Choosing between two yard locations

[marcos]

How much difference in forage/honey production would there be between 2 different bee yard locations that are 4.5 miles apart?

I am adding a 2nd yard as I need something closer to work where I can just shoot over and do some bee work without having to drive 15 minute each way. With gas prices as they are the 30 minute round trip is getting old quick.Other than the close proximity to work and a place I drive by often anyway, I can drive my truck right up to the hives as they will be in a field out of the way from the people who live on this 30 acre property. It is close to town and has woods and suburban areas nearby, but not much AG.

The first yard is in a good spot overlooking a creek/river valley with some wetlands and lots of trees. It is somewhat suburban, but less populated with more AG and open space. In addition to it being further, it is a pain to work bees here b/c it is friends house (1 acre or so) and I can't get the truck all the way up to the hives. Also, I feel like I am invading their space by having me and my kids walk all over their property with multiple trips to the truck etc.

So what do you think? How much am I going to lose if I move most of my hives to Yard 2? I still would keep Yard 1 as a place to put splits, nucs etc

[The15thMember]

It depends.  Both wooded areas and river valleys are great for bees, and both ag and suburban can be hit or miss.  With farms and suburban areas there is pesticide exposure to be concerned about, but farms can have huge forage depending on the crop, whereas suburban areas often have blooms all year round.  If that is 4.5 miles as the crow (or bee) flies, it's doubtful the bees will overlap unless forage is scarce.  Based on your descriptions I don't think the bees would suffer at all being moved if the new location is more convenient for you.   

[FloridaGardener]

It's impossible to know difference in the quanitity of forage without having a survey of every productive tree and shrub.

Best to actually measure yourself - which hives are thriving? Are they the same bees genetically?  Maybe forage is good in early spring, better somewhere else in the fall. 

So the best thing is, where do you like working?  I had a place where I always had to text in advance to let them know when I was going to be there, and it was - well, complicated.  And I have an outyard where the homeowner says, just stop by anytime.  Guess which yard I gave up. 

[Oldbeavo]

At 4.5 miles the difference could be significant, vegetation can be different but i agree with FG if time is limited then closer the better.
I would be tempted to shift a few hives to the new location and see how they go for a while before making a major decision.

[TheHoneyPump]

Operation size for context would be helpful.  How many hives are in this?
If were me all the hives would go to the new yard, except one nuc or small/weak hive that is developing.
The idea is to move the bees to where you can comfortably be a beekeeper doing beekeeper things.  Leave the one small colony behind and over stack it a bit with supers so you rarely have to go there. Keep it merely and only as an excuse for a visit to your friend.
As for forage, the bees will find what is available but yes it is much like setting up a new store:  location location location.  The new spot must have good forage around or you would not be considering it as an option. That said unless your methods run the hives hard and push them to highest production rates; it is doubtful you will notice much difference.

Hope that helps!

[Michael Bush]

A look at maps.google.com will help you assess how much forage you think you might get.  A drive by from time to time will give you more of an idea.  Good pastures make a big difference.  But you will take better care of the ones you can drive to easily.  It's always a question of degree.  Here's my checklist:
http://bushfarms.com/beesfaqs.htm#locating

Locating hives?

"Where should I put my hive?" The problem is there isn't a simple answer. But in a list of decreasing importance I would pick these criteria with a willingness to sacrifice the less important ones altogether if they don't work out:

Safety. It's essential to have the hive where they are not a threat to animals who are chained or penned up and can't flee if they are attacked, or where they are likely to be a threat to passerbys who don't know there are hives there. If the hive is going to be close to a path that people walk you need to have a fence or something to get the bees up over the people's heads. Also face the hive away from the path or any area that people will be using a lot. For the safety of the bees they should be where cattle won't rub on them and knock them over, horses won't knock them over and bears can't get to them.

Convenient access. It's essential to have the hive where the beekeeper can drive right up to it. Carrying full supers that could weigh from 90 pounds (41kg) (deep) down to 48 pounds (22kg) (eight frame medium) any distance is too much work. The same for bringing beekeeping equipment and feed to the hives. You may have to feed as much as 50 pounds (23kg) or more of syrup to each hive and carrying it any distance is not practical. Also you will learn a lot more about bees with a hive in your backyard than a hive 20 miles (32km) away at a friend's house. Also a yard a mile or two from home will get much better care than one 60 miles (100km) from home.

Good forage. If you have a lot of options, then go for a place with lots of forage. Sweet clover, alfalfa being grown for seed, tulip poplars etc. can make the difference between bumper crops of 200 pounds (91kg) or more of honey per hive and barely scraping a living. But keep in mind the bees will not only be foraging the space you own, they will be foraging the 8,000 acres (32 square km) around the hives.

Not in your way. I think it's important the hive does not interfere with anyone's life much. In other words, don't put it right next to a well used path where, in a dearth and in a bad mood, the bees may harass or sting someone or anywhere else where you are likely to wish they weren't there.

Full sun. I find hives in full sun have fewer problems with diseases and pests and make more honey. All things being equal, I'd go for full sun. The only advantage to putting them in the shade is that you get to work them in the shade.

Out of the wind. It's nice to have them where the cold winter wind doesn't blow on them so hard and the wind is less likely to blow them over or blow off the lids. This isn't my number one requirement, but if a place is available that has a windbreak it's nice. This usually precludes putting them at the very top of a hill.

Not in a low-lying area. I don't care if they are somewhere in the middle, but I'd rather not have them where the dew and the fog and the cold settle and I really don't want them where I have to move them if there's a threat of a flood.

If you live in a very hot climate, mid afternoon shade might be a nice to have, but I wouldn't lose sleep over it.

In the end, bees are very adaptable. They really don't care, so make sure it's convenient for you, and if it's not too hard to provide, try to meet some of the other criteria. It's doubtful you'll have a place that meets all of the criteria listed above.