Beemaster's International Beekeeping Forum
BEEKEEPING LEARNING CENTER => GENERAL BEEKEEPING - MAIN POSTING FORUM. => Topic started by: Bush_84 on March 17, 2017, 08:00:52 pm
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Hello all. Noob question, but I have no experience with robber screens. Looking back at my previous years I should be using them. Two falls ago I had my hives wiped clean by yellow jackets. I became more diligent with entrance reducers but after some research I started to wonder why I don't use them. I have made some for some of my mating nucs and for my regular nucs. I have begun to make them for my full hives.
i have screwed the robber screens to my mating nucs and regular nucs. I full intend on using them year round on them. One question I have, is there any reason I couldn't use them year round on my full hives? Any drawbacks to that? I know that a strong hive will be able to protect itself but this would mean I don't have to monkey at all with entrance reducers, which I can never manage to keep on.
As of now my screens for my nucs have a top and bottom wooden piece and the notch is in the top piece. I have left the top open on my full hives figuring they wouldn't need it reduced further with the robbing screen. If I plan on using them year round am I ok with this setup? Should I maybe find a way to apply a removable reducer to the full sized hives? That would also allow me to easily mouse proof my hives. That's something I have struggled with. This would allow for good ventilation but yet no mice in winter.
Thoughts on all that?
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I would remove the screens from full size hives during a major honey flow. Other than that, your plan is fine.
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For my full hives should I keep with the wide open top design?
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They are similar to this guys.
https://goo.gl/images/w4XnNb
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Mine hold the screen 3/8 inch from the hive body. I leave to top open full width. I wouldn't leave that deep an entrance, but I never have, so don't know that they wouldn't work. They may work as well as mine, but I am happy with the 3/8.
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It would be easy enough to put in the extra piece to reduce it to 3/8" space. Even if it means a little extra safety. I like putzing in the shop anyways.
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Here is the way I make them.
http://www.worldwidebeekeeping.com/forum/index.php/topic,1420.msg19070.html#msg19070
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Robber screens get in the way of OAV treatments and winter wrap.
I don't think a strong hive needs it but I put them on all nucs and packages until they are up to strength.
I find them very useful and should be a part of most apiaries.
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If you want to bee able to remove them easily, add 4 little post/cylinder magnets in the 4 corners and add nails in the same position on your hives.
Jim
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Jim, I just set them with 2 drywall screws, I have 20-30 going at the same time.
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Robber screens get in the way of OAV treatments and winter wrap.
I don't think a strong hive needs it but I put them on all nucs and packages until they are up to strength.
I find them very useful and should be a part of most apiaries.
I don't oav. If I were to use oaxilic acid it'd be a dribble. I also have no use for a winter wrap as I winter indoors. Wintering indoors in a bee shed has been the best beekeeping decision that I have ever made.
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Would love to see bee shed.
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Oh it's not something to brag about how beautiful it is. It's effective and not pretty. It's just a small garden shed. I insulated it. I run two dryer ducts to opposing sides of the shed. One has a online fan that runs twice a day to freshen air. I have space heater plugged into something that only powers what's plugged into it when the temp is between 35-45. I think it's for livestock water heaters. It's sealed up and dark. Bees get a poop break once or twice a winter. Have fun the shed two winters and have never had a hive perish in the winter in the shed. I have a topic around here somewhere that has pics. I'll probably post in there to update.
Edit- found the topic. Has pics a few posts down
http://www.beemaster.com/forum/index.php?topic=45610.0