Mixing 9 Frame Supers and 10 Frame Hive Bodies when using all Mediums.

[dealhound]

I have always used 9 frame medium supers above 10 frame deeps and never had this dilemma, but since I have switched to all mediums (per Michael Bush) , I am now conflicted. I cannot find much information about whether or not this is a good idea or if I should expect certain problems if I go this route. The problem I see is that one of the primary reasons I have gone to all mediums is to standardize all my equipment to allow exchangeability between parts. If I use the 9 frame supers, how would I be able to exchange the frames back down into the 10 frame brood boxes. Say I need to give the hive a few filled out frames of honey for feed or I need to move a frame of brood out of my honey supers (not using queen excluders).

Welcome any opinions or recommendations.

Regards

Tim Martin

[Acebird]

Tim I have never heard of a 9 frame super.  It is either 10 or 8.  I see no problem with a bigger brood box then honey super except you have to cover the over lap to keep the weather out.

[rockink]

Hello. They 9 frame supers and 10 frame brood boxes are the same dimensions correct?

The only difference being the spacing between the frames which decides if its a 9 or 10 frame?

Being fairly new to beekeeping myself maybe I'm missing something but i would think everything should be interchangeable as is...?

Rockin K

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[sc-bee]

I believe he means the number of frames in the ten frame boxes (9 in the honey super and 10 in the brood chamber). It is no issue move things where you want them one frame at a time, that is the whole idea of all mediums. In particular if you run no excluder and don't segregate frames honey use vs brood use.  And if you wish run 9 frames in the brood box. Some folks actually do this for space between the frames to remove frames as they think it helps keep from accidentally rolling the queen.

[dealhound]

Sorry about confusion.  Yes, I absolutely mean running 9 frames in a 10 frame box for honey supers.  Been doing this for awhile and I really like.  But always over deep hive bodies where switching frames between two wasn't an option.  But now that is I would like to be able to put frames from super to body and vice versa but I'm afraid the super frames would be too thick to go in the available space of the 10 frame hive body.  Figured this wasn't a new problem and someone would no whether its a prob or if I should just go tens all the way?

BTW I use foundationless throughout and only treatments I use are BT.

Regards

Tim

[Acebird]

Some folks actually do this for space between the frames to remove frames as they think it helps keep from accidentally rolling the queen.

How do they prevent cross comb if they space out brood frames?

[beeman2009]

Tim,
I run all 8 frame mediums. I have never run deeps. I run 7 frames in all my supers with no issues at all, not even if I need to give them a frame of honey. Hope this helps.

Tim :)

[BeeMaster2]

Tim,
If the frames that you move down are too close together, the bees will cut them back to the correct length. I once placed an oversized frame in my observation hive and the capped honey comb was up against the glass on the opposite side from the opening. 48 hours later it was all cut for bee space as flat as the glass it had been up against.
I think you may have been worried about the frames not lining up vertically, if so, that will not be a problem.
Jim

[dealhound]

Thanks for all the replies ! 

I was worried that I would have to crush a full comb of honey out of the nine frame box to get it to go into the ten, but maybe that not a problem if the bees will just fix asap.    No, as I ran nine over ten deeps before, not concerned about the vertical misalignment.  I feel better about the situation now. 

Regards

Tim

[Acebird]

Thanks for all the replies ! 

I was worried that I would have to crush a full comb of honey out of the nine frame box to get it to go into the ten,

I am not sure what your goals are but I would not try to crush a full frame of honey.  Just uncap it then it will fit in.  You could even extract the honey before putting it in.

[Michael Bush]

I run all eight frame mediums with narrow frames and have 9 frames in all my eight frame boxes.  Often if the frames are fat and nothing but honey, I put 8 or even 7 frames in a super.  If it's drawn comb you can sometimes get away with six frames in an eight frame box.  It's not a problem.  You can even take one of those fat combs and put it in the brood box, but of course you won't be able to put as many frames in it anymore.

[Ben Framed]

I run all eight frame mediums with narrow frames and have 9 frames in all my eight frame boxes.  Often if the frames are fat and nothing but honey, I put 8 or even 7 frames in a super.  If it's drawn comb you can sometimes get away with six frames in an eight frame box.  It's not a problem.  You can even take one of those fat combs and put it in the brood box, but of course you won't be able to put as many frames in it anymore.

Beside having more surface for bees, and good for you! I suspect that you have even more reason for doing this in the brood chamber? Does running small cell play a part in this? Thanks Phillip

[Michael Bush]

>Beside having more surface for bees, and good for you! I suspect that you have even more reason for doing this in the brood chamber? Does running small cell play a part in this? Thanks Phillip

http://www.bushfarms.com/beesframewidth.htm
http://www.bushfarms.com/beesfaqs.htm#framespacing
http://www.bushfarms.com/beesnaturalcell.htm

[Jim134]

I personally don't know of a commercial beekeeper. That runs 10 frames in a Box in 10 frame a equipment.. It's always 9   Frames. No matter where the frame is placed at. The only time to worry about cross comb. Is when you beginning with foundation.. Then they will run 10 On new foundation..  This has been my personal experience....

      BEE HAPPY Jim 134