Beemaster's International Beekeeping Forum
BEEKEEPING LEARNING CENTER => EQUIPMENT USAGE, EXPERIMENTATION, HIVE PLANS, CONSTRUCTION TIPS AND TOOLS => Topic started by: Beeboy01 on April 06, 2021, 11:06:33 am
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The title says it all, my neighbor just gave me about 30 1x4 #2 pine boards around 34 inches long and says he has a steady supply coming in from his job. It couldn't of happened at a better time since most of my deeps are starting to show their age. From some quick measurements I will be able to get the width needed for a deep by edge gluing two 3 1/2 inch pieces and add a third ripped down 2 5/8 inch piece for the total width needed. I'll probably add some vertical scabs for extra strength but considering the cost of boxes these days making my own from free lumber is a no brainer. Can't think of any downside of using 1x4's for deeps as long as the glue joints are tight. Can't cut box joints for the corners but using long, short, long boards for the sides and short, long, short boards for the ends will help a bit for strength.
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The title says it all, my neighbor just gave me about 30 1x4 #2 pine boards around 34 inches long and says he has a steady supply coming in from his job. It couldn't of happened at a better time since most of my deeps are starting to show their age. From some quick measurements I will be able to get the width needed for a deep by edge gluing two 3 1/2 inch pieces and add a third ripped down 2 5/8 inch piece for the total width needed. I'll probably add some vertical scabs for extra strength but considering the cost of boxes these days making my own from free lumber is a no brainer. Can't think of any downside of using 1x4's for deeps as long as the glue joints are tight. Can't cut box joints for the corners but using long, short, long boards for the sides and short, long, short boards for the ends will help a bit for strength.
If you have a router table you can tongue and groove these. By adding a generous amount of Tight bond III for a true weather seal at each of these joints. Congratulations!
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It will be a little trouble but you can clamp these together for that perfect tight seal that should last.
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Just last week I bought boards for new deeps which were $12 something for the last 14 foot ones I bought last fall, which were $17 something last week. The very concerned lumber man told me we haven't seen anything yet.
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Beeboy - there's nothing wrong with free lumber. :grin:
I just bought some un-assembled boxes, and frame. The price is up 25% from early last year. That's quite a jump.
I like your idea of alternating long and short boards. I don't see why that wouldn't work just fine. In any case, congrats & "go get 'em".
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Back when I was gainfully employed and around town quite a bit, no stack of wood from a remodel, repair or whatever was passed up without an inspection at least.
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Fired up the table saw and cut to length enough wood to make 3 boxes so far. Need to pull some staples from the rest of the wood but there is enough for one more box and maybe a nuc. I told my neighbor that I'll take whatever wood he has and can trade it for honey if he wants any. Need to clean off and perform an archaeological dig on the work bench then set up some gluing jigs and dig out the big cabinet clamps, nothing like free wood and a reason to straighten out the shop ;). I'm always surprised at how much lumber goes into something as simple as a deep box.
rast, my best trash pick was a big cabinet pattern's maker vice made by Emmert that was out in the trash. Had to add a 3 foot extension to the work bench to make it fit. Dumpster diving around job sites was my thing till it became illegal.
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As long as the box wood is free I wouldn't worry about finger joints. My pine boxes showed signs of rot when I brought them down here. Free isn't free in the long run but it is still a heck of a deal.
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Finished cutting to length all the lumber and started gluing the stuff together with Tightbond 3. Had just enough wood for five deep boxes and the corner joints look like they will work out fine. Need to drill some nail holes and cut the lip for the frames still but it's going quickly. I'm picking at the job spending only an hour or two a day in the shop but it's still moving along. Making them out of free wood beats buying them.
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I know this is an old thread but howd the boxes hold up?
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I know this is an old thread but howd the boxes hold up?
Good question... :grin: Im interested too..
Phillip
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About half of my boxes were made from recycled timber that was edge glued together. The very first ones were dovetailed and then I went to box or finger joints (as per most commercial boxes) These days I just use butt joints as I?m not a migratory beekeeper and the boxes don?t get knocked about during transportation. The secret to success with edge gluing is to make sure that all edges are perfectly flat and square. Don?t try to cramp out any gaps in the timber as that puts internal stresses into the joints that will give over time. Titebond 111 seams to last well. The other secret is to ensure all joints and especially end grain are sealed well to keep moisture out. Off setting edge glued joints on adjacent sides helps to hold the boxes together.