Beemaster's International Beekeeping Forum
BEEKEEPING LEARNING CENTER => NATURAL & ORGANIC BEEKEEPING METHODS => Topic started by: charentejohn on August 10, 2020, 07:05:48 am
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Well I think it is anyway. My first post here and nice to find somewhere with a TF section where I hope we can all just get along, also a Warre section :happy:
I have a couple of other questions but better in another section. So I just thought you may like this guy, he started and ran a TF apiary 35yrs ago, so not a new starter with wild ideas. Having moved cross country (USA) he is setting up again and documenting it. He has a direct style, also for anyone going commercial TF he may be of interest, I only have 2 hives so industrial side not for me.
Nice mite bomb presentation - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5w7JvRsn_AI&feature=youtu.be&fbclid=IwAR1pCaeWZAMxUwzILvDE2NRrI2nvuOM3yH3opZc8no4l3nx3ix4eoTbRDeM
Why can't we get along, basically it would be nice if new TF keepers (like me) could talk to treating keepers. As he points out many new TF keepers have failures due to inexperience not lack of chemicals. Would be nice if clubs and such would allow them to join and help them while allowing for their views. As Nelson Mandela said-If you want to make peace with your enemy, you have to work with your enemy. Then he becomes your partner.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M4djuHci6fE&feature=youtu.be&fbclid=IwAR2blnBk_RbdolIst_ouyIqDkI8AmCAJjUWHRr40a-T0BL4p-3LdtdA1s28
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This is a Natural and Organic section. Not strictly a TF section. But welcome! :grin:
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This is a Natural and Organic section. Not strictly a TF section. But welcome! :grin:
Ah, so mentioning having an MMK thermal as a back up while trying to become TF will not get bricks thrown at me? Seems to every where else :cry:
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Ah, so mentioning having an MMK thermal as a back up while trying to become TF will not get bricks thrown at me? Seems to every where else :cry:
You will find there are very few if any brick throwers on Beemaster. :beemaster:
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Well I think it is anyway. My first post here and nice to find somewhere with a TF section where I hope we can all just get along, also a Warre section :happy:
This is a Natural and Organic section. Not strictly a TF section. But welcome! :grin:
Ah, so mentioning having an MMK thermal as a back up while trying to become TF will not get bricks thrown at me? Seems to every where else :cry:
Wow William, Is it really that bad at other Forums? Relax and welcome to beemaster.. :grin:
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Wow William, Is it really that bad at other Forums? Relax and welcome to beemaster.. :grin:
Not on the ones I post to but there are inconsistencies in they way thermal is tolerated verses the organic acids. Those have been around much longer and are accepted as a necessary evil. Mention thermal and someone will always pipe up and remind you that it is in fact a treatment. Duh. Knew that before I spent my money.
For me, true chemical free is an achievable goal even for a newbie. Total TF is much harder but an even more important long term goal. Believe thermal is the current best 'crutch' to get there for those lacking the finances to go full bond. Now if I had Bill Gates money I could hire Michael Bush to set me up a 1,000 hive yard and give it a try :wink:
Not even fired mine up yet and could not treat every hive if I did. Only have a single ten frame unit so the two nucs would be very difficult to treat with it. Also have two top bars and a Warre (recently bought from someone moving out of state) that are impossible. Even if I had a narrow five frame unit the top bars would require extensive modification. BTW production of MMK is currently on hold due to supply chain issues and once it resumes only eights and tens will be produced. No new fives for a long time.
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Wow William, Is it really that bad at other Forums? Relax and welcome to beemaster.. :grin:
Not on the ones I post to but there are inconsistencies in they way thermal is tolerated verses the organic acids. Those have been around much longer and are accepted as a necessary evil. Mention thermal and someone will always pipe up and remind you that it is in fact a treatment. Duh. Knew that before I spent my money.
For me, true chemical free is an achievable goal even for a newbie. Total TF is much harder but an even more important long term goal. Believe thermal is the current best 'crutch' to get there for those lacking the finances to go full bond. Now if I had Bill Gates money I could hire Michael Bush to set me up a 1,000 hive yard and give it a try :wink:
Not even fired mine up yet and could not treat every hive if I did. Only have a single ten frame unit so the two nucs would be very difficult to treat with it. Also have two top bars and a Warre (recently bought from someone moving out of state) that are impossible. Even if I had a narrow five frame unit the top bars would require extensive modification. BTW production of MMK is currently on hold due to supply chain issues and once it resumes only eights and tens will be produced. No new fives for a long time.
Thanks William, Mr Bush is a nice fellow, he will help you with advice freely! 😬 I would think a beekeeper would be open minded to the possibility of organic treatments as you mentioned. I suppose some are not, even though Organic is a powerful word!😬Pesticide free!
You mentioned organic and that has to be a good thing as opposed to the choice of losing a hive or in extreme cases, many hives to mites whether by direct kill or by the killing of the viruses they carry. I, like you, like the idea of thermal. What can possibly be more natural than that as an aid to helping our bees? Mr Live Oak, whom I have great respect, has talked of thermal here. His drawback was, if I remember correctly, is time of treatment. I made some suggestions to him as to how make it more productive. I have not heard back from him on this, but I really think my theory was a good plan for a person that is interested in going that route. I suppose that has been at least a year ago.
I do not think folks will bash you here for you idea of your good method (thermal), at least they should not in my opinion.
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I did think TF was a natural as you can get, must have misunderstood. Organic is abit more wide ranging.
Nothing will ever be interference free but I will try to be as hands off as I can.
I think (not sure) Scot's view, not being a 'bee hugger' like myself, is that babying them is just wasting time and money commercially as if you replace failed ones they will sort themselves out. You have to cost in the chemicals and the amount of time spent inspecting and treating, especially in a large operation as they can obviosly function without any of that.
What is the thermal system as I have only seen the expensive boxes people put brood frames in to heat them up. Also read they are still trying to determine if the heat affects brood health long term but as ever inconclusive.
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"I did think TF was a natural as you can get, must have misunderstood."
Yes, you must have misunderstood. TF is as natural as you can get. I am all for you and TF if this is you desire.
As I said before, this is not just a treatment free heading alone.
NATURAL & ORGANIC BEEKEEPING METHODS
methods being plural.
As I said to William,
"I, like you, like the idea of thermal. What can possibly be more natural than that as an aid to helping our bees? "
The question is how effective is thermal? I do not know.
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I think I see where all the posts saying this is not a TF section came from, wondered why the cosntant references, because I said good to find a TF section.
I think a lot was read into that but I suppose I should have said section where I can discuss TF as an option. Not many places you can do that as the full on treatment people tend to chip in a lot. Just good to be able to discuss outcomes and options of TF and have people just say what they do or prefer rather than saying it is wrong stop it now.
I will make sure to be clearer in future.
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John,
Welcome to Beemaster.
To my way of thinking, you posted this in the correct section because your video is supporting natural beekeeping.
I enjoyed the video. Thanks.
By the way, if you or anyone else ever feels they are being attacked, just PM me. We do not allow it here.
I have been on a lot of sites that that seems to be the norm. That is why I?m only on BeeMaster now.
Jim Altmiller
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(I think I see where all the posts saying this is not a TF section came from)
I hope so but to be clear, I made the reference twice. The first time because of you claim that this is a TF section, and to point out it is not a solely a TF section. I went on to welcomed you and your views in post 1.
The second reference came directly from your statement (I did think TF was a natural as you can get, must have misunderstood.)
Seemed a little sarcastic to me as well as intolerant. Perhaps you can be a little clearer about that statement in the present? No one here has insulted you. No one here has made you feel unwelcome. No one here has tried to sway your thinking, or force their thoughts on you or argue with you in any way.? We can not help how your views wee accepted or not accepted at other places. Yet you start out with theses negotiates. Why?
Once again, Your thoughts and views are welcome. I hope you can say the same about others here whose thoughts and views that may be different from your own.
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(I think I see where all the posts saying this is not a TF section came from)
I hope so but to be clear, I made the reference twice. The first time because of you claim that this is a TF section, and to point out it is not a solely a TF section. I went on to welcomed you and your views in post 1.
The second reference came directly from your statement (I did think TF was a natural as you can get, must have misunderstood.)
Seemed a little sarcastic to me as well as intolerant. Perhaps you can be a little clearer about that statement in the present? No one here has insulted you. No one here has made you feel unwelcome. No one here has tried to sway your thinking, or force their thoughts on you or argue with you in any way.? We can not help how your views wee accepted or not accepted at other places. Yet you start out with theses negotiates. Why?
Once again, Your thoughts and views are welcome. I hope you can say the same about others here whose thoughts and views that may be different from your own.
Thanks Jim grammar correction as follows.
"I think I see where all the posts saying this is not a TF section came from"
I hope so but to be clear, I made the reference twice. The first time because of your claim that this is a TF section, and to point out it is not solely a TF section. I went on and welcomed you and your views in post 1.
The second reference came directly from your statement (I did think TF was a natural as you can get, must have misunderstood.)
Seemed a little sarcastic to me as well as intolerant. Perhaps you can be a little clearer about that statement in the present? No one here has insulted you. No one here has made you feel unwelcome. No one here has tried to sway your thinking, or force their thoughts on you or argue with you in any way. We can not help how your views were accepted or not accepted at other places. Yet you start out with theses negotiates. Why?
Once again, Your thoughts and views are welcome. I hope you can say the same about others here, whose thoughts and views might be different from your own?
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Ben, please take it easy. Not sarcastic, not intolerant and I am not offended or insulted by anything.
My statemesnt was done the best way I knew. TF is a natural way of keeping, and I think it is the most natural (as regards chemicals) as it advocates nothing.
I misuderstood natural vs TF definitions and tried to explain why. So please don't do this as all is well, I made a mistake tried to explain it and expressed a view that I though TF was very natural, I still do. I can see you were offended by the double post of your reply but whatever you saw in my post was not meant to offend so all friends again ?
Thinking of Natural / TF definitions did make me consider Scot's system of keeping mimics the wild as far as it can. His videos are here https://www.facebook.com/groups/BeekeepingFromScratch/
Basically letting them die out and replacing with splits mimics bee life, some wild hives die out and are occupied by swarms from others, one of his videos explains how he does this. He does no other treatments as far as I know, no drone culling etc. It is an interesting concept that someone can do this commercially, and always has done. Again a great explanation of letting them live a natural life in a commercial operation. I am not commercial but will try to use my bees to create two 'wild' hives as a hedge against mine dying out sometime. As he points out you never know when you may need them.
That video is here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=48owKabnnTY&feature=youtu.be&fbclid=IwAR1qbIBwSMML9Tw750tlgkRU2vK52HELYT2LXuaU3QVLO7ydrX7FJzqvE08
I am just a 'bee hugger' with only two Warres for now so the commercial side is not for me but I do like his direct and informative style.
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Perhaps I am a little foolish to consider myself treatment free. After all, I am only in my second year. I cannot say that I am able to maintain an apiary long term without treatment yet. But that is where I am trying to go. I have not treated for mites yet, and intend not to. I know there are beeks on the forum who do not treat and are making it. Eventually I hope to join their rank of success in that endeavor. I may well fail. We shall see. But if I do fail, it will not be for lack of sound advice from this diverse and supportive forum
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Ben, please take it easy. Not sarcastic, not intolerant and I am not offended or insulted by anything.
My statemesnt was done the best way I knew. TF is a natural way of keeping, and I think it is the most natural (as regards chemicals) as it advocates nothing.
I misuderstood natural vs TF definitions and tried to explain why. So please don't do this as all is well, I made a mistake tried to explain it and expressed a view that I though TF was very natural, I still do. I can see you were offended by the double post of your reply but whatever you saw in my post was not meant to offend so all friends again ?
Thinking of Natural / TF definitions did make me consider Scot's system of keeping mimics the wild as far as it can. His videos are here https://www.facebook.com/groups/BeekeepingFromScratch/
Basically letting them die out and replacing with splits mimics bee life, some wild hives die out and are occupied by swarms from others, one of his videos explains how he does this. He does no other treatments as far as I know, no drone culling etc. It is an interesting concept that someone can do this commercially, and always has done. Again a great explanation of letting them live a natural life in a commercial operation. I am not commercial but will try to use my bees to create two 'wild' hives as a hedge against mine dying out sometime. As he points out you never know when you may need them.
>"Ben, please take it easy.
I did not take it hard but at face value, wanting to be clear, I ask you to explain. Thanks for you explanation.
> "I can see you were offended by the double post of your reply but whatever you saw in my post"
Wrong : I assume your are referring to reply 11 and 12. The double post was because Jim The Administrator edited my first post. (11). If you will read the bottom of reply 11 you will see it clearly. I had some grammar that needed to be corrected in post 11. I clearly explained this If you would have read closely. I did not want to, or felt it proper, to edit or change what the Administrator had handled. Therefore I corrected the grammar without interfering with the moderator by reposting 12 as I explained at the very beginning of 12 . Never considering more misunderstanding.
Just to once again be clear, I was not, and am not offended by your previous post toward me either. Very puzzled? Yes... .... Wishing you the best in your bees.
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Perhaps I am a little foolish to consider myself treatment free. After all, I am only in my second year. I cannot say that I am able to maintain an apiary long term without treatment yet. But that is where I am trying to go. I have not treated for mites yet, and intend not to. I know there are beeks on the forum who do not treat and are making it. Eventually I hope to join their rank of success in that endeavor. I may well fail. We shall see. But if I do fail, it will not be for lack of sound advice from this diverse and supportive forum
"I know there are beeks on the forum who do not treat and are making it."
Yes Cao if a great example Bob. He now has many hives. Not only is he making it, he is expanding. This decision is strictly for each individual to consider and make a decision for themselves. Wishing you the best.
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Perhaps I am a little foolish to consider myself treatment free. After all, I am only in my second year. I cannot say that I am able to maintain an apiary long term without treatment yet. But that is where I am trying to go. I have not treated for mites yet, and intend not to. I know there are beeks on the forum who do not treat and are making it. Eventually I hope to join their rank of success in that endeavor. I may well fail. We shall see. But if I do fail, it will not be for lack of sound advice from this diverse and supportive forum
Mr. Bob, splitting or letting hives naturally swarm are excellent tools to reduce mite loads. A hive is deprived of capped brood for about 3 weeks when a swarm occurs. We know mites change their physiology when capped brood is absent. This change in physiology occurs again when brood is about to be capped but it takes the mites time to adjust to reproduction mode. All the while 1-2 percent of mites are eliminated daily. Mite drop by bees grooming, mites are carried off into the field, all said about 1-2 percent reduction of mites takes place naturally after a swarm occurs and there is no capped brood for mite reproduction. Also mites are carried of by the swarm itself.
So natural swarming is an excellent was to reduce mite loads. Recap:
1. Natural mite drop 1-2 percent per day
A. Without capped brood the mites attach you the bees, some bees with mites attached leave the hive never to return.
B. Again, bees leave the hive with mites and mites just fall of the bees.
2. Natural grooming causes the mites to fall off the bees.
3. A change in mite reproduction physiology takes place if no capped brood is present. When brood is available, this upgrade in reproduction physiology takes time.
4. No capped brood for 3 weeks after a swarm. Mites cannot reproduce without capped brood.
So swarming by bees is an excellent, natural method for reducing mite load in a hive. Splitting a hive produces similar results if the split is to raise its own queens, again causing a period with absence of capped brood.
Mites double every 3 weeks in a hive with capped brood. A critical point of about 7.8 mites per hundred bees, rounded to 8 percent is the critical point for Spring hive collapse. Any mite level above 8 percent during warm months is cause for collapse in the future.
Mites above 8 percent will double to 16 percent in 3 weeks, 32 percent in 6 weeks, 64 percent in 9 weeks. By 12 weeks the mites easily collapse the hive at 128 percent, more mites than bees. However the hive actually collapses before the 128 percent is reached.
Same scenario with 1 percent mite rate:
Starting with one percent mite per hundred bees; remember mites double every 3 weeks.
3 weeks later, 2 percent
6 weeks later, 4 percent
9 weeks later, 8 percent
12 weeks later, 16 percent mite level compared to 128 percent. That is a lot difference.
So Mr. Bob, if a hive swarms and subsequent mite load is reduced below critical points the hive can prosper. I admire the goal to be treatment free. You got my support.
Cheers
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Good post Mr Van, very well laid out.
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Well, just to throw my two cents in....
In my opinion TF qualifies as a natural and organic method.
Welcome!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Well, just to throw my two cents in....
In my opinion TF qualifies as a natural and organic method.
Welcome!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I agree, as natural as you can get. How can anyone think any differently?
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Van,
Since swarming can reduce mites and mites are worse in late summer, then perhaps I should ...
1. Build a big spring population.
2. Pack in honey during April-May-early June.
3. Split or induce swarming in late June/July to reduce the mite load. However, June-August are our hot, dearth months.
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Bob,
If you are going to split in June/July then you will need to make strong splits. That is full brood boxes and you will need to leave honey or feed. You could also make packed Nuc boxes and keep them nucs through winter. Just put two nucs side by side to share heat.
Jim Altmiller
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As part of something else I am looking at for my hives the future regarding what I can do and survival in winter Scot mentioned (on a different forum) someting I hadn't considered. Not sure where this goes but as brood breaks when and why were mentioned tis may be a good place.
He pointed out that left to their own devices the bees may become 'honey bound' and that people try to avoid this, easier if I paste his reply below, this was related to my asking when the winter cluster bees start to be created hence the seemingly unrelated Temp flow dearth bit.
Temp, Flow vs Dearth, origin of queen as you noted (local only thank you). But also and this is one that I think is lost on many beekeepers since they manage the bees to prevent it, but the brood nest getting honey bound. This is something that occurs in nature that beekeeper avoid at all costs. Being honey bound at the right times of the year is part of a colony lifecycle, stops brood rearing at key times (just as the flows are ending and dearths are beginning), and once the colony is honey bound, the bees start eating the honey which slowly makes room for the queen to begin laying again. I think this should happen at least once during the spring flow, and once during the fall flow to totally shut down the brood for a couple weeks. Yes it needs to be managed so the bees swarm when you want them to and don't swarm when you don't want them to, but I still think it's important for the bees' health to happen.
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Sawdstmakr,
That gives me something to think about. The gears in my brain are chugging along.
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What is the thermal system as I have only seen the expensive boxes people put brood frames in to heat them up. Also read they are still trying to determine if the heat affects brood health long term but as ever inconclusive.
Sorry, got busy... The MMK is a heater sandwiched between aluminum plates which slides in the bottom of the hive. Control box and remote temperature senser then heats the hive to 106 degrees F. Went with it rather than the slightly cheaper Victor since it seems to be a more mature product with a larger user base. They have their own forum which is unfortunately on Facebook :angry:
Works by killing mites in capped brood and sterilizing phoretic mites that get exposed to at least 102 degrees. Naturally field bees which miss the treatment will still have viable mites.
Slow, at three hours per treatment. Expensive but no where near as expensive as Thermosolar. And currently unavailable... Anticipated the supply chain issues and bought mine back in February before I even had bees :shocked:
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charentejohn you and Bob might find this interesting.
Google
Treatment-free beekeeping | No Pesticides | Clean Honey | Bee ...
beedelightful.com/learn-more/treatment-fee...
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Ben, looked and lots of stuff on there, anything you like in particular.
William, haven't seen the heaters. Not sure on the process as no real info but heating the whole hive seems like it may be a problem ? Brood is maintained by the bees at 32-35c whereas 106f is 41C so I have a feeling the bees will just work to reduce brood temp, unless air flow is restricted in the process ?
Ironically we have had massive heat here (well is for me) at 40c and a thermometer by the bees showed max of 40 and regularly 35-38c. My concern was internal heating, I know they can handle it as if it rises above normal they will reduce it, but costs in energy wasted.
Rooting around I found something that said phoretic Varroa die at 46c and they considered that bees may go to a hotter part of the hive to kill them off. I was concerned that my hives, in the shade but some people have them in full sun, would reach more than that. The idea was bees would seek out the hot part for 90mins to kill the varroa. Possible but not convinced as if bees knew the varroa was there they would try to remove it.
Interesting all round though as african countries have less of a problem and hives will be very hot. I found an aricle on Ethiopian bees, search for 'The most interesting observation in the present study' in the document in the Discussion section. Idea is they may suppress breeding in the varroa, maybe ours can too if not disrupted ? https://journals.plos.org/plosone/article?id=10.1371/journal.pone.0223236
I like them because they say looks promising but need work, goo attitude :grin:
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> Not sure on the process as no real info but heating the whole hive seems like it may be a problem ?
I do not know a lot about it but I did watch a video a year or so ago by Bruce bees 🐝 if I remember correctly. It was interesting. Later I will try and find it for you.
Bruce is in Alabama
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> Not sure on the process as no real info but heating the whole hive seems like it may be a problem ?
I do not know a lot about it but I did watch a video a year or so ago by Bruce bees 🐝 if I remember correctly. It was interesting. Later I will try and find it for you.
Bruce is in Alabama
I was mistaken, it was Woolie Bees Apiary (Sorry Woolie)
https://youtu.be/6x3-WO4nQo0
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Scary, at least 3 months ago he said in reply to the question from a viewer, did it work ? No killed all the brood would not use again.
Basically the bees try to keep the brood at 32c so I guess the relentless heat (normally they could cool using water and fanning) meant they failed and the brood died.
There is info online about brood damage from high heat, as ever not obvious immediately.
If they wanted to kill the varroa in the brood they could just have removed the frame (see shook swarm post) same result less stress but really needed ?
I have to say for me any such intervention is just confusing them. The bees control temperature and I never understood internal winter heaters either. I trust their judgement, shame they aren't able to expalin their plan :smile:
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Scary, at least 3 months ago he said in reply to the question from a viewer, did it work ? No killed all the brood would not use again.
Basically the bees try to keep the brood at 32c so I guess the relentless heat (normally they could cool using water and fanning) meant they failed and the brood died.
There is info online about brood damage from high heat, as ever not obvious immediately.
If they wanted to kill the varroa in the brood they could just have removed the frame (see shook swarm post) same result less stress but really needed ?
I have to say for me any such intervention is just confusing them. The bees control temperature and I never understood internal winter heaters either. I trust their judgement, shame they aren't able to expalin their plan :smile:
Well that is a bummer! Hopefully William Bagwell will be more careful and have better results?
In case you missed it, I posted a new topic yesterday titled ''A Treat for No Treaters'' under this same heading, (NATURAL & ORGANIC BEEKEEPING METHODS). I had you and Bob Wilson in mind when I posted it. The publisher, gets down to the nuts and bolts deeper into the video. Well worth a non-treaters time.
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Ben, did see that and have been looking for a couple of related things.
I actually see mechanical, like heating, things as ot helping. Cooking varroa in the cells is a little nuts and helps the bees not at all. They still have to cope with future varroa or will they get a roasting for the rest of their lives.
The more I dig the more I can see they have many ways to control varroa if not distracted.
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Well that is a bummer! Hopefully William Bagwell will be more careful and have better results?
Just watched the video. Less than ideal test: Very first treatment with inadequate instructions plus he made at least one mistake in placing the sensor too high. Mentions in the comments that he only received a half page of instructions, mine came with three pages and I am aware they have been updated slightly since February.
Apparently also failed to remove the closure stick at the correct time. So yes his hive had a set back. Parts of it went above the set temperature resulting in a total brood break instead of just the infected.
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I posted this in another section but thought the quote may lend to this topic also as food for thought.
Quote Ben Framed from August !8,2020 Topic: Well... crap.... Reply 13
I for one, know little about Mite Away. I have studied formic flash but I have not tried it. A fellow from Germany taught me while using formic flash, the art is mathematics. For example He ( and others) tell me the treating range is 10 to 30 Celsius. I have not tried it as of yet, but in the south where I live, humidity is usually VERY HIGH. I would not follow that recommend high temp of 30c /86f. Just my opinion.
Formic, from what I understand is a tricky avenue, but when mastered, (also from what I understand) is an excellent organic avenue. Ridding the colony of mites both non-capped as well as caped brood.
As far as mathematics I will give an example of what I was taught. For formic flash formula; 40, minus temperature equals ml of 65 percent formic added per box. Translated. 22C / 76f: 40 - 22 equals 18. 18ml will be the amount of 65 percent formic set for each box (that day). The entrance must be reduced and no open screen bottoms.
I am not recommending something I have not tried or proven MYSELF and have proved by my very own example, PROVED to be SUCCESSFUl. Be it formic, or even treatment free, or anything else that I have not proven personally.
I, as Mr Van, use the organic Oxalic and can, from experience, recommend it. Even oxalic has to be used correctly and timing is a VERY important factor because it WILL NOT effect mites protected inside of capped brood.
I am thinking this is where many OA users miss the boat. They treat, say in August. (one or two times). Them again in December (as a timeline accepted by many experts in America month wise), yet still may lose hives to varroa destructor. Leaving them scratching there head in wondering, (Why did this hive die of mites? I treated!) For this very reason some professional beekeepers use Apivar strips in August. No danger as formic with risk of abscond yet effective. And no troubles associated with formic such as Queen loss.
Food for thought.
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Well that is a bummer! Hopefully William Bagwell will be more careful and have better results?
Just watched the video. Less than ideal test: Very first treatment with inadequate instructions plus he made at least one mistake in placing the sensor too high. Mentions in the comments that he only received a half page of instructions, mine came with three pages and I am aware they have been updated slightly since February.
Apparently also failed to remove the closure stick at the correct time. So yes his hive had a set back. Parts of it went above the set temperature resulting in a total brood break instead of just the infected.
William I noticed this also and is the reason I suggested you may be more successful in your use. I clearly could see the room for improvement as well as following directions.
I did not read the comments but can clearly see where and why they failed. How are things progressing for you?
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Well that is a bummer! Hopefully William Bagwell will be more careful and have better results?
In case you missed it, I posted a new topic yesterday titled ''A Treat for No Treaters'' under this same heading, (NATURAL & ORGANIC BEEKEEPING METHODS). I had you and Bob Wilson in mind when I posted it. The publisher, gets down to the nuts and bolts deeper into the video. Well worth a non-treaters time.
Ben, did see that and have been looking for a couple of related things.
I actually see mechanical, like heating, things as ot helping. Cooking varroa in the cells is a little nuts and helps the bees not at all. They still have to cope with future varroa or will they get a roasting for the rest of their lives.
The more I dig the more I can see they have many ways to control varroa if not distracted.
Glad you took a look, I am wondering if you and I are once again in miscommunication. :shocked: lol:
Let me ask seeking to be clear. Did you look at the new topic ''A Treat for No Treaters'' under this same Heading, (NATURAL & ORGANIC BEEKEEPING METHODS)?
Actually Richard Noel the video maker, was not speaking of mechanical or heating. He was speaking of a network of researching beekeepers who have joined forces from all over the world, sharing up to the minute information and notes of success and failures of their efforts in developing a TF bee. This a very modern and intensive approach with very intelligent keepers sharing not only information, but bees themselves as breeding stock in the cooperative effort to develop a bee with the desired trait in a TF (bloodline), if you will, which will resist varroa destructor. A very honorable cause, well worth noting in my humble opinion.
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William I noticed this also and is the reason I suggested you may be more successful in your use. I clearly could see the room for improvement as well as following directions.
I did not read the comments but can clearly see where and why they failed. How are things progressing for you?
Kind of wish I had caught a big swarm of bright yellow Italians with a marked queen. Then I would have the perfect excuse to try my MMK.
Actually need to watch the video a second time and pay more attention to the video and less to the comments.
Up to seven hives at the moment, was briefly at eight. Started in March with a nuc from a successful TF beek. Moved it to a ten frame the day I got it. At two weeks did an inspection and added a medium. Thirteen days later they swarmed! Thought I had all the time in the world but had missed queen cups. Knew there were no cells and afterwards found the cups in the photos taken that day. Caught the swarm BTW and it is going strong. Also made a split which is still doing good. Origional is now a dead out. Between a swarm, split and at least one small after swarm it had too much room for the number of bees...
Little over a month ago bought out someone who is moving out of state. (Also a TF beek) Six hives, five with bees. Four are caught swarms one has a VSH queen. Mishmash of equipment so I now have a Warre, two top bars and two more langs to go with the two I already had. (hive & nuc each) The one empty hive is a cathedral style.
So basically have been busy! Monitoring the mite drop on the ones I can and not seeing anything alarming.
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William you are on the ball making steady forward progress! Keep up the good work and let us know how your thermal treatment is delivering, as you use and learn more, please.