Double hive stand with screened bottoms


Beth Kirkley:
For the last few days I’ve been building a double hive stand, with screened bottom boards. There are several reasons I did this, and why I designed it just the way I did.
1) hive #2 is rather large, and tends to hang outside in the afternoons, so I wanted the ventilation
2) the ventilation for both the hives will help them in brood rearing
3) the screen will also help with varroa mite control
4) I built it so the hives will be turned 90 degrees, like a DE hive, so I can easily access the frames standing at the rear of the hive
5) I also wanted the hives raised some so I can inspect without having to bend over as much
6) I have handles on each side to hang up to 5 frames while I’m doing an inspection

So, that all explained....... here’s the process

I first cut the pieces for the main frame. I used two 8'x6"x1" boards - cutting them into:
A - (1) 5 foot piece
B - (4) 27 inch pieces, with 45 degree cuts in the ends & an 1/8th inch groove down each inside edge (1/2 inch below the top edge) (picture shown below)
C - (2) 6 inch pieces
These are the only pieces of the design that would work for anyone. The other pieces (that I cut later)  would have to be modified according to your own hive. I build my hives, and made a small mistake in it, but it worked out where I can have 11 frames in each box that fit nicely.

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I then assembled the main frame. I placed Part A as the back-board, Parts B for where the hive itself sits, and Parts C on the ends for the handles.

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Grooves: 1/8th inch deep, ½ inch from the top, on insides of frame (This is where I will slide in the 1/8th inch plywood for the landing board, and it will also help me in proper positioning of the screened frames.)

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Here is a picture of it with the landing boards before installing the screened bottoms.

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I then used one 10'x6"x2" board for the screen frames and legs. I cut the board first down the full length at 1 ½ inches, and that piece I used for the screen frames. The 10'x4"x2" was used for the 5 legs and the center bracer board. I installed the center leg & bracer boards, and cut the frames for the screen, making sure the screen frames were slightly smaller than needed. I knew a little bit of space would be needed on the edges for wrapping the screen.

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After covering the screen frames with 1/8th inch screen, I got them installed, using the groove I’d cut to ensure proper placement. Then I put on the legs, and painted it.

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I also placed a few strips of wood on the underside so that in the winter I can slide a board under the screen to cut down the draft coming threw the screened bottom. There’s even enough space to place foam insulation under the screen if I want.

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And lastly, here is the finished & painted hive stand.

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I hope I covered all of it. :)

Nice Job!
Great Pics

Very nice job? Did you happen to design a way to put a tray in and close up the botom for winter? Do you even need to close it where ou are? I am in Michigan and probably need to keep mine closed for winter.

Beth Kirkley:
Thanks Roger & Lechwe -

And Lechwe, yes I put a couple strips of scrap wood on the underside as runners to slip a board in for winter closing. I don't know if it's needed, but I'd imagine so. I hear that there are people here in Georgia that leave the screened bottom board on all winter, but usually the screened bottom is on a hive stand that's RIGHT on the ground with no air flow like I have. It will get cold here, but rarely snows. Generally only gets a few degrees below freezing a few nights of the winter. But still, with a completely open bottom like that, I'm sure the girls would got too cold. So during the winter I'll be able to put a piece of insulative foam board under the screen, and slip a piece of wood under that to close it all up tight.


Exellent Job Beth:

I could really use one of these three wide :)

I think I would add flashing around the feet to stop ground contact - I'm all top soil here and anything wood and heavy would rot on me quickly. what a great looking project - fine job!


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