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Author Topic: Oxalic acid and warre floor  (Read 3268 times)

Offline Hops Brewster

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Re: Oxalic acid and warre floor
« Reply #20 on: January 10, 2018, 11:15:15 am »
I suppose it is debatable whether vaporizing (dusting, Mr. LJ) from the top or the bottom is more effective, but as of today, I still have 3:3 hives alive.

A commercial beekeeper friend of mine who keeps hives in the Dartmoor/ Exmoor area of Britain (close to where Brother Adam used to operate) swears by injecting OA at the top - which makes sense, as the cloud of dust is heavier than air and so will tend to slowly float downwards as the propellent air begins to cool.
LJ
Which is  fact that influenced my choice of this method.   I'm pleased to learn my thoughts in this are not too far off base.
Winter is coming.

I can't say I hate the government, but I am proudly distrustful of them.

Offline texanbelchers

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    • Mark Belcher
Re: Oxalic acid and warre floor
« Reply #21 on: January 10, 2018, 02:35:57 pm »
A follow up on a couple of things pertaining to my original thoughts in case anybody is interested. I found a topic on another site where people were making their own versions of the provap 110. Just dona google search for band heater vaporizer. I won?t link it as I don?t know that it?s appropriate. Either way it involves welding some 3/16? copper pipe into the side of a 1? to 1.5? copper pipe with the 3/16? pipe acting as a spout of sorts. You then use a band heater to sublimate the oa. Some use electronics to better control the temp and others just use a weaker heater and wait a little longer.

Back on topic - that's exactly what I was planning to do just as soon as the weather moderates enough so that I can weld without my hands shaking with the cold.  I'm planning on making a mild steel prototype in order to iron-out any bugs, before making the final device from stainless steel.  I already have the tubes and band heater - still have the the electronics to make - but it's the weather which is holding things up right now.

I've found the relevant Beesource thread (thanks) - 21 pages ! - I'll have to wade through that later this evening.  Appreciated.
'best
LJ
 


I made mine out of 1 1/4" copper tube.  1 end cap for the bottom a small section of tube and an endcap for the top.  I centered a 1" end cap in the top to hold the OA.  The biggest problem is getting a good seal for the lid (using high temp RTV) and the fact that I only made one.  I set the control at 230C; it cools to about 160C before it starts heating back up.  By about 210C it is completely done.  I used MAPP gas and brazed things together as those temperatures are way too high for solder.

I've thought about having a machinist friend of mine make one out of aluminum stock, but I haven't gone there yet.  One other thing that really  helps with recovery time is insulating outside the heater.  I just got some high-temp exhaust wrap to redo mine.

Offline Bush_84

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Re: Oxalic acid and warre floor
« Reply #22 on: January 11, 2018, 11:34:43 am »
At least right now my plan is to use 1.5? copper with an end cap trimmed down on the bottom. Most on the other topic are using a rubber cap on top I believe. With the bigger sized heater it seems that I?ll have to buy some electronics to control the temperature as well.
Keeping bees since 2011.

Also please excuse the typos.  My iPad autocorrect can be brutal.

 

anything