's no way a DIY-er could ever compete with the mass-production methods used to make those - but simple foundationless frames are very easy and cheap enough (almost free) to make.
I've made these with side-bars ranging from 20 to 25mm, and I've never once seen propolis in-between gaps at the sides. The top gap sometimes sees a little creative waxwork, but never the sides or bottom. To achieve spacing, I've gradually moved over to using small (3mm x 25mm) woodscrews fixed into the frame top bar, just outside of the comb field, so that the frames can still be pulled directly upwards (with the others still in place) without causing damage to the combs.
I've found that there are three advantages in using screws for spacing instead of conventional Hoffman side-bars. Firstly, the frame spacing itself can easily be adjusted. UK Hoffman frames are purchased with a compromise 35mm spacing, whereas I've found that 34mm suits my bees better, and I might even further reduce that a little over time. The second advantage is that woodscrew heads have a much smaller contact area than that presented by Hoffman side-bars, and I can't remember ever squashing a bee when closing-up frames after an inspection.
Thirdly, there is markedly less propolis to deal with. In the past, one of the banes of my life has been scraping-off propolis from Hoffman side-bars in the full knowledge that it'll be replaced just as soon as the frame is returned to the hive. And if you don't scrape it off, then the frame spacing gradually widens, with all the problems that this creates: in short, it's a barmy system - but one that we've all grown up with, and so tend not to object to using.
LJ