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Author Topic: Anyone nadir instead of super? How do you prevent swarming?  (Read 2944 times)

Offline Oblio13

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I like the idea of nadiring, but then opening the brood nest to prevent swarming defeats the purpose of nadiring.

Any ideas or thoughts?
« Last Edit: May 10, 2018, 10:16:39 pm by Oblio13 »

Offline NasalSponge

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Re: Anyone nadir instead of super? How do you prevent swarming?
« Reply #1 on: May 10, 2018, 10:06:08 pm »
What do you mean by nadiring? It can refer to adding a empty super under a full one which imo is a waste of energy for the supposed benefit. Really makes no sense. The other is similar but is referring to a Warre hive.

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Offline Oblio13

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Re: Anyone nadir instead of super? How do you prevent swarming?
« Reply #2 on: May 10, 2018, 10:14:01 pm »
By nadiring I mean adding boxes to the bottom of a hive instead of the top. It is indeed what Emile Warre advocated.

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Re: Anyone nadir instead of super? How do you prevent swarming?
« Reply #3 on: May 10, 2018, 10:43:59 pm »
I prevent swarming by the following:

Young queens
Space, prevent crowding not to exceed 80%
Genetics, keep the queens with low swarm tendency
Do not bring swarms into your apiary; yes you can requeen a swarm, but you cannot eliminate the drones which carry the genes for swarming
Rotate brood chambers, although I do not, no need with my queens.

Now I realize swarming is a natural tendency and impossible to totally prevent, however there are queens with very low tendencies for swarming: read (Beekeeping at Buckfast Abbey, Brother Adam) and many other sources.
Blessings

Offline Dustymunky

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Re: Anyone nadir instead of super? How do you prevent swarming?
« Reply #4 on: May 10, 2018, 11:06:53 pm »
Seems pretty drastic to banish swarms from your apiary and/or requeen arbitrarily.  I am always excited to see how new swarms/queens perform.  Im only a small time guy with less than 10 hives. My main goal is bees that survive but I do like to harvest honey too. 

I open the brood nest and put supers on to control swarming. If they start getting on with queen cells i split the hive. Tough line to balance. Want booming hives for honey production but not to the point that they swarm.

Offline little john

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Re: Anyone nadir instead of super? How do you prevent swarming?
« Reply #5 on: May 11, 2018, 03:17:18 am »
I like the idea of nadiring, but then opening the brood nest to prevent swarming defeats the purpose of nadiring.

Any ideas or thoughts?

Thoughts ? Yes - but I'm not sure anyone here would want to hear them ...  :smile:
Emile Warre was intent upon achieving two things: the first was to design a beehive which was both efficient and cheap to build (and thus affordable) for the rural French - this I think he achieved.
The second was to emulate, as far as possible, conditions which closely mirrored those of the tree cavity - hence his design resembles a tall narrow chimney. In this regard, I think his structural design basically works (except for his 'quilt' idea) but his procedural methods are somewhat dubious.

Tree trunks are not widely known for lifting themselves bodily off the ground in order to have a new section added to their middle ... so how then does the natural nest's comb differ from that of the expandable (multi-box) hive ?  Quite simply, they are long contiguous combs.  However, one relatively recent trend within beekeeping circles has become the complete reverse of this: to use multiple shallow brood boxes instead.  Even Warre enthusiasts persist with 'nadiring' extra brood boxes.

The reason Warre gives for nadiring is straightforward enough: having over-wintered within a minimum number of boxes, the time then comes for colony expansion - but - should a residual band of honey remain at the top of the brood box combs, then the queen will refuse to cross over that honey and move up into an upper box.  As there is no longer a box of combs below the currently occupied box, the colony is thus trapped within a small space and will duly swarm in order to find somewhere larger.  Warre's solution to this problem is to provide a box of combs below that currently occupied. (which then involves some dismantling and heavy lifting)

There are two possible solutions to this: the first is to remove the combs (IF you run frames within a Warre Hive) and scarify the capped honey cells before 'supering' a second brood box - the bees will then relocate those honey stores upwards, thus removing the obstruction to colony expansion.

For those with fixed combs, a simple solution would be to have the second brood box (the one which is nadired under the first) placed there permanently.  During winter the bees will move up the stack, consuming honey as they go - then come spring they will begin moving down again, back-filling the old brood nest with honey as that nest progressively becomes vacated, with a new brood nest being formed underneath it - which is exactly what happens in a natural bee-nest.
With a narrow chimney-style hive it's unnecessary to minimise cavity size by the removal of additional brood boxes prior to the onset of winter, as the bees will move upwards away from the cold at the bottom - just as they've been doing for millennia.

For those without Warre hives, the equivalent of this would be to use much deeper combs than are currently in use - but no 'modern' beekeeper would ever want to hear about such an idea.  :smile:
LJ

PS - I prevent swarming by the use of large volume hives with deep combs.
A Heretics Guide to Beekeeping - http://heretics-guide.atwebpages.com

Offline Acebird

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Re: Anyone nadir instead of super? How do you prevent swarming?
« Reply #6 on: May 11, 2018, 08:27:21 am »
Way too much work and it is no more effective than supering from the top.
It is far easier to do what the bees want to do, multiply.  Cut the hive in half, maybe twice get by the rut period and recombine if you want that big a hive.  I have yet to recombine.  Too smaller hives are easier to manage then one big tower.
« Last Edit: May 11, 2018, 01:25:51 pm by Acebird »
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Offline NasalSponge

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Re: Anyone nadir instead of super? How do you prevent swarming?
« Reply #7 on: May 11, 2018, 09:20:58 am »
Since swarming is, in fact, procreation for the honeybee, you can no more stop swarming with bees than to stop any other wild creature from attempting to spread their DNA. Be fruitful and multiply was a commandment. It can, at best, be managed. To understand this basic factor will relieve much anxiety. I agree with LJ in my personal philosophy on bees an although am a bit less verbose.

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Offline little john

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Re: Anyone nadir instead of super? How do you prevent swarming?
« Reply #8 on: May 11, 2018, 10:40:48 am »
I thought the underlying rationale for nadiring Warre brood boxes might be of interest to those who weren't aware of it.
LJ
A Heretics Guide to Beekeeping - http://heretics-guide.atwebpages.com

Offline NasalSponge

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Re: Anyone nadir instead of super? How do you prevent swarming?
« Reply #9 on: May 11, 2018, 01:35:10 pm »
I thought the underlying rationale for nadiring Warre brood boxes might be of interest to those who weren't aware of it.
LJ
Indeed, and thank you. My attempt at levity.

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Offline eltalia

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Re: Anyone nadir instead of super? How do you prevent swarming?
« Reply #10 on: May 12, 2018, 06:10:27 am »
I like the idea of nadiring, but then opening the brood nest to prevent swarming defeats the purpose of nadiring.

Any ideas or thoughts?

Thoughts ? Yes - but I'm not sure anyone here would want to hear them ...  :smile:
Emile Warre was intent upon achieving two things: the first was to design a beehive which was both efficient and cheap to build (and thus affordable) for the rural French - this I think he achieved.
The second was to emulate, as far as possible, conditions which closely mirrored those of the tree cavity - hence his design resembles a tall narrow chimney. In this regard, I think his structural design basically works (except for his 'quilt' idea) but his procedural methods are somewhat dubious.

Tree trunks are not widely known for lifting themselves bodily off the ground in order to have a new section added to their middle ... so how then does the natural nest's comb differ from that of the expandable (multi-box) hive ?  Quite simply, they are long contiguous combs.  However, one relatively recent trend within beekeeping circles has become the complete reverse of this: to use multiple shallow brood boxes instead.  Even Warre enthusiasts persist with 'nadiring' extra brood boxes.

The reason Warre gives for nadiring is straightforward enough: having over-wintered within a minimum number of boxes, the time then comes for colony expansion - but - should a residual band of honey remain at the top of the brood box combs, then the queen will refuse to cross over that honey and move up into an upper box.  As there is no longer a box of combs below the currently occupied box, the colony is thus trapped within a small space and will duly swarm in order to find somewhere larger.  Warre's solution to this problem is to provide a box of combs below that currently occupied. (which then involves some dismantling and heavy lifting)

There are two possible solutions to this: the first is to remove the combs (IF you run frames within a Warre Hive) and scarify the capped honey cells before 'supering' a second brood box - the bees will then relocate those honey stores upwards, thus removing the obstruction to colony expansion.

For those with fixed combs, a simple solution would be to have the second brood box (the one which is nadired under the first) placed there permanently.  During winter the bees will move up the stack, consuming honey as they go - then come spring they will begin moving down again, back-filling the old brood nest with honey as that nest progressively becomes vacated, with a new brood nest being formed underneath it - which is exactly what happens in a natural bee-nest.
With a narrow chimney-style hive it's unnecessary to minimise cavity size by the removal of additional brood boxes prior to the onset of winter, as the bees will move upwards away from the cold at the bottom - just as they've been doing for millennia.

For those without Warre hives, the equivalent of this would be to use much deeper combs than are currently in use - but no 'modern' beekeeper would ever want to hear about such an idea.  :smile:
LJ

PS - I prevent swarming by the use of large volume hives with deep combs.

As for many more of the "Olde Patrons" there are aspects of Warre
we as responsible modern b'keeps should adhere to.
Unfortunately Warre -  as has Ellen White - left teachings which are not just
unworkable, realisticly, but also hugely divisable.. and so the debate continues
whilst bees are thwarted in doing what they expand for, propagation of the
 species.

/rant 0ff

Bill

Offline herbhome

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Re: Anyone nadir instead of super? How do you prevent swarming?
« Reply #11 on: May 12, 2018, 01:48:06 pm »
 I run warre and lang hives. I started trying to nadir and found that some colonies absolutely refused to build down while others didn't miss a lick. In one of C.C. Miller's books, I think it was "50 Years Among the Bees", he said in the spring he added a brood box by nadiring to retain nest scent and temperature. Makes sense, but he supered for honey. I'm fairly convinced it is a non-issue now, unless the climate one is in will kill brood by opening the top.
 I still have huge respect for Warre but some of the ideas he held won't work in a day and age of parasites and disease. At least one was nonsensical. He firmly states that the entrance to the hive should be no more than 4 inches from the ground, or exhausted and heavy laden foragers will exhaust themselves trying to enter the hive and never make it.
 I do like the way a quilt box controls moisture in the hive over winter. I've never had any moisture issues when I've used one. 
« Last Edit: May 12, 2018, 07:38:53 pm by herbhome »
Neill

Offline beepro

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Re: Anyone nadir instead of super? How do you prevent swarming?
« Reply #12 on: May 12, 2018, 09:31:13 pm »
Keep on taking the cap broods out so that the ratio of foragers and nurse bees are
uneven.  This you need the drawn comb to replace the cap brood frames taken out.  More honey less
swarming!

 

anything