Beemaster's International Beekeeping Forum
BEEKEEPING LEARNING CENTER => EQUIPMENT USAGE, EXPERIMENTATION, HIVE PLANS, CONSTRUCTION TIPS AND TOOLS => Topic started by: Lesgold on November 08, 2023, 07:00:50 pm
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Hi Folks,
Just thought I?d raise this for discussion as there are just about as many beetle trapping methods out there are there are beekeepers. Most work and many work well. In the past I have used homemade traps filled with cockroach bait, a large variety of slip in traps like the Beetle blaster, Chux super wipes (I believe you guys have another name for them), trays with veggie oil and of course traps with diatomaceous earth added. They all trapped and killed beetles but every method had obvious advantages and disadvantages. I?m sure that you all have secret recipes for beetle baits or trap designs that you would like to show and share as this little pest is something that many of us deal with. I realise that in some areas beeks can manage the pest easily where as for others it is a real battle due to the overwhelming numbers involved. Obviously the amount of intervention by beekeepers will vary accordingly.
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Beetles aren't a huge problem in my apiary, so my anti-beetle measures would probably not be strong enough if you really struggle with them. Many years just making sure the bees don't have too much space to cover is enough to keep the beetles (and waxworms) under control.
For mild infestations I use Swiffer mop sheets cut into quarters, 1 per hive box, laid on a corner and sandwiched between the boxes. The beetles feet get tangled in the sheets, especially after the bees rough them up a bit trying to remove them. I do catch some bees too, but as long as I'm catching significantly more beetles than bees, I'm okay with it.
For more severe infestations I use over the frame traps (I think the brand name is Beetle Jail, but I just bought some generic ones off eBay), 1 per hive, baited with vegetable oil. I leave the dead beetles in the trap until it's full, because the dead ones seem to attract more to the trap, although I'm not sure why. :oops: I remove all anti-beetle measures over the winter because our first hard freeze will kill most of them.
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Swifter mop sheets. That?s the name I was looking for. I assume it?s the same as our Chux super wipes. I have heard that soaking them in sugar water before putting them into a hive works well. The bees tug at the sheets and roughen them up to get all of the sugar. This helps to trap more beetles. Haven?t tried it this way myself but it sounds reasonable.
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I remember Mr Van, "Van from Arkansas", posting more than once, that he liked the spray stuff in a can which is used for cleaning computers etc. and is also used for freezing warts lol. I can't remember the name of the stuff but I bet Reagan can.. :grin:
Phillip
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How did he use it Phillip? Did it have any impact on the bees? That is one idea I?ve never heard of. Are you still using oil in trays? It is a very effective method once you are set up and I know that you are a fan.
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Yeah I do. :embarassed: :rolleyes: It's freeze spray, like Phillip said there is the kind for circuit boards and the kind for skin imperfections like warts or skin tags. I think he was using the circuit board kind. Basically as he was inspecting he'd have the can right there and any time he saw a beetle he'd hit it with a blast from the freeze spray and it would freeze it dead. Probably a bit labor intensive for a severe infestation, but certainly handy for keeping a mild infestation in check.
During my final inspections of the season I pulled a frame out of one colony that had like 30 beetles all corralled by the bees, and they of course started escaping when I disturbed the frame. I was wishing I had some of Mr. Van's freeze spray then!
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diflouroethane ... also called freon 152a ... sold by office supply stores
spray upright for gas to blow dust out of a keyboard.
turn can upside down for liquid ... which rapidly evaporates and can "freeze" what it evaporates from. seems like an odd choice to me
a good contact/board cleaner is trichloroflouromethane but I kinda doubt he was using that. It has a dip tube inside the can so liquid sprays when upright
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someone as handy as les could easily make a handle that straps to the can with a trigger to depress the valve. .. sort of a pistol shape.. If I were to do it, I'd use a butane cylinder for refilling cigar lighters ... dunno what the legality would be in Australia, though.
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How did he use it Phillip? Did it have any impact on the bees? That is one idea I?ve never heard of. Are you still using oil in trays? It is a very effective method once you are set up and I know that you are a fan.
As you have most likely seen, the beetles will dip and dive from cell to cell and hide. I am thinking this is one place that he let them have it! lol
I really don't remember the details, and Reagans memories may be clearer than mine, (and is many times lol), but I do remember he took PLEASURE in zapping them with the stuff.. lol. :grin:
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Sounds like nasty stuff to me. No thanks??.
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nasty .. I pretty much agree, and don't see any need to use it. Plus, it might be good in crevices, but I'd bet it would tend to just blow the beetle away if it's in the open.
The photo is of a less than 2 minute build inspired by taking out the trash and a vitamin bottle perched on top ...
cost 1 hose clamp ... and already had that and the butane. The finger holds are cut from the butane cap. Drill one hole in the bottom of the bottle and assemble .. trigger is pushing the butane can with the thumb. I would not use it, nor recommend it.
An example of something to NOT do, if you will ... (assembled a lot of those through experience over the years, lol.)
edit to add: all of it went out with the trash after filling a torch with the butane.
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How did he use it Phillip? Did it have any impact on the bees? That is one idea I?ve never heard of. Are you still using oil in trays? It is a very effective method once you are set up and I know that you are a fan.
As you have most likely seen, the beetles will dip and dive from cell to cell and hide. I am thinking this is one place that he let them have it! lol
I really don't remember the details, and Reagans memories may be clearer than mine, (and is many times lol), but I do remember he took PLEASURE in zapping them with the stuff.. lol. :grin:
Sounds like nasty stuff to me. No thanks??.
>Sounds like nasty stuff to me. No thanks??
Don't like it, don't try it.. lol The title of the topic is "What's your favourite style of small hive beetle trap and why do you use it?" I'm not trying to convince anyone to try Mr Van's favorite. I have not tried it myself. But it is another "style" when trapping a single hiding beetle in a single empty cell, and I figured it might have been interesting to some who might not have been here when he was talking about it, so I threw it out there for the benefit of giving a variety in answers as I assumed was the intent of the topic..
> Are you still using oil in trays?
When I find it necessary oil trays are 'very' effective.. Once they have been in place for a while, It really knocks beetles back, and steady use in not so much necessary as Paus and Beemaster2 have explained on other topics.. I agree with them and yes, I still highly recommend its use for effectiveness..
I do not use a full tray of oil as others have defined. I put water in the tray and a heavy dash, or what might be considered a 'guzzle' of Mothers Vinegar 'in' the water. 'Then' I add a good coat of the oil on top, (used oil is better in my opinion), as a buffer for retarding evaporation, and to coat the beetles when they fall in.. When I first posted this home formula, Mr Van, a retired Published Scientist, and respected member here, as well as a friend, commended me as this being a tri-purpose plus formula. He said the three ingredients work together for good. One; the water saves on the use of oil. Two; the Mothers Vinegar may help attract SHB but would also help retard mold. Three; The use of oil, and the beetles falling into it is obvious..
I hope this helps.
Phillip
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Good thinking Phillip. Does the smell of the vinegar come through the layer of oil? I have heard that apple cider vinegar and yeast products attract the beetle but they are a couple of areas I have not experimented with. Your recipe gets ☑️☑️☑️ for thinking outside the box. With screened bottom boards, this method would be a winner.
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Good thinking Phillip. Does the smell of the vinegar come through the layer of oil? I have heard that apple cider vinegar and yeast products attract the beetle but they are a couple of areas I have not experimented with. Your recipe gets ☑️☑️☑️ for thinking outside the box. With screened bottom boards, this method would be a winner.
Thanks Les for the encouraging and kind words.
Honestly Les; I can't detect the Mothers Vinegar smell. Perhaps the SHB can? As they are said to be attracted to a hive from miles away. I 'can say' this works well for me..
Phillip
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but I do remember he took PLEASURE in zapping them with the stuff.. lol. :grin:
trapping a single hiding beetle in a single empty cell,
who wouldn't ... certain things are just downright fun :cool:
now the single cell example makes it seem really worthwhile. Luckily, I haven't had to deal with that (only finding them corralled at the top)
As far as being nasty goes, it does evaporate and dissipate incredibly quickly so there's that. It'll get you high as a kite if it's concentrated and you breathe it. Who knows? The bees might even like it. It'd be funny to see the bees cluster around a beetle every time they see the can come out. :cheesy:
Seriously tho .. Ben's recipe .. that's what I use and it works great !
I don't remember him specifying used oil, he may have and I missed it, but that's what I used also (because I'm cheap).
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Les there are other methods which are effective against SHB as well. I am looking forward to other members pointing some of those methods out.
Phillip
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who wouldn't ... certain things are just downright fun :cool:
:shocked: :wink: :cheesy: Agreed again!!
Phillip
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One method that I see available in beekeeping supply stores is beetle traps with sticky boards concealed within the trap. Has anyone tried these and do they work well? I would be interested to hear people?s opinions.
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I don't remember him specifying used oil, he may have and I missed it, but that's what I used also (because I'm cheap).
Animal I might have forgotten to mention that part... I am glad to hear of your success!!!!
Phillip
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One method that I see available in beekeeping supply stores is beetle traps with sticky boards concealed within the trap. Has anyone tried these and do they work well? I would be interested to hear people?s opinions.
Same here...
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It looks like I'm in zone 6b, am I going to have to deal with these beetles?
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Small hive beetles are endemic to the US. No matter where you live you will have them.
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I'm under the impression though that the colder your winters the less of a problem they are in most cases. Would you more northern beekeepers agree with that?
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Michigan seems to have a lot of problems with SHB. I think the soil type matters more and a hard winter helps. I get -27 F sometimes in the winter and I still have issues if a hive gets weak. By issues I mean slimed and destroyed and dead. The worst is no freezing and sandy soil.
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I have hard freezes and heavy clay soil. I have never seen a small hive beetle.
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I should have also said humidity. High humidity, sandy soil and no freezing is the worst (for the beekeeper). Dry, clay soil and cold winters is the best (for the beekeeper). SHB eggs won't hatch unless the humidity is high. Hard clay soil slows the larvae down. Freezing kills any larvae that are not deep enough.
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I'm under the impression though that the colder your winters the less of a problem they are in most cases. Would you more northern beekeepers agree with that?
I have heard this too and is why I was asking. I'll find out sooner or later, eh.
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The clay soil is probably what holds them down in my area. We have warmish winters and high humidity, and I do have bad years for them, but it's not a constant problem for me.
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Most of my hives are on very poor ground. It is hard and depth of soil is only a few mm until you hit decomposed shale. Most of the time beetle numbers are stable but during warm periods where the ground is moist, beetle numbers are higher. I have a few hives on sand about 15 minutes drive from home. Beetle numbers are huge in this area. I did have issues with beetles breeding in my worm farms when fruit and vegetables were used to feed the worms. The beetle numbers in my hives obviously went to silly levels at that time. I now feed the worms on coffee grounds and the beetles have disappeared from the worm beds.