Beemaster's International Beekeeping Forum
BEEKEEPING LEARNING CENTER => GENERAL BEEKEEPING - MAIN POSTING FORUM. => Topic started by: paus on June 14, 2019, 04:26:06 pm
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Probably an old topic but new to me. What does a deep frame with fully capped honey, weigh? I weighed one that weighed 11 pounds + an ounce or two, I have seen frames I think were more uniformly filled out that would weigh more but this is the first one I ever weighed. Extrapolating this would make a ten frame weigh about 120 pounds. That is way more than an old codger should lift so that is why I removed the frames one at a time, which is no big deal since I am a hobbyist now. Is this the norm?
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Paus,
I normally run mediums but at last months Nassau meeting, we extract 2 deep frames and got 20 pounds. So 10 pounds per frame sounds correct.
Jim Altmiller
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What kind of honey are you people getting? A medium averages 3 lb. per frame of honey, or 10 quarts per super. A deep is only 50% more than a medium, or 4 1/2 to 5 lbs. of honey. I have never extracted a deep that wouldn't go in a 5 gallon bucket.
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Generally speaking .... as we run the frames to 3/4 full - never completely packed and capped.
CPnC = lost production. Approximates:
DEEPS: 75 - 85 lbs a box. Any box over 85 lbs is overfull and you have missed out on some production.
The box alone weighs: 9.5 lbs
8 frames in a 10 frame box. 9 - 10 lbs per frame
9 frames in a 10 frame box. 7.5 - 8.5 lbs per frame
10 frames in a 10 frame box. 7 - 8 lbs per frame
Hope that helps!
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Generally speaking .... as we run the frames to 3/4 full - never completely packed and capped.
CPnC = lost production. Approximates:
DEEPS: 75 - 85 lbs a box. Any box over 85 lbs is overfull and you have missed out on some production.
The box alone weighs: 9.5 lbs
8 frames in a 10 frame box. 9 - 10 lbs per frame
9 frames in a 10 frame box. 7.5 - 8.5 lbs per frame
10 frames in a 10 frame box. 7 - 8 lbs per frame
Hope that helps!
This is very interesting Mr Claude, especially the 8 frames in a 10 frame box. So as usual, I have a question.
Do you have some sort of frame spacing tool used in order to quickly and efficiently space these frames to the proper width, or simply wing it by eye sight? The reason I ask is I like the idea of producing more honey in a same size box with less equipment. Seems like good common sense to me.
Thanks, Phillip
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Probably an old topic but new to me. What does a deep frame with fully capped honey, weigh? I weighed one that weighed 11 pounds + an ounce or two, I have seen frames I think were more uniformly filled out that would weigh more but this is the first one I ever weighed. Extrapolating this would make a ten frame weigh about 120 pounds. That is way more than an old codger should lift so that is why I removed the frames one at a time, which is no big deal since I am a hobbyist now. Is this the norm?
I saw my super had some honey for me 2 weeks ago. I finally got the energy to tackle it 90 degrees today and yes I did them one frame at a time as well. I was soaked but smiling
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I saw my super had some honey for me 2 weeks ago. I finally got the energy to tackle it 90 degrees today and yes I did them one frame at a time as well. I was soaked but smiling
:grin: pretty awesome isn't it Salty. :grin:
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Congratulations Salty,
I bet it is the best honey you have ever tasted.
Jim Altmiller
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When I helped space frames for commercial keepers they gave me a spacer but I soon learned that propolis would not let the frames slide on the rest very easily so I did like every one else I "eyeballed" them. They always put 9 frames in a 10 frame deep super. This is where I saw frames that were bigger than the one I weighed, referred to in my first post.
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When I helped space frames for commercial keepers they gave me a spacer but I soon learned that propolis would not let the frames slide on the rest very easily so I did like every one else I "eyeballed" them. They always put 9 frames in a 10 frame deep super. This is where I saw frames that were bigger than the one I weighed, referred to in my first post.
Thanks Paus I like the idea.
Phillip
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I saw my super had some honey for me 2 weeks ago. I finally got the energy to tackle it 90 degrees today and yes I did them one frame at a time as well. I was soaked but smiling
:grin: pretty awesome isn't it Salty. :grin:
I was told not to expect honey my first year. I set my expectations accordingly. What?s amazing is this is a cutout and my nucs that were purchased around the same time are no where near this haul.
Thanks Alan and Him
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I saw my super had some honey for me 2 weeks ago. I finally got the energy to tackle it 90 degrees today and yes I did them one frame at a time as well. I was soaked but smiling
:grin: pretty awesome isn't it Salty. :grin:
I was told not to expect honey my first year. I set my expectations accordingly. What?s amazing is this is a cutout and my nucs that were purchased around the same time are no where near this haul.
Thanks Alan and Him
Good deal salty! Congratulations! I have yet to extract my first honey! Being it?s the next day, how much honey did you wind up with? When you did the cutout, was you able to save the brood comb? Was there a lot of caped brood that you were able to save? If so that would be a big advantage. Apparently you did a good job on your cutout!!
Phillip
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I space eight frames and I have long ago calibrated my fingers to space them out very quickly. It is only quick if you keep your frame rests scraped after last extraction. Bees supposedly measure cell size by the length of their legs, So I guess I learned to use my front legs like them. Weighing frames is a curiosity. What counts is whats in the bucket and barrel.
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I space eight frames and I have long ago calibrated my fingers to space them out very quickly. It is only quick if you keep your frame rests scraped after last extraction. Bees supposedly measure cell size by the length of their legs, So I guess I learned to use my front legs like them. Weighing frames is a curiosity. What counts is whats in the bucket and barrel.
Thanks Vance, I appreciate your answer and tips. I will incorporate this knowledge in my program!!
Again thanks, Phillip
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I am just now getting my very first honey frames, where the bees are capping large areas. And I gotta say... It is very exciting to lift them during inspection and feel the weight of them. Amazing! I am hooked on beekeeping!
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This was interesting....
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Anyone else use 9, or even 8 frames in a 10 frame super box?
Phillip
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In my experience a ten frame deep totally packed with honey weighs 90 pounds. Most are a little less. I haven't seen them above that. But if you space them eight frames in a ten frame box, one frame may weigh 11 pounds or so.
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We have ran 7 frames in an 8 frame box. The bees blow out the frames to fill the gap. There is more honey because there are only 8 spaces in the 7 frame box compared with 9 spaces in the 8/8 system.
In a commercial situation with a automatic uncapper you end up with more honey in the cappings in a 7/8 system.
The 7/8 or 9/10 system is economic as you need less frames to run your apiary and when extracting you handle less frames. But you have more cappings honey to deal with.
We have gone back to 8/8 the reduce the pressure on the cappings press.
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Oldbeaco I have seen a honey/capping separator that looks to simplify the honey in the capping problem. It works similar to the spin cycle on a washing machine.. When the cycle is done, the capping appear to be dry to the touch, and it doesn't take long for the cycle to process.
Phillip
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Phil, there are centrifuge seperaters for cappings, the only issue i have with them is that you have to pump the slurry to the centrifuge.
Honey plus wax would need to be quite warm to be able to pump it.
In Oz they are quite expensive and you need quite a few hives to spread the cost over.
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In Oz they are quite expensive
Oldbeavo I have never priced one, but I bet they are expensive here in my Country as well. I do not know how hard it would be to make one. I am placing a video which gets down to the nitty gritty about 13 to 14 minutes in from Jeff Horchoff of "Jeff Horchoff Bees"
Titled:
"Separating over 450 pounds of honey from our wax cappings."
https://youtu.be/XnzuQ6fqMbk
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Hi Phil
Not the same as the Oz systems, his is very labour intensive and you still have to deal with the cloudy honey that comes out of the seperator.
We use a Paradise honey P100 wax press, we then settle the honey from the wax press in 10 liter buckets and when warmed to un candy the small layer of wax is on the top.
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So, the two medium 8 frame supers. Box, frames, Honey, pictured in the other post weighed in at 59.25 and 59.53.
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So, the two medium 8 frame supers. Box, frames, Honey, pictured in the other post weighed in at 59.25 and 59.53.
I dont normally weigh anything, except final output. I take total number of production hives for the year and total lbs of extracted honey, that gives me a dollar amount for production hives.
Then I can subtract costs, equals earned credit for all production hives.
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Anyone else use 9, or even 8 frames in a 10 frame super box?
Almost all my supers run a 9-frame spacer set in a 10 frame box. I have some old school spacers that hold 8 too, got from a friend of mine who was a commercial beekeeper many years ago. I haven't used them yet, but my suspicion is that I can take those fat drawn combs from my 9 frame box and drop them into the 8 and get some real heavies
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Anyone else use 9, or even 8 frames in a 10 frame super box?
Almost all my supers run a 9-frame spacer set in a 10 frame box. I have some old school spacers that hold 8 too, got from a friend of mine who was a commercial beekeeper many years ago. I haven't used them yet, but my suspicion is that I can take those fat drawn combs from my 9 frame box and drop them into the 8 and get some real heavies
Thanks Austin, the old school spacers are a good idea in my opinion, depending upon design. I watched a Tim Durhan video, (The Walls Bee Man), a few years ago where he had a hand held custom made spacer bar, it looked like the spacer design has a v shape, one for each frame along this bar. He could easily slp this in place and wiggle it a little to quickly and easily have the same space in between each frame..
Phillip
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Thanks Austin, the old school spacers are a good idea in my opinion, depending upon design. I watched a Tim Durhan video, (The Walls Bee Man), a few years ago where he had a hand held custom made spacer bar, it looked like the spacer design has a v shape, one for each frame along this bar. He could easily slip this in place and wiggle it a little to quickly and easily have the same space in between each frame..
Phillip
I have seen those before, seems like it would work well (unless the frames are propolised heavily to the box)
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"Austin"
I have seen those before, seems like it would work well (unless the frames are propolised heavily to the box)
Yes your right, good point....
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I just looked the weights up for a friend of mine and saw the post on propolis. I breed for propolis makers an havnt had any problems running the 8 frames in the supers.
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I just looked the weights up for a friend of mine and saw the post on propolis. I breed for propolis makers an havnt had any problems running the 8 frames in the supers.
Bill what do you do with the propolis? Do you sell it as well as do other things with it?
Thanks,
Phillip
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I did at one time but when I got back into keeping I contacted the company and they no longer purchased US propolis. Go figure. Even though is a pain to deal with at times. I find the heavy propolising hives are just generally stronger, healthier hives. I did see something in ABJ for a want to buy ad. Just havnt taken the time to follow up. SHAME ON ME.
I do carry a bag of it in the truck and find it useful to patch leaks or bad spots in the hives until I get new equipment to a yard.
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I did at one time but when I got back into keeping I contacted the company and they no longer purchased US propolis. Go figure. Even though is a pain to deal with at times. I find the heavy propolising hives are just generally stronger, healthier hives. I did see something in ABJ for a want to buy ad. Just havnt taken the time to follow up. SHAME ON ME.
I do carry a bag of it in the truck and find it useful to patch leaks or bad spots in the hives until I get new equipment to a yard.
What is its consistency and what do you keep it in? And what do you use to apply it?
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If your asking about whats in my truck, I carry it in a good ziplock freezer bag, (not one of the knock offs) during warm weather its the consistency I would take a stab at silly putty. The more you work it the more malleable it becomes. If its cold it gets like hardtack, but if you throw it on the dash with the defrost on again it becomes workable. To apply think again silly putty. make it soft work it and press into gap. I know it sounds kinda strange but it works well for me.