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Author Topic: Thickness planer suggestions  (Read 8262 times)

Offline divemaster1963

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Re: Thickness planer suggestions
« Reply #20 on: September 10, 2017, 10:31:22 pm »
no problem just let me know when the check is in the mail. :wink:

and no. i don't have any more room in the dog house  only enough for me and the dog. ( maybe she let me back in one day. :wink:

Offline Fusion_power

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Re: Thickness planer suggestions
« Reply #21 on: September 15, 2017, 09:41:45 pm »
I put new knives on the planer today.  They are cutting just a tad better than the old blades.  Shavings are up to 4 inches long vs 3 with the old blades.  Cutting speed and smoothness of cut are just a fraction better.  I still have to run each board through 3 or 4 times per side to get a smooth finish and I still have to cut each board down on the tablesaw so it will fit through the planer.  All in all, it is worth having the new blades but this is still a low end tool.  I'll keep an eye out for a floor standing planer that cuts a bit wider.
47 years beekeeping, running about 20 colonies in square Dadant hives.

Offline gww

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Re: Thickness planer suggestions
« Reply #22 on: September 15, 2017, 10:02:23 pm »
fusion
Thanks for the update.
gww

Offline Acebird

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Re: Thickness planer suggestions
« Reply #23 on: September 16, 2017, 08:40:18 am »
Shavings are up to 4 inches long vs 3 with the old blades.

How is this possible?  What depth of cut are you trying to take?
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Offline Acebird

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Re: Thickness planer suggestions
« Reply #24 on: September 16, 2017, 09:00:32 am »
Ace
Here might be what I was referring to, maby not.

http://www.forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,94886.msg1466087.html#msg1466087

This machine is obviously not meant for finish grade pine.  Although who needs finished pine for bee hives"  Are there any pressure adjusting screws on these feed rollers?  The outfeed roller can be coated with sand paper or plumber's abrasive tape.  If it doesn't want to stick you might be able to use a floor sanding tube between the roll and the wood.  The only way to get rid of the infeed roller marks is to lighten the pressure and make the final pass deeper than the marks.
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Offline BeeMaster2

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Re: Thickness planer suggestions
« Reply #25 on: September 16, 2017, 09:15:09 am »
Marks are not from the infeed rollers. It is the out feed rollers that make the marks. One thing that I have not seen mentioned is if the discharge shoot is clogged or does not allow the shavings to escape, they end up under the rollers and cause the markings. If your machine is connected to a vacuum, the exhaust shoot may be blocked. I would open the planer cover after plaining a few boards and see if it has clogged areas.
Jim
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Offline Acebird

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Re: Thickness planer suggestions
« Reply #26 on: September 16, 2017, 09:52:18 am »
Jim this is the link that gww posted:
http://www.forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,94886.msg1466087.html#msg1466087
Read "teakwood" post.  He mentions marks from the infeed roller which is related to depth of cut.
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Offline Fusion_power

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Re: Thickness planer suggestions
« Reply #27 on: September 16, 2017, 02:33:18 pm »
Quote
How is this possible?  What depth of cut are you trying to take?
I am cutting 3 times per side to get a smooth surface with each cut about 1/64 of an inch.  This removes just enough material to get the feed rollers to engage and the cutter head to take off a layer of wood.  I can cut about twice this depth, but it causes feed problems.  I can cut shallower, but it takes more passes through the planer to remove all of the rough cut surface.  Three times through per side seems to be a good balance of smooth feeding, smooth cutting, and minimum number of passes through the planer.
47 years beekeeping, running about 20 colonies in square Dadant hives.

Offline Acebird

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Re: Thickness planer suggestions
« Reply #28 on: September 16, 2017, 08:42:46 pm »
If your depth of cut was 1/16 of an inch I would expect the shaving to be 1/4-1/2 long not 3-4 inches.  I just can't imagine how you can get shavings that long.
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Offline BeeMaster2

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Re: Thickness planer suggestions
« Reply #29 on: September 16, 2017, 09:03:55 pm »
If your depth of cut was 1/16 of an inch I would expect the shaving to be 1/4-1/2 long not 3-4 inches.  I just can't imagine how you can get shavings that long.
Ditto
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Offline gww

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Re: Thickness planer suggestions
« Reply #30 on: September 16, 2017, 09:37:48 pm »
On me it depends on the wood.  ace and jim are right on oak but on cedar I get like fussion gets for lenght of shavings.  I have never did pine but believe it would be closer to cedar then oak.
Cheers
gww

Offline Acebird

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Re: Thickness planer suggestions
« Reply #31 on: September 16, 2017, 10:46:44 pm »
The rake angle isn't right or the blades are dull.  The wood should slice like cheese.  Each blade should take about a .005-.010 chip if the feed and speed is right.
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Offline Fusion_power

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Re: Thickness planer suggestions
« Reply #32 on: September 17, 2017, 01:38:26 am »
Ace, put your glasses on.  I wrote "1/64 (one sixty fourth)" of an inch for depth of cut.  If you don't see how the planer is generating shavings this long, maybe it would help to envision the type planer and the type wood I am cutting.  This is a straight blade planer with the blade 12 inches long.  I am planing cypress which is a soft/brittle wood similar to pine but that splits and cracks easily if dried improperly.  The knives are brand new put on yesterday.  It is doing a decent job planing but as I stated is clearly a low end machine.
47 years beekeeping, running about 20 colonies in square Dadant hives.

Offline Acebird

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Re: Thickness planer suggestions
« Reply #33 on: September 17, 2017, 08:19:10 am »
I have my glasses on and I know what you wrote.  Something isn't kosher.
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Offline rwurster

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Re: Thickness planer suggestions
« Reply #34 on: December 30, 2017, 01:42:22 pm »
I have a Ridgid 13" planer and I love it.  It comes with double sided blades so if one gets nicked it doesnt mean you have to get a new set of blades.  I also manually sharpen mine with a diamond stone and a jig and have had no real issues.  If youre sharpening your own blades though you have to check that they are all the same thickness.  By thickness I mean the "height" not the actual thickness.  You also have to make sure its a uniform "height" along its length.  If one blade is taller than the rest, that blade is doing the bulk of the cutting and the end result is not so great.  That blade will also dull up faster then you have 2 sharp blades and a dull one if you have a 3 blade planer and the finish can be sketchy. 

One thing also is grain direction.  Sometimes you will run a board through and see ripped fibers and pitting etc.  Try reversing the board and running it through the planer the other way, sometimes this is the problem.  The same thing happens with hand planes.  As far as knots go, they are a pain especially in really dry wood.  My planer gives a really nice finish though, but it is in no way hand plane smooth or card scraper smooth.

The planer is great for what I use it for and it has a decent warranty.
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