Beemaster's International Beekeeping Forum
BEEKEEPING LEARNING CENTER => EQUIPMENT USAGE, EXPERIMENTATION, HIVE PLANS, CONSTRUCTION TIPS AND TOOLS => Topic started by: Lesgold on February 06, 2022, 12:50:41 am
-
Hi folks,
Anyone tried one these? Just wondering how they perform.
Cheers
Les
-
This is not the whole machine... You're missing a capping Tank along with the capping baskets.. To catch the capping.. I have seen one of these in operation at Betterbee bee Supply Company in New York USA.. In my personal opinion this machine worked well... For its price range..
Just in case you'd like to see a video of it in operation..
https://youtu.be/Am1xeYZ1aUE
BEE HAPPY Jim134 :smile:
-
Yes, they are excellent when set up correctly. The only problem is if your capped honey doesn't extend above the frame sides then it still needs amnually uncapping. But it takes seconds to uncap a frame.
One thing to watch for is if you use too fast the blade looses heat and it tries to crinkle the capping's.
But an absolute godsent when you have stacks of supers ready to extract.
Im then leave the capping to drip for as day or so giving them a good turn over and collect thee capping honey under a sieve build into the collecting tank. Which is heated so you can melt the capping's if you wish.
Here are a couple of before and after pictures of it in use.
(https://acornpreserves.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/steamknive.jpg)
-
Thanks for your responses guys. I am looking into the possibility of changing from an electric knife to something a little bit easier. Jim, I use a cappings tank currently. It is about the size that is required for the uncapper. I just need to check how close it is to what is required. Good to know it works well for you Nigel. That?s the information I need. How does it handle a frame that has had brood in it in the past?
-
Yes, they are excellent when set up correctly. The only problem is if your capped honey doesn't extend above the frame sides then it still needs amnually uncapping. But it takes seconds to uncap a frame.
(https://acornpreserves.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/steamknive.jpg)
This is why.. You would put 9 frames... In a 10 frame boxes.. I would suggest you read some stuff ...About this.. 9 frames on 10 frame Box..
BEE HAPPY Jim134 :smile:
-
I?ve always run 9 frames in a 10 frame box to allow the bees to draw out the comb past the frame. 10 frames in a 10 frame box is also a tight fit. It can be quite hard to get frames out once the bees have glued them up with propolis. 8 frame boxes have a little more space between the frames.
-
A year or so ago I ask about another type of uncapper; (simple harmony). I recall Robo suggesting the Lyson manual steam uncapper which I had never heard of. Actually in my minds eye I pictured a steam heat knife. At the time I had intended to look further into this but got sidetracked and never did. I am glad your brought this topic up Les, this subject has caught my interest especially after viewing the video posted by Jim 134. I am impressed with this uncapper. Adding; I can see the plus of putting 9 frames in a 10 frame super or even 7 in an 8 etc. (Thanks Les). Fatter/thicker Combs should insure a complete uncapping of most frames with this method? Speeding things right along.
Phillip
Also thanks for the clear before and after pictures NigelP. 👍🏻
-
Yes, it looks quite good. Skinny frames are still an issue. Even when running 9 frames to the super, you will still get a few lazy bees who cap off frames before you would like them to. The hot knife will still be needed to cut off burr comb and propolis but the actual uncapping process looks as though it will be a quick job. I just rang a supplier and they stated that the steamer should run for about 20 minutes or so before the water tank needs filling. My only other issue is that the uncapper will operate at a faster rate than my 12 frame extractor. I can live with that problem. If the uncapper fits on my uncapping tank, I think I?ll order one.
-
Just ordered the unit. Should be here in about a week. I will give a report on the uncapper when I start using it.
Cheers
Les
-
Just ordered the unit. Should be here in about a week. I will give a report on the uncapper when I start using it.
Cheers
Les
👍🏻
-
This is why.. You would put 9 frames... In a 10 frame boxes.. I would suggest you read some stuff ...About this.. 9 frames on 10 frame Box..
BEE HAPPY Jim134 :smile:
I run 10 frames in a super designed for 11 frames, sometime I use 9. You still get frames where they haven't drawn beyond the edges of the frame.
I don't think bees read the same books. :smile:
-
This is why.. You would put 9 frames... In a 10 frame boxes.. I would suggest you read some stuff ...About this.. 9 frames on 10 frame Box..
BEE HAPPY Jim134 :smile:
I run 10 frames in a super designed for 11 frames, sometime I use 9. You still get frames where they haven't drawn beyond the edges of the frame.
I don't think bees read the same books. :smile:
I have no idea about beekeeping equipment from the UK...
BEE HAPPY Jim134 :smile:
-
NigelP
I run 10 frames in a super designed for 11 frames, sometime I use 9. You still get frames where they haven't drawn beyond the edges of the frame.
I don't think bees read the same books. :smile:
I think you are right! They do not seem to always want follow the rules. 😊 Thanks Nigel.
Phillip
-
There was a fellow from Australia that use to post a lot. He had bees all his life if I remember correctly. He recommended to me the use of one less frame per design in the honey super as he loved as he put it fat honey combs. I think he said > Fat combs, I (lorve) em< In a case like this would be a good time to have the extra thickness he was talking about.
I hope you enjoy your uncapper Les. Keep us informed!
Thanks,
Phillip
-
I have no idea about beekeeping equipment from the UK...
BEE HAPPY Jim134 :smile:
You don't really need to know about the differences in equipment that other countries use Jim. It's the same principal regardless of numbers of frames per box.
-
An interesting point to note is that the internal space in a 10 frame box means that when all 10 frames are fitted, there is very little space between them. The space between frames in an 8 frame box is larger and allows a bit more wriggle room. Is this an issue everywhere or is this just a reality in Australia? Someone got their sums wrong along time ago and we now live with this issue. It is also another reason why running 9 frames in a 10 frame box is a better option.
-
Lesgold
How does it handle a frame that has had brood in it in the past?
I used the backward uncapping fork last season along with the tine scratcher. I had a little trouble getting through older comb that was previously brood comb. I have the same question as well...
Phillip
-
I should have it in about a week. Will need to check hives again soon to see if there is enough capped honey to start extracting again. Will let you know how it performs on the difficult comb.
Cheers
Les
-
How did you find the backward uncapping fork on skinny frames? I?ve never seen them used before. Will have a look to see if anyone has put some clips up on YouTube.
-
Les here is what I found as far as skinny comb was concerned. The few skinny combs were the ones which were at the tail end of the flow. (Left overs if you will), I did not have very many of these.
Honey Pump Beemaster2 and others recommended the three inch, backward comb uncapper, if I remember correctly.
I ordered both sizes just for experimental sake. I found as long as most all comb that was filled during the jest of the flow, (full figured comb), was pretty easy to uncap. (Except previous brood comb which was a pain).
The skinny, uncapped ok up to a certain distance from the edges, depending on just how skinny it was. From there the tine scratcher finished the job. I was pleased with the combination. Still, take into consideration my experiences were limited. Until last season I had used the (scrape it down to foundation method). Primitive yet effective, except once again, x-brood comb.
So in my experience x-brood comb is a hassle as compared to strictly pure honey comb. Therefore my interest in the Lyson Manual tabletop steam uncapper.
Adding: From the recent topic, Single brood box, X-brood comb was in the back of my mind and main reason for asking HoneyPump, (in my reply 7 there), what was done with the upper brood box when the queen is pushed down, while adding the QE in that recent topic. I am assuming the second, top brood box is left in place for reasons I had stated as assumed on that topic and reply. If the Lyson will slide effortlessly through prior brood comb, that will be grand!
Phillip
-
Pardon my ignorance but what is a "three inch, backward comb uncapper"?
It doesn't translate to anything known this side of the pond/world
-
With any kind of automation you first must control the product you are trying to process. By doing so your productivity will increase even with a manual system. You will find that most commercial beekeepers will use foundation, frame spacing and may even use plastic frames to control consistency.
As a hobbyist you really can't uncap much faster that this:
https://youtu.be/WG9_Zz0Xtho
-
Yes there are several ways of uncapping.
-
Pardon my ignorance but what is a "three inch, backward comb uncapper"?
It doesn't translate to anything known this side of the pond/world
Maybe something like this that you pull?
https://beeequipments.com/products/heated-uncapping-plane/
-
Pardon my ignorance but what is a "three inch, backward comb uncapper"?
It doesn't translate to anything known this side of the pond/world
Maybe something like this that you pull?
https://beeequipments.com/products/heated-uncapping-plane/
Yes that is yet another method. Both are good suggestions Brian. Some might enjoy checking out the topic: "Hobbyist: For Uncapping: Hot Knife, Cold Knife, Roller, Scraper, or Other?"
Where we discussed both of these methods (which includes the video you just posted). And another video posted by Burley Bee featuring the uncapping plains that your just posted of as well. It was an interesting discussion.
Phillip
-
Pardon my ignorance but what is a "three inch, backward comb uncapper"?
It doesn't translate to anything known this side of the pond/world
Nigel that might not the the proper name. If thats the case please pardon me. lol I will post a picture.. The idea is to drag the piece across the the comb in a pulling motion..
Phillip
-
Thanks for that Ben, I have seen them, but not very popular in UK. Interesting to know how well they work.
For the bits under the steam knife that are uncapped (or if I can't be bothered to set it up) I use a laser cut uncapping fork to just remove the capping's and add them to the rest of the draining pile. This has thicker tines that lifts the capping up and off. No scratching.
(https://www.thorne.co.uk/uploads/media/ProductImage/0001/14/thumb_13965_ProductImage_big.jpeg)
-
Your welcome Les, for good even honey combs, (not previously used for brood), they work great. I will try and find a short video later and post it here.
Phillip
-
I have always used a hot knife for uncapping. Started with a steam knife originally and then moved to an electric knife. On combs that have had a lot of brood in them, the knife is a bit slower and puts pressure on your wrist. When you have quite a few combs to uncap that have had brood in them, it does slow things down and long term it may cause problems. A fellow beekeeper that I know can no longer use a knife for extended periods due to wrist damage. As this is the first year where I have used a queen excluder on all hives, there are a lot of frames that have contained brood in the past. Many of these will be cycled out of the system over time which will alleviate the problem to some degree. I always giggle at video clips showing frames being uncapped. They always seem to be fresh, fat, fully capped frames containing very little burr comb or evidence of propolis. Don?t get me wrong, the majority of combs are like that. I would just like a clip showing the old frame that you are uncapping for the last time before it is to be recycled. You all know the ones that I?m talking about. They are the ones where you just take a deep breath and then get on with the job. Nigel, I use the same uncapping fork that you do. They work well and are a step up from the cheaper ones with the rounded tines.
-
I would just like a clip showing the old frame that you are uncapping for the last time before it is to be recycled.
I would never use such a frame. This is how work is created and productivity is stifled.
-
Your welcome Les, for good even honey combs, (not previously used for brood), they work great. I will try and find a short video later and post it here.
Phillip
I am posting this short video for you Les. On 'good', 'clean', 'even', 'fat', 'totally (or almost totally) attached comb on all four sides' , 'never before used as brood comb' it works good. (Perfect combs), in other words.
https://youtu.be/6NKmUJAM4kE
-
Thanks for uncovering the clip Phillip. Seems to work very well in that situation. Could be a good option for someone with a few hives who doesn?t want to spend a lot of money on uncapping equipment. The reality is however, most uncapping equipment would do a good job on that type of frame. I do like how the solid, angled skid plate at the front acts as a depth gauge and follows the shape of the capped comb.
-
Les, comb can vary in description as in my last post especially when using foundation-less and the preciseness of the uncapping will rely heavily on the variables of those frames in my one season experience in using this tool. I like it but......
I am hoping your new Lyson will be a breakthrough on the converted brood comb/honey comb... If so your new Lyson might be the trick as far as dollars spent and results hoped for. Comparing to a chain uncapped, which from my understand will do a good job of uncapping described comb....
Any comments on the chain type uncapper?
Phillip
-
I would be interested to hear a bit more about chain uncappers as well. We can get them out here in Australia but they are so expensive. I am sure that the electric knife is still going to get a lot of use on some of the skinny or brood frames. It will also be used for cleaning up burr comb etc before frames go back to the hive. Like any aspect of beekeeping, a routine and work flow will need to be established to suit the new equipment. Looks like I?ll be back extracting again in a couple of days when we end up with some fine weather. I don?t think the Lyson uncapper will arrive until the job is nearly done which is a bit of a shame.
-
The reality is however, most uncapping equipment would do a good job on that type of frame.
What a uncapping fork doesn't do is even the frame out for the next seasons harvest. It actually makes it worse. So if you use a fork you always got to use a fork but if you use any kind of knife hot or cold your frames get easier as time goes on.
-
What a uncapping fork doesn't do is even the frame out for the next seasons harvest. It actually makes it worse. So if you use a fork you always got to use a fork but if you use any kind of knife hot or cold your frames get easier as time goes on.
Don't the bees repair any damage to the comb that had made during the uncapping process no matter the method chosen? Including the simple harmony type uncapper?
Phillip
-
An interesting comment Acebird. I?ve never really thought about it. I know that the bees will repair or change damaged or skinny frames from one flow to the next but I assume that your comment relates to stored comb. I?ve never stored comb over the winter so I can?t really comment. Thanks for that information.
-
Don't the bees repair any damage to the comb that had made during the uncapping process no matter the method chosen?
If a frame is left with high and low spots it more than likely will result in the frame next to it to have high and low spots. Slicing the high spots off allows the beekeeper to place frames uniformly and more often then not the bees will draw the low spots out as opposed to drawing the near frame into the low spot. There is no harm in picking the low spots of a frame with a fork as long as the high spots are sliced even with the top bar. However you can reach the low spots with the curved tip of the hot knife so you don't have two tools to fumble with.
-
I assume that your comment relates to stored comb.
Nothing to do with stored comb. Every thing to do with suggesting to the bees what you want. Some might call it training.
-
Fair comment. Setting frames up so that you get the desired result from the bees is what we are all chasing.
-
Don't the bees repair any damage to the comb that had made during the uncapping process no matter the method chosen?
If a frame is left with high and low spots it more than likely will result in the frame next to it to have high and low spots. Slicing the high spots off allows the beekeeper to place frames uniformly and more often then not the bees will draw the low spots out as opposed to drawing the near frame into the low spot. There is no harm in picking the low spots of a frame with a fork as long as the high spots are sliced even with the top bar. However you can reach the low spots with the curved tip of the hot knife so you don't have two tools to fumble with.
The only way to extract honey form a 'skinny comb/thin comb' is to uncap it; if we are using an extractor. If the low spots can not be reached by what ever method chosen for the initial uncapping; whether that method might be a Chain un-caper, Lyson Steam table, Hot Knife, Simple Harmony slide in preferated type, or Backward un-capper etc. The skinny 'low' area will still have to be opened in order for the honey to be released, (such as a prick type fork for one example on said 'areas of the comb' which can not be reached by popular mechanical methods).
I am not sure but I 'assume' we are talking about the same thing, comb whose foundation is straight, only the bees failed to finish filling it out leaving it skinny or thin if you will, a bit low in some places, (yet capped). {Honey Combs such as I experienced at the 'end' of a flow last season}
Keeping the above explanation of reply 35 in mind, I am asking; As long as the foundation is straight, the bees should repair the damage where we uncapped it? Building it back to proper shape and further building It out too proper thickness during a 'heavy upcoming flow'? Be it a flow the same season or a flow the next season? Especially if this same thin, extracted comb is placed next to a 'proper' 'fully developed' honey comb?
Under these circumstances, shouldn't we with confidence, be able to anticipate our bees repairing 'and' evening out this described thin comb to the proper thickness, along with any damage that might have occurred during the uncapping process?
Now; I would expect just the opposite if the honey comb in question was 'wonky', from a humble beginning of completely foundation-less frame for example, ('if' the foundation was built wonky from its very beginning). It might be safe to assume such a frame of comb would most surely wind up wavy, leaving high and low spots that may not be repaired? We are not talking about this type comb built on uneven foundation. Just the opposite...
Phillip
-
Now; I would expect just the opposite if the honey comb in question was 'wonky', from a humble beginning of completely foundation-less frame for example, ('if' the foundation was built wonky from its very beginning). It might be safe to assume such a frame of comb would most surely wind up wavy, leaving high and low spots that may not be repaired? We are not talking about this type comb built on uneven foundation. Just the opposite...
Phillip
About 10 years before I left the USA... I get rid of a lot of wonky comb... Or you may call it ocean wave comb... I then to plastic foundations... All I can say they work well for me... When there was a honey flow on... When the nectar flows stopped.. The cone building went into a process. That I called drawing pipe comb... The bees were put down combs between 2 different foundations... And make Walkie comb. All I do is scrape it off and start over again... Is the best way to get straight foundation on wax Foundation... Put the foundation in the correct space. In the frame... And wire it in so it was not crooked... And catch a swarm of bees... Is primed to build foundation..
BEE HAPPY Jim134 :smile:
-
Jim 134
I get rid of a lot of wonky comb... Or you may call it ocean wave comb...
I agree Jim 134, I do not think this type comb, wonky / wavy comb, derived from wavy foundation can be straightened out in a way to become uniform or handy to use (when using an extractor).
With this type comb I would do the same as you... "Get rid" of it.....
Phillip
-
The uncapper arrived this morning. It?s been unpacked and set up ready for its first run. I?ve got 4 boxes of honey that I just robbed from the bees. I will give a report in a few days as to how it performs.
Cheers
Les
-
The uncapper was given a run yesterday with mixed results. The V knife on the uncapper is just under the internal width of a frame and due to its shape it moves the frame slightly as it passes over the knife. On the machine I purchased, the knife isn?t perfectly positioned and is about 1.5mm off centre. This means that one side of the frame often gets caught and won?t pass over the cutter. I will fix the problem with a bit of work but I was disappointed that this error in manufacturing was allowed to occur. In saying that, the build quality was very good in general. The V knife has 3 height adjustment points. Winding a wing nut raises or lowers a corner of the cutter. A spring under each corner pushes the knife up and also acts as a shock absorber. When I adjusted the cutter to the correct depth for my frames, I ran out of spring tension. When I get a chance, I will pack out the springs with a couple of stainless washers. The cradle that the frame sits in is a little on the light side. It was slightly twisted and did not sit quite as it should initially. A bit of a flex and the problem was solved. That?s about all of the negatives from the construction perspective. As far as performance goes, the knife really does cut well. Fat frames pass through with ease. The slicing action of the cutter does an excellent job. As I run a double brood box, I am also pulling frames from this section of the hive as they back fill some of them with honey. The result of this means that some frames will contain pollen or will be older brood comb. I was surprised how well the knife handled these difficult frames. The next step for me is to come up with a work sequence that is going to suit my situation. Yesterday was slow, clumsy and very inefficient. I took over double the time to uncap and extract compared to my usual day. That is to be expected when a change in routine occurs and new equipment is being used for the first time. I am already thinking of improvements to the system and a few modifications to the uncapping tray that I currently use. Will keep you guys posted.
Cheers
Les
-
No doubt that you will get everything squared up as needed. It is good to hear that the cutter went through the older Comb with ease. I for one am looking forward to more on this as things progress.. Keep up the good work Les!
Phillip
-
I think you just summed up my first experience of the steam uncapper. It takes a bit of time to get it set up for the frames you are using but once done you should be in business. It doubled my extraction rate, in fact could have tripled it but would have needed a second centrifuge to take the extra frames as my table can only store 10 extracted frames whilst extracting 20 in the extractor. Means I extract the next 10 after centrifuge finished. )If that makes sense)
Only other tip is take it steady as knife needs to heat back up after each frame, only takes a few seconds, but I noticed it crimpled comb if I rushed it too fast.
Other thing to watch is to have it set a few mm above the bottom bars as there is a tendency for it to try and cut into them as frames are never totally level or even.
But must say for the price, compared to chain unpapers it certainly speeds things up, and gives you lovely even comb for the bees to draw back out.
-
Nigel, Les do either of you see a way a thermometer can be added to some part of the blade to be used as a guide in determining if the blade is hot enough for the (next) cut, reducing the chance of wrinkling? If so that might be a plus? If not a portable handheld infrared thermometer may of value? (The type used in cutouts locating bees and also used for other various applications.)
Phillip
-
Hi Phillip
I don?t think a thermometer is really needed. As Nigel said, it?s only a few seconds for the knife to get up to speed. By the time you load a frame into the extractor or sit it in an uncapping tank, the v knife is ready to go again. I run deeps so a lot of the time there will be low spots that you have to clean up anyway. The other issues I had yesterday was with a few frames having burr comb on the top and bottom bars or propolis on the end bars. They did not sit well in the cradle and needed to be cleaned up first. I normally remove propolis and burr comb with my hot knife as I uncap. After the frame comes out of the extractor, it is ready to go back into a hive. This new system will require some double handling of frames and won?t save any time as I?m limited to what my 12 frame extractor can do. It does however do a good job quickly. As the Lyson sits on top of my uncapping tank, another problem has been created. I?ve lost the ability to store my uncapped frames as the steam knife is in the way. I can fit about 10 frames into the rack on the tank but it is awkward to get them in and out. I think I will be building a stainless rack that will hold frames above the uncapper. This will solve the problem. I?m also thinking of positioning my hot knife above the uncapper so that the frames can be cleaned up as I go. I forgot to mention that the cleanup of the uncapper was a simple task. I cleaned the knife with a damp cloth while it was hot and then took the unit outside and hosed it down with cold water.
-
Hi Folks,
Just a bit of an update on the uncapper. As I said in an earlier post, the V cutting knife was offset slightly to one side and was catching on frames. To solve the problem, I enlarged the holes that secure the knife in place. A rat tail file was used to make the holes slightly oval in shape and this gave me the slight amount of movement that was needed. The uncapper did not fit my uncapping tank perfectly so a 20mm x20mm strip of pine was added at each end to stop sideways movement.
The knife support springs were not quite long enough to give the adjustment required. A couple of stainless washers added the packing required to fix that problem. I also replaced the wing nuts with stainless nylock nuts as I found the wing nuts tended to move during operation.
The uncapper should now work very well. The next step will be to construct an overhead rack to hold 12 uncapped frames. Should be able to do this next week.
Cheers
Les
-
Just finished welding up a rack to hold 12 frames above the uncapper. This will mean that I don?t lose the uncapping tank to hold frames while the extractor is running. 25mm stainless angle was used for the project. As you can see from the second photo, the uncapper can still be comfortably used even when the rack is full.
-
Looks good Les. Wish I was a bit more DIY savvy as could do with a similar rack.
-
Thanks Nigel. I think it should work reasonably well. I just need to find a place to setup my hot knife so that it can be used to cleanup low spots, burr comb etc.
-
Another wet day down under so it was a chance to get into the workshop and finish the setup of the uncapper. Thought long and hard about where to position the hot knife. In the end it was quite simple. I worked through the process of moving frames, positioning of hands etc and found the ideal location was on the top of the frame rack close to where I was actually working.
The knife ended up to be easily accessible yet out of the way of hands and arms. The final job was to make a bar with a spike to support frames when using the knife. The easiest solution I could come up with was to slip in piece of angle. Bolts slot into holes in the Lyson frame. It takes about 2 seconds to set it up or remove it.
The frame slide is pushed under the uncapped frames on the rack and the spike is dropped into place. The only other job is to put it to use and develop a work flow to use it. Thank goodness there is no more nectar coming in. I?m sick of the sight of it. At least I?ll have a couple of months off now before the next flow starts.
-
You will do much better to separate frames that will not fully uncap on a separate rack. Then do all these odd balls at one time with the hand knife. The hand knife gets too hot if it is on and not being used. When the extractor is spinning you have idle time to mess with the odd balls.
-
Brian what brand hot knife do you use? I hear their is one that does not get too hot..
-
I agree about not having the knife on all of the time. My intention was to turn the knife on as I get close to uncapping the last couple of frames and then quickly clean them up while the extractor is still running. I will have plenty of time to do this before the extractor finishes it?s cycle. Phillip, I have always used a Speed King knife due to its quality. Although expensive, it?s thermostat keeps the knife at a good temperature and does not overheat.
-
Les from what I have 'recently' learned, knife brand makes the difference. Supposedly there is a knife made in the USA which is dialed in to not reach a temperature which is too hot. I will ask the same question to you that I ask of Ace. What brand knife do you have? Thanks in advance.
Phillip
-
See above Phillip. The Speed King is an American made knife.
Cheers
Les
-
The one I was told of is the Pierce Brand. There may be a difference.
-
Yep, that?s it. Sorry that I didn?t mention the brand. The Speed King is actually the model.
-
I?m very happy with the knife. I may not have explained it very well. This knife does not overheat. It is actually very good. I did have a problem with the first one after about 5 years of use. The thermostat stopped working and it did overheat. It eventually burnt out. The new one runs quite cool and does not burn the honey or wax. Here in Australia, they are over $200 but from my perspective, they are well worth the money. I do keep a spare one and my old steam knife just in case??..
-
Looking back you explained it very well. I should have had my reading glasses on. I see the need of such more regularly lately! lol
I will delete my last reply as I do not want to cause unneeded confusion to the video maker, especially if he may be a member here. Thanks for you patience Les.
Phillip
-
Pardon my ignorance but what is a "three inch, backward comb uncapper"?
It doesn't translate to anything known this side of the pond/world
Nigel that might not the the proper name. If thats the case please pardon me. lol I will post a picture.. The idea is to drag the piece across the the comb in a pulling motion..
Phillip
Oops is this honey uncapper fork scraper good on uneven capped honey. I have quite a few uneven frames. I have a straight serrated uncapping knife honey scrapper which I heat in water and a straight needle comb scrapper uncapping fork.
Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk
-
Oops is this honey uncapper fork scraper good on uneven capped honey. I have quite a few uneven frames. I have a straight serrated uncapping knife honey scrapper which I heat in water and a straight needle comb scrapper uncapping fork.
Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk
Not in my experience. This works like a plainer (if you will). It will miss the low places.