Stands for hives

[Pam G]

I am brand new to beekeeping, bought one hive, am making another.  My bee package will not arrive for a few more weeks.  I have looked at the pics of others bee yards and noticed that they are placed flat and level.

In my yard that will be a problem since it is going to be in a  sloping meadow.  Hubby's suggestion is to set up a permanent yard, with posts set in concrete and 2x4s as cross members.  Other than the obvious problem of not being able to relocate easily, would there be another issue I am not aware of?

I do know that they have to be at least 18" above ground, skunks abound here, but  are bear free.

[Billy B]

Not a problem with it being permanent ... other than, well, it's permanent.    If you are sure about the location, sure, why not?

For the cross members, I prefer to use 2x6.  But this is dependent upon spans as well (mine are 8') ... 2x4 will be fine for short spans.

Another useful recommendation, space the beams so that a frame will fit between ... instant frame rest between your hives.

Here is a picture of one of my stands where you can more or less see the construction and see a hanging frame:



This one was too tall, but otherwise served me well.

[mikecva]

I had a set up like Billy B's but I had problems with the deer bumping them. I solved that by putting the cross members (also 2x6s) closer so that there was 4" overhang in the front and back.

In my out yards I can not have a permanent stand so mine are 2x6'" bases, with carpentry strips (1/2"x 1" with tiny carpentry tacks sticking up - used for wall to wall carpets) across the bottom of the landing boards. These will deter little feet from scratching for the bees.   -Mike

[Pam G]

Thanks for the fast replays.  I like the 2x6 suggestion better, great choice.  Also the spacing, I would not have thought of until too late.

This is the first year our hobby farm will not be organic.  Until now it was just pasture and hay for horses.  Horses are sold, camper bought and have a young man that is going to farm 2 fields.  This bee yard is as far away from those fields as I can place it.  The meadow is flanked on one side with a hardwood stand of trees and a large pond.  The other side has more hardwoods bordered by a large group of young black locust trees.

I also appreciate the tack suggestion, darn skunks anyway.  Those buggers come close to the house.  One time my tiny chihuahua, Fancy Pants took a direct hit from the cutest baby skunk you ever saw, so I was out in the yard bathing her at midnight.  That was the night her name was changed from Fancy Pants to Stinky Britches.

[ggileau]

Not a problem with it being permanent ... other than, well, it's permanent.    If you are sure about the location, sure, why not?

For the cross members, I prefer to use 2x6.  But this is dependent upon spans as well (mine are 8') ... 2x4 will be fine for short spans.

Another useful recommendation, space the beams so that a frame will fit between ... instant frame rest between your hives.

Here is a picture of one of my stands where you can more or less see the construction and see a hanging frame:



This one was too tall, but otherwise served me well.

Nice stand! I agree with you on the height as well. I built the one at my sons a foot or so higher than mine and it can be a pain when the boxes get heavy. 18" or so above the ground works best for me.

[greenbtree]

Yes, don't build them too high, or it becomes a real literal pain in the back to lift hive bodies on and off.  You don't need to make them so high that the skunks can't reach, just enough so that they get their vulnerable bellies exposed.  I had to shorten the first couple of stands I made.

JC

[Bush_84]

A hive that high would be fine for nucs.  Nucs won't get to high.  I plan on using my tbhs as a nuc stand. 

[don2]

You could use cement blocks. never rot. Lay on side do the holes are lateral, so snakes can't hide in the holes. Use 1x6 about the length of the blocks for leveling. may have to scoop out a little dirt here and there. if you have to move a colony take the blocks, makes for good exercise.  I am also using land scape timbers held together with treated 2x4's with two landscape timbers on top not nailed.cut the uprights what length you wish. mine are 18 inches high. d2

[drlonzo]

I use a stand that's made with a double A frame at each end with 2x4 cross members spaced so that the outside of the hive body front and back rest perfectly above them for support.  Also they are made to hold 2 hives of either 8 or 10 frame style.  I use 8 frame so i have an area between them for resting the frames as i'm working the hives.  The important thing is to make them 18 inches off the ground and always level side to side and front to back.  If you want to do the bees a favor for the winter make sure the front side of the stand is set lower then the back by about 1/2 to 1 inch for condensation drainage if using solid bottom boards.  Putting in a permanent post type stand has no real problems as long as designed correctly for the load that it could end up holding up.  Hope my 2 cents worth helps.

[labradorfarms]

I bought some 4x4 x 10's to use with concrete blocks on the end...... When I got to leveling up my hives. It hit me I didn't need them.....
So I took back my 4x4's and just used 6 concrete blocks stacked 3 high....  I found it much easer to level from side to side. I used some paint sticks to make the hive lean a little forward as to let water out.....
With the blocks I can strap my hives down if need be during high winds, and they are high enough off the ground to deter skunks etc..

[Joe D]

Like Don, I use concrete blocks.  I have one under the front and one under the back of the hive.  I nail a piece of 2x4 under the bottom board at each end to set on the block, shim it to get it level.  Has the hive about 9 inches off ground, mine are on a slab also.



Joe