Beemaster's International Beekeeping Forum
BEEKEEPING LEARNING CENTER => EQUIPMENT USAGE, EXPERIMENTATION, HIVE PLANS, CONSTRUCTION TIPS AND TOOLS => Topic started by: Beeboy01 on April 19, 2017, 01:56:29 pm
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As I recover from a SHB attack in my bee yard I have realized that I need to step up my prevention. One of the ideas that has caught my attention is using screened bottom boards with an oil tray to help keep the beetles under control. I shopped around and was a little amazed at what they cost so decided to design and make some for myself.
The #8 screen is available on line, just ordered a 24 inch x 10 foot roll from Wal-Mart with free shipping for less than one SBB would cost. The wood frame I will make out of ripped down pressure treated 2x4's with a bottom of plywood that will hold a plastic tray under the hive. Any wood that the bees come into contact with will be made out of cedar, the plan is to prevent everything from rotting out like the commercial ones seem to do.
I'm still up in the air about my final design, should it have a plywood base or just open with tracks to slide the tray into. I like having a closed off bottom board but keeping it clean is a problem. Still need to find some lunch trays so I can't draw up any finial dimensions yet.
Any input and ideas will be appreciated
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Beeboy,
I recommend staying away from plywood. Most of the hives that I made using plywooyhave rotted out and I had to rebuild them replacing the plywood only.
I make my own trays using valley roofing galvanized metal. It works real well and lasts for years.
Jim
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Go to myoldtools.com and he has a SBB design that I have used made from a 2x4, way too easy.
Good tip on the Wal-mart for the #8! That crap is expensive.
Ross is the man.
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So far my plywood has outlasted the commercial one made of pine. It has to be an exterior plywood so it doesn't de-laminate.
Mine is simple construction, 3/4 plywood (free from medical machine pallets). Four 3/4 holes are drilled in the corners of the screen area about 1 1/2 in form the sides and the back and 2 1/2-3 in from the front. Then just cut out the center from hole to hole. I use two 2X3's and cut a groove 3/4 down X 1/2 deep that the plywood will be clamped and glued to. Chamfer the top edge 3/4X3/4 which will leave 3/4 top face for your box to rest on. So the outside dimension of the SBB is 1 1/2 in bigger than the width of the box. I cut down a 2X3 to have a cross piece in the front so it is flush with the bottom of the 2X3 side pieces.
My hives are on pallets so I use another piece of free plywood big enough to span two hives and set the SBB on that. A plastic tray is placed in between the SBB sides and I block off the back side (where I get access) with something 2X4, 4X4 anything that will prevent the bees from getting below the screen.
This construction keeps the plastic tray 2 inches away from the screen which prevents the mites from getting back into the hive if the pan is not oiled or greased. A shorter distance just lets the mites go back into the hive, so I am told.
http://i697.photobucket.com/albums/vv333/acebird1/Friday%2013%20Devide%202012/Thedevide4Friday-13002.jpg
http://i697.photobucket.com/albums/vv333/acebird1/Friday%2013%20Devide%202012/Thedevide4Friday-13b006.jpg
These photos don't have the extra plywood underneath because back then I didn't close off the bottom.
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Ace, nice looking SBB's and your design is close to what I'm planning to build but without plywood. I've been scribbling and decided that using pressure treated wood is the way to go for anything under the screens and yellow pine for the rest with a good coat of paint on all the wood.
I'm skipping the plywood bottom because the tray will close off the hive and do the same job. Still looking for light colored trays, found a lot of brown and black ones on line but want a lighter color to keep track of the mites and beetles.
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The issue I have with pressure treated is it is soaked with water and the chemical pesticide. It is going to shrink a ton when it dries. If you let it dry first it will split and crack losing a lot of it's strength. It is hard to keep paint on it unless you dry it first. Because it shrinks so much glue doesn't work to well. What rots out in my apiary is the pallets. I have an endless supply. Painted wood that doesn't touch the soil will last a long time.
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I've had great luck with pressure treated lumber for hive stands, if you sort through the wood at the store and only buy the drier stuff it doesn't warp or shrunk.
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If you wait until it is dry up here it will be August and look like something you could use for a cross bow. If you buy it now in the beginning of the season it will splash if you hit it with a hammer.
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Beeboy, I have been making double screen bottom boards and putting a lift door on the back so bees can't get in I use a 1x4 or 2x4 for the sides of the double screen bottom board. The oil tray goes between the screens. One hive had an invasion of SHB The first day after the oil pan was installed I caught 23 SHB and numerous larva, there after for several weeks I would catch 10-12 per week and larva in large numbers Two days ago I rehived this colony to a larger hive, I saw 5 SHB and the hive was strong. The oil WORKS. I also use treated 1x4 to staple the screen on as this all that contacts my hive stands.
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Beeboy, I just cut out the bottom under the hive and staple the screen in, add a compartment under it 2 sides and a front with a hinged door at the back and a bottom. I build my pan to fit, and used to use oil, it does work, but I changed to water with dish washing liquid in it. it works too is easier to clean. during the summer I do have to keep a watch on the level, with the heat you can get some evaporation so you may have to add a little water.
Good luck to you and your bees,
Joe D
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I'm always amazed how wood holds up in different climates. I watch reality shows where they take a white pine tree and bury it in the ground as part of the framing of a building and it lasts for 10 years. Down here, if white pine is in contact with the ground it will be little more than paper in about a year.
Pressure treated wood exposed to direct sunlight and rain will last 10 years. It probably last twice that up north. Regular plywood will last about 3 years out in the weather.
Jim
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I was thinking to use SBB here in Thailand because where it is warm to hot most of the year, I was thinking it would provide better ventilation but was cautioned that I may also make the hive more humid and be inducing a moisture problem for the bees. People don't use SBB here and advise just let the bees take care of it, they know what to and how yo do it.
Supha Beefarm here has 2000 hives, no SBB, and they are not using inside covers and their bees are all fine.
I do see where using a full size SBB with a pan of oil under increases the available surface area to catch the SHB.
I went with this method, very easy to do, 70mm hole saw only requires a light filing with half round filer and the cover fits nice n snug, little mineral oil and all set.
https://youtu.be/kbZHLge1akM
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We made these and used cafeteria trays.
They work a great. Can even have the bees in heavy shade. Cost about $10. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170422/76ad8bfd1dd26e5780a45cddeaca7b7a.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170422/d5d755a62069210bf665cbf3f8b3b4c0.jpg)
Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
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Those are like mine except that I used cheep metal cookie sheets.
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Heidi, That's just what I'm working on, I like your design. I found the trays for $3.35 a piece at a local restaurant supply store and have been ripping some left over red wood into strips for the frames. Have enough material for six SBBs which is all the hives I plan to have for a while.
Have a friend who had his pine SBBs rot out in about three years and ended up having his hives tip, what a mess.
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Have enough material for six SBBs which is all the hives I plan to have for a while.
"A while" doesn't last as long as you think. :wink:
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All of my new SBB are DSBB nd I use treated lumber on the bottom that is in contact with the concrete block or a stand that holds 6 hives. I like my hives up off the ground to keep from bending over. I'm an old coddger and bending hurts. I saw a youtube of a man making hives out of all treated lumber, not me.
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Worse then bending over I don't like picking off supers full of honey that are over my head so my hives are as low as I can get them.
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I put my hives on cinder blocks and have a base that sits on them made out of 2x4 and 4x4 pressure treated lumber. It keeps the hives about a foot off the ground which is about right when working the second super or adding honey boxes. Each hive gets its own base so I can work them from the side if needed.
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Fortunately, here in Thailand I can buy waist high tables for short money.
Upper body is strong enough to do what needs to be done but no stooping or vending for me, especially for extended periods.