Oil trap screened hive bottom?

[AustinB]

I've noticed more hive beetles than I'd like to see this year. I'm thinking of trying the oil trap style screened bottom boards. Does anyone who has used, or is currently using them have any feedback on their personal experience?

[Brian MCquilkin]

I found that oil was too messy so I changed to diatomaceous earth and that worked great.

[Ben Framed]

I tried oil traps when I only had only four of five hives and they did the job. Paus and Sawdstmkr pointed me in that direction. My first year I had a severe SHB problem and they saved the day. Several folks since have have mentioned diatomaceous earth as Brian just recommend. I have heard good things about diatomaceous. I have not heard any negativity about diatomaceous that I can recall.




                                                                                                                                                    .

[AustinB]

I tried oil traps when I only had only four of five hives and they did the job. Paus and Sawdstmkr pointed me in that direction. My first year I had a severe SHB problem and they saved the day. Several folks since have have mentioned diatomaceous earth as Brian just recommend. I have good things about diatomaceous. I have not heard any negativity about diatomaceous that I can recall.




                                                                                                                                                    .

I found that oil was too messy so I changed to diatomaceous earth and that worked great.

I have never heard of that, but like the sound of it. I'll have to search and see where to buy and how to use it. Thank you

[paus]

Most of my hives have an aluminum casserole pan with edges rolled for strength, with 1/2 to 3/4 inch of used cooking oil in them.  I have a back door to service the pan of oil, I pour the oil through a $1 plastic strainer I got at the $ store into a 5 gallon bucket and reuse the oil.  The bees seldom know I am there when I service the oil pan.  No mess, no SHB, if I stay on top of servicing the pans.  I have used pollen sub on the oil and/or a spoon full of "slimeout juice" IN A FOIL CUP on the oil as bait, seems to work quicker on an infestation of SHB.  My DSBB have 2 3/4" space for the oil pan with #8 hardware cloth for screens. 

[Ben Framed]

Most of my hives have an aluminum casserole pan with edges rolled for strength, with 1/2 to 3/4 inch of used cooking oil in them.  I have a back door to service the pan of oil, I pour the oil through a $1 plastic strainer I got at the $ store into a 5 gallon bucket and reuse the oil.  The bees seldom know I am there when I service the oil pan.  No mess, no SHB, if I stay on top of servicing the pans.  I have used pollen sub on the oil and/or a spoon full of "slimeout juice" IN A FOIL CUP on the oil as bait, seems to work quicker on an infestation of SHB.  My DSBB have 2 3/4" space for the oil pan with #8 hardware cloth for screens.

Yes this method is a proven winner! I appreciate the extra information also of straining etc. If I ever again, have the trouble I had the first year, I will get to work making more bottoms for the cure.....   

[FloridaGardener]

I love the West Beetle Trap.  Between the trap and the fuzzy towel inside, I haven't lost to SHB since I started using the combo.

I add 3/4" x 1-3/4" cleats (runners, or skids) on the sides of the screened bottom board.  I use pressure treated lumber and pre-drill for deck screws.  The West beetle trap sits underneath easily, and I can pull it back anytime to check/scrape the trap without opening the hive. 

It's awesome.  With that 1-3/4" space beneath the screen bottom, guard bees can patrol on the trap's top grid, and kick the fallen beetles into the abyss. 

I too found using oil is stinky.  I use a small amount of water.  I bring a plastic kitchen garbage bag with to scrape out trash at each hive.  I carry a bottle of water to refill a few ounces in each tray.


 

[paus]

I have tried water and I like it better than any thing I've tried, especially with some Sodium hexa meta phosphate added, the water has very little surface tension so everything sinks.  Calgon is the same product and possibly more available for most Beeks.  I do not use water because it evaporates so fast in Texas, and DE cakes but is probably still effective, just try every thing to figure out what works for you.  The DSBB makes the hive heavier.  One more tip I use.  Roll a stick in the rolled edges of the aluminum pan to keep the loaded pan from folding and spilling oil.  *I have been able to control the messy part of the oil pan ever since I lifted a successful hive trap ful of bees with oil pan while standing on the back of a Golf Cart.  That made funniest Bee Keeper Videos, except for the language. 

[BeeMaster2]

I used the oil trays for 3 years. In 30 days the trays are almost solid black from dead beetles. My third year I had 12 hives with oil trays and killed thousands of beetles in every tray every month.
It worked so well that the following year I had very few beetles and stopped using oil.
Jim Altmiller

[Beeboy01]

I've used oil trays loaded with soapy water under screened bottom boards with success. Tried oil in the trays but it was too messy and filled up with debris. The smell of the soapy water seemed to piss the bees off a bit and needed to be refilled about every three or so days but it killed a lot of beetles. 

[Ben Framed]

I used water topped off with oil, as oil floats. I added enough oil on top to seal the water surface to avoid evaporation and save oil. I also put a good dash of mothers vinegar in the water before adding the oil. This worked well. I came up with this little mixture on my own. 

[Brian MCquilkin]

With the oil traps, you need to make sure to seal the tray snug and tight so the returning forages can't get into them and drown. been there done that.

[The15thMember]

With the oil traps, you need to make sure to seal the tray snug and tight so the returning forages can't get into them and drown. been there done that.

I don't have personal experience here, but I'd think this would apply to diatomaceous earth traps as well.  The DE isn't harmful to adults, but if it gets tracked into the hive by the workers, it could be dangerous to the brood. 

[Ben Framed]

Whichever way you may decided to go, oil or diatomaceous earth. I am posting a video showing how to make proper, perfect, sized pans from scratch; start to finish.  The end results are fantastic and well worth the effort involved.  IMO

Adding if you already have access to a metal brake, so much the better.


https://youtu.be/EyFlxb3I6Zg

[Brian MCquilkin]

With the oil traps, you need to make sure to seal the tray snug and tight so the returning forages can't get into them and drown. been there done that.

I don't have personal experience here, but I'd think this would apply to diatomaceous earth traps as well.  The DE isn't harmful to adults, but if it gets tracked into the hive by the workers, it could be dangerous to the brood.

Correct for both, make them tight to keep the bees out

[AustinB]

So much good info. Thanks all

[cao]

After my battles with the little buggers, I have found that you don't need a full tray under a full screened bottom.  A small pan slid under a small hole cut in a solid bottom board that is screened over can work  just as well.  This mean less oil less mess and less cost to convert a solid bottom.

[Ben Framed]

After my battles with the little buggers, I have found that you don't need a full tray under a full screened bottom.  A small pan slid under a small hole cut in a solid bottom board that is screened over can work  just as well.  This mean less oil less mess and less cost to convert a solid bottom.

That's awesome cao. I know from your writings that you have many hives. Do you have this pan system under every hive or do you have a special strategy? 
If you don't have these under each hive, do you find beetles from other hives are drawn to these trap hives by smell perhaps? In other words if you have these spaced out among your hives, do you find the beetles in the unprotected hives to be in small numbers now? I am asking because, if I remember correctly, Sawdstmakr said he did not have these under every hive after a period of time if I remember correctly.  Again, good job!!

[AustinB]

After my battles with the little buggers, I have found that you don't need a full tray under a full screened bottom.  A small pan slid under a small hole cut in a solid bottom board that is screened over can work  just as well.  This mean less oil less mess and less cost to convert a solid bottom.

Now that is right up my ally, modifying what I have. Let me ask you this, what is the diameter of the hole you drilled? And I assume the screen is large enough to pass a beetle, but small enough to stop the bees? Thanks for the input, and the pictures. Pictures are quite helpful 

[paus]

I have tried using one  6" hole drilled with my "cornhole game " hole saw.  This did not SEEM to work as well as full screen but I want to try using the slime from a slimeout in the oil pan bottom board,  the SHB really come to that stink. I believe that not every hive has to have a Screen with oil pan but say every other or maybe one in five or ten will be effective since SHB move from hive to hive.  So far it is not a science but it does work.