Diagnosis help, dry larvae, some dark discoloration

[iddee]

I may kill the bees and freeze the equipment before reusing it, but I would never burn it.  EFB will not lie dormant for years like AFB will.

[Van, Arkansas, USA]

Iddee, you are correct, EFB does not produce spores as with AFB.  You choice of freezing would most likely kill any remaining EFB.  Freezing causes crystallization and crystallization is what actually kill the EFB.  Somebody taught you well or you studied.

However, just personal preference, I would go with what Capt44 texted and immediately burn the hive.  Just personal preference, Iddee, I am not disagreeing with you, as I realize freezing would most likely cause resolve.

Also I might add, Capt44 is my EBrother, Purple Heart receiptent along with a chest full of other metals.  My EBrother (Richard) crawled out of a helicopter crash 3 times, twice as the only survivor concluding 3 tours of Vietnam.  Iddee, as a veteran yourself of Vietnam I thought it good for you to know.  Capt44 was the machine gunner in the sky protecting our heros on the ground.  Bless you both for risking your lives maintaining my freedom that I took for granted.
Blessings

[iddee]

Thanks for that, Van.
I thought, from his screen name, that he was the captain I served with in 'nam in the 44th preventive medical unit, thus Capt. 44.

[yes2matt]

Update:

No word from the inspector yet. I don't like when phone calls take four days to be returned and appointments break with no communication. I'm sure the inspector is busy with full-size operations but still...

No particular strong smell, but maybe a faint whiff of funk.

The move and feed for a week didn't help by the looks of it. Three half-frames of broodnest, with half the brood gone.

So I'm thinking here are my options:
> pursue the medication path, really for my own education, since it's a three frame colony, not worth a durn. Do I get a 'script from the inspector?
> leave em alone, keep them on feed, see what happens. Maybe they'll pull out, maybe they'll get the other colonies sick too.
> put them all in the freezer right now.
> ??

Thanks for all the help so far. I'm so glad I moved my other bees to another yard. They're doing great!

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[beepro]

When I lose 20 good drawn frames with cap broods and larvae all diseased, I started the  antibiotic session for
curing EFB using online diagnosis infos.  Back then I can get the medicine from the bee store downtown.   It is better than waiting or having the
disease spread across my other healthy hives.   It is only 3 framers so how much you got to lose?

[iddee]

Check your pm's.

[Michael Bush]

http://www.bushfarms.com/beespests.htm#efb

A brood break is very effective.  A new queen usually helps as well.

[yes2matt]

http://www.bushfarms.com/beespests.htm#efb

A brood break is very effective.  A new queen usually helps as well.

After talking to Wally on the phone and reading your page, I'll add two options to the list.
> Take a good frame of brood and a frame of stores from a healthy colony, put it in a new box. Shake all the adult bees and the Q  from the sick colony into the new box. All the frames from the sick colony go in the freezer.
> Pull the Q only to a little split from a healthy colony. Let the sick colony bee until all brood is emerged. Maybe they'll raise a new Q too; if not no problem just recombine. If I do this, how long do they need to remain broodless?

Thanks everybody!!

[eltalia]

http://www.bushfarms.com/beespests.htm#efb

A brood break is very effective.  A new queen usually helps as well.

After talking to Wally on the phone and reading your page, I'll add two options to the list.
> Take a good frame of brood and a frame of stores from a healthy colony, put it in a new box. Shake all the adult bees and the Q  from the sick colony into the new box. All the frames from the sick colony go in the freezer.
> Pull the Q only to a little split from a healthy colony. Let the sick colony bee until all brood is emerged. Maybe they'll raise a new Q too; if not no problem just recombine. If I do this, how long do they need to remain broodless?

Thanks everybody!!

That answer will be interesting.

Would you be able to compile a rough estimate of cost when success is
determined, and post the breakdown?
I ask as I have read a number of times elsewhere the exercise in rescue
owns a price tag, in both real dollars and time.
As I have yet to attempt to recover any brood disease the info may sway
 future decisions. Thanks.

Bill

[yes2matt]

Sure Bill:
Current sunk costs, including original split:
Hours:
0.75 inspection/manipulation
1.0 direct messages/calls
2.5ish reading and research

Materials:
1 lb sugar
Lost 1/2 frame of drawn comb to wax moths
Not sure how to account for lost use/opportunity cost of 4 drawn comb frames x  13 weeks.

You can see the proposed manipulations above, .25 hrs max unless I've got a kid along. And Terrabee is $7 or $8.

Should I account future reporting as R/R or as I/M?  :)


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[Troutdog]

Hi Matt
Divining rods wont help at this point.

Efb has taken on a few new twists in its character there are 4 flavors of it.
I do not understand why you did not send sample to beltsville lab.
Alternatively, there is a 12 dollar test kit for efb that is pretty good just make sure of expiration date.

Treatment feed feed feed
I reccomend the super DFM direct fed microbial formula.
As you have a severe issue with royal jelly production you might use Caspian Solution to increase pollen intake.
6 months is way too long for this to be addressed now, so I would requeen if the above does not work. If you use antibiotics use the Caspian for greater efficacy.
You do not need antibiotics to treat efb. Probiotics work wonders.
Scrape out all infected comb areas, and sprinkle DFM on the scraped areas. The dfm will take a brood cycle to show results but you can see it working with increased royal jelly in larvae.
Luck
Tom



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