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made a general check on things today and all looked fine. They're not building comb as fast as I expected them to but they are making progress.
Changed out the oil pan because it had just gotten too nasty looking to tolerate. Found out that I need to change something about it as the wood tray underneath the aluminum insert was full of water... no damage or discoloration though. Lots of dead hive beetles in the garbage now ... fresh oil and new pan for more to die in.

A good hour later, I was on the couch and noticed the cat was staring at me, moving it's head around and acting weirded out. After awhile, felt a little tickle on my shoulder .. a very small worker bee. It walked right onto my hand, so it got delivered back to the hive. They seem to do this kind of thing a lot, hitchhike into the house. Cat doesn't like it. Wife doesn't like it. Might have to get a bee suit after all, to make it easier to shed them. 
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Welcome to Beemaster, heartfarm!  What an amazing way to get your first bees!  :happy:

All of that background to ask-- how long do I have until the hive is "settled" and have to take strong considerations for relocating the hive?
If they have been in there for a week, they are basically already settled.  The general rule of thumb for moving hives is "3 feet or 3 miles". Bees visually memorize the location of the hive when they are first learning to forage, but once they have done so, they will leave the hive taking for granted that their memorized location is accurate.  (You wouldn't expect your house to move either!  :cheesy: )  The bees won't have trouble finding the new hive location if it's moved about 3 feet or less, but any farther away than that and the bees won't be able to find it reliably.  However, if you lock the bees in overnight, so none of the foragers get left behind, and move the hive several miles, everything will look so different that the bees will memorize the new location.  So unless your property is VERY large, moving them to another location will probably be a gradual process.  There are some ways to try and get bees to reorient to a new location, like putting a branch in front of the entrance to confuse them, the success of which is variable based on what I've heard, but I've never tried it myself. 

My plan is to move the frames they are building on (now 7 days) into this "new" hive being delivered after they've been in there for about 3 weeks total. The new hive is already painted white and may fare better in weather (sun, monsoons, some light snowfall). Is that wrong?
 
White is a great color for a hive, and unless you lived in an extremely cold climate it would not be a problem (and honestly, I've seen plenty of beekeepers in Alaska and far northern Canada with white hives too).  I have hives in all colors.  The only thing I'd be concerned about would be black. 

Do I need to, or is it better to keep them in the existing super (proper super just not painted) and just set that on the new bottom board/stand, and add the medium on top of that?

It should be easy to transfer the frames into the painted deep when it arrives if that is what you prefer.  I'm assuming your climate is very dry, so there would also be likely no issues using that unpainted box for a season.  Even in my extremely humid climate, I have a friend who doesn't paint his boxes, and they hold up okay.  If you'd rather have them in the painted box though, you can just transfer the frames they are on to the new hive on the new stand, and I doubt they will have any serious trouble as long as the location remains the same.  The difference in the height of the hive could confuse them for a few hours, but they should get the hang of the new entrance quickly enough. 

I ordered a kit from Dadant that includes a 10-frame deep super and medium shallow. I'm waiting for the hive stand and queen excluder. Right now I have them in a clean "temporary" deep super I had in the barn, and am still looking for the best location. We are rural, 5000ft high desert and sometimes winds of 35mph so am considering building an adobe wall long term for windbreak. I have pasture and orchard 0.1 miles from the house but lots of variables with cows, irrigation and critters so am considering ample space uphill nearer the house. Right now I have the hive set on boards with cinder blocks just inches off the ground (all I had available) just outside our courtyard wall under a mesquite bush with weight on top of the cover.
         
Just to put your mind at ease, nothing about this setup sounds problematic to me in the least.  I keep my hives on cinderblocks permanently (I use 8 frames, so they get tall fast).  Also, just a quick correction on terminology.  There are 3 Langstroth box depths: deep, medium, and shallow.  A super is a box of any size placed over the brood nest as space for the bees to store honey. 

Congrats on becoming a beekeeper!  Please don't hesitate to ask us any and all questions you may have.  We never get tired of talking about bees here on Beemaster.  :happy:
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I'd say to keep it in the same location - sounds like a good place.  When the new hive box comes, put the caught swarm in the "temporary" deep on top of it.  Eventually, the caught swarm will move down into the new space.
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Hi! Thank you in advance.
I caught a swarm last weekend and borrowed a bottom board from a neighbor until my hive parts came in and am feeding them. This all happened quickly and I wasn't quite prepared. The swarm basically surrounded me for about 60 seconds and then clustered on the ground so I took it as a sign to step into gear :smile:

I ordered a kit from Dadant that includes a 10-frame deep super and medium shallow. I'm waiting for the hive stand and queen excluder. Right now I have them in a clean "temporary" deep super I had in the barn, and am still looking for the best location. We are rural, 5000ft high desert and sometimes winds of 35mph so am considering building an adobe wall long term for windbreak. I have pasture and orchard 0.1 miles from the house but lots of variables with cows, irrigation and critters so am considering ample space uphill nearer the house. Right now I have the hive set on boards with cinder blocks just inches off the ground (all I had available) just outside our courtyard wall under a mesquite bush with weight on top of the cover.

All of that background to ask-- how long do I have until the hive is "settled" and have to take strong considerations for relocating the hive?

My plan is to move the frames they are building on (now 7 days) into this "new" hive being delivered after they've been in there for about 3 weeks total. The new hive is already painted white and may fare better in weather (sun, monsoons, some light snowfall). Is that wrong? Do I need to, or is it better to keep them in the existing super (proper super just not painted) and just set that on the new bottom board/stand, and add the medium on top of that?

thank you!
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Blackberries are blooming pretty heavily here.
AAHH!!  Send them my way!  :grin:
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MOVIES / The Stand at Paxton County
« Last post by The15thMember on Today at 07:35:22 pm »
This is the last weekend to watch The Stand at Paxton County on Netflix, and I don't know where, if anywhere, it will be available once it's gone, so if you want to see it, you'd better do it fast!  I watched it last night and was very impressed, not only by the cinematic quality from such a small production, but also by the fact that this was inspired by a true story, and even though it was kind of "action-ified" and streamlined and all the names were changed, a shocking amount of what happened in this movie really happened.  The whole project was very anti-Hollywood, and I was disconcerted by the fact that I had never heard of this movie or the true story behind it before.  My sister and I gave it an 8/10.  If you have the chance, don't pass it up.  You can read the true story here, but fair word of warning, it's very long. 
https://protecttheharvest.com/news/north-dakota-rancher-fighting-for-his-ranch-and-your-rights
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GENERAL BEEKEEPING - MAIN POSTING FORUM. / Re: Follow the Bloom - 2024
« Last post by .30WCF on Today at 07:33:51 pm »
Blackberries are blooming pretty heavily here.


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I inspected 4 colonies today, two of which are very small and struggling.  The one is coming off a supersedure and was starving, so I gave them some honey frames and reduced them down to a single box.  The other is this swarm that didn't have a laying queen.  I didn't see any queen cells in there last inspection, but today I found 2 being torn down on the original donor frame, so maybe I just missed them before.  They still had some open brood so I decided to wait another week and see if they are just waiting for a queen to be mated.  My favorite queen Snow White got an additional box.  For some reason, the brood pattern in her bottom box wasn't very good, but in the second box it was stellar.  I did a sugar roll and their mite counts were low, so it's not that.  They were a little low on honey as well, so maybe that was the culprit.  I put two honey frames in their new box.  I also found eggs and very young larvae in the colony I split her from, so I named that new queen Cinderella.  Unlike everyone else, they have a full honey super.  This colony has always been better at foraging for whatever reason.         
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The black cherry is starting here, and I saw open tulip poplars in Cherokee earlier in the week, so ours should be close, if not also open.  My poplars are so large I need binoculars to see the flowers.  :grin:  Hopefully we'll get some nectar coming in soon.  I had to give two of my small colonies some extra honey today.  Pollen is fine though, I took a pint out of my pollen trap after less than 24 hours!  :shocked: 
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Thanks Les, I will be checking out Lightburn. Let me know about engraving the lids.
Jim Altmiller
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