Author Topic: building / wiring foundationless frames (Read 6096 times)

djgriggs · « **on:** March 29, 2018, 12:58:46 am »

Okay , i know that there is a lot of information out there on this subject and even videos.. I some frames I have been working on for foundationless. I am using fishing line to wire the frame I am using pattern =X " the = and x are combined see attachment. I have tried this with two different fishing lines , regular 20 lb line and spiderwire fishing line. I am trying to attach the line with staples . so far the line keeps coming off. " slides right out of the staple once a pull on it. I am not for sure what I am doing wrong / maybe using a staple . If anyone has any ideas / thoughts please tell me what I am doing in correctly.

Thank you

little john · « **Reply #1 on:** March 29, 2018, 04:44:18 am »

To hold nylon mono-filament fishing-line securely, wrap it 4-6 times around a drawing-pin/ thumb-tack that has been pressed halfway into the wood of a side bar. Whilst holding modest tension on the free end, press the tack firmly home. What I then used to do as a 'belt and braces' measure was to squeeze the drawing-pin hard into the wood with a pair of plumber's grips. If you leave much of an impression in the soft wood, then you've squeezed too hard ! Then snip off the excess line.

I found bees could get their 'teeth' around 20 lb line and chew it until it parted. I found 40-60 lb sea-fishing line survived the bees ok ... but it didn't survive a mouse. LOL
LJ

djgriggs · « **Reply #2 on:** March 29, 2018, 10:38:05 pm »

okay, got actual nails today for wiring the frames , works .. I now have a test frame complete. however I am wanting to know , how tight I am suppose to have the line. also i am still going off of the diagram above. I also have some spiderwire laying around I will try that this weekend .

Robo · « **Reply #3 on:** March 29, 2018, 10:42:01 pm »

My experience has not been good with fishing line.

1) The bees are much more hesitant to build comb around it compared to metal wire
2) It doesn't hold up no where as well as metal wire (not sure if the bees chew it or I had it too tight). Many times I'd walk into the apiary to find it hanging out the entrance.

I totally agree that some type of comb support is needed for foundationless, but I have found 1 metal cross wire is sufficient and works best for me.

little john · « **Reply #4 on:** March 30, 2018, 04:53:29 am »

Quote from: djgriggs on March 29, 2018, 10:38:05 pm

okay, got actual nails today for wiring the frames , works .. I now have a test frame complete. however I am wanting to know , how tight I am suppose to have the line. also i am still going off of the diagram above. I also have some spiderwire laying around I will try that this weekend .

Well - when running foundationless I used to have it 'tight' (as opposed to sloppy) - but not 'banjo tight' - just enough that it made a 'thuk' sound when I plucked it. I guess the same when supporting foundation ?

I very much agree with Robo - the bees don't really 'like' nylon fishing line - they tolerate it, whenever they have little choice, but they'll quickly build alongside it given half a chance. That's why I changed to using bamboo skewers - a tad more hassle to make, certainly less pretty, but far more predictable. Still looking for the perfect solution to this one ...

BTW - have you ever considered 'bobby pins' (whatever they are ...) - the FatBeeMan made a YouTube video about using these - they seem to work ok.
LJ

Acebird · « **Reply #5 on:** March 30, 2018, 08:50:49 am »

They are single wire hair pins John bent in a long U.

little john · « **Reply #6 on:** March 30, 2018, 09:11:36 am »

Thanks Brian - live 'n' learn ... !

- LJ

tjc1 · « **Reply #7 on:** March 30, 2018, 10:19:17 am »

I use 60 lb monifilament and haven't seen any problems - never seen the bees chew it and they build on it fine - perhaps because they have no other choice! I just tie a triple knot in one end so it can't pull through the hole in the frame, then go back and forth (no criss-cross - that seems unnecessary to me) as tight as I can get it (as it always seems to loosen/stretch in the process), then tie it off to itself on the outside edge of the frame.

cao · « **Reply #8 on:** March 30, 2018, 11:22:25 am »

I would agree with Robo. I've had bees stop drawing around the nylon even with foundation. I just stopped using support wires. Any frame that I pull that isn't attached to the sides and/or bottom is treated very gently(not flipped over) regardless of any wires it may or may not have in it.

djgriggs · « **Reply #9 on:** March 30, 2018, 12:53:57 pm »

Quote from: cao on March 30, 2018, 11:22:25 am

I would agree with Robo. I've had bees stop drawing around the nylon even with foundation. I just stopped using support wires. Any frame that I pull that isn't attached to the sides and/or bottom is treated very gently(not flipped over) regardless of any wires it may or may not have in it.

Has anyone used Spider Wire fishing line. It appears to me that it is a little thinner and is not nylon ? Thoughts on this ?

Oldbeavo · « **Reply #10 on:** March 30, 2018, 03:56:55 pm »

If we want them to build foundation for comb honey then we put a thin piece of wood across the center of a full depth frame, about 3/8x3/8 pine, hot wax painted on the inner surfaces and away they go.
Quick, easy and permanent.

Van, Arkansas, USA · « **Reply #11 on:** March 30, 2018, 05:36:07 pm »

Beavo, is the 3/8 rod horizontal in the frame, you texted (across) so that is what I interpreted. Just wanted to be sure the rod is not vertical.
blessings .

Van, Arkansas, USA · « **Reply #12 on:** March 30, 2018, 05:41:11 pm »

Mr. Griggs, I hope you give us an update when you receive your bees. I lot of us are glad for you, look at all the replys,,, so keep us posted on your bees,,,, when you receive them.
Blessings

djgriggs · « **Reply #13 on:** March 30, 2018, 10:12:06 pm »

I have learned something today, I got home from work and and tried 2 things.

1. took foundationless frame used regular 20lb fishing line.
... I could not get this very tight, plus still stretched when pulled..

2. took foundationless frame used 20lb spider wire fishing line..
... I could get this tight, did not seem to stretch, however when I pulled on the line , it is such a thin fine line that it cut right through the frame..
Need to use the eyelets if using this line..

Questions, just how tight does this need to be also does foundationless frames really need wire of any kind for support I mean it is foundationless.. I mean is this an issue always or only if you flip flop the frames once they have comb......

At this time I was thinking that I liked the sting until it was so tight that it sliced through the frame :),, Eyelets ???? and go with spiderwire or will it be to thin....

is stretching a bad thing and how much stretching is a bad thing ?

moebees · « **Reply #14 on:** March 30, 2018, 10:26:03 pm »

Quote from: djgriggs on March 30, 2018, 10:12:06 pm

I have learned something today, I got home from work and and tried 2 things.

Questions, just how tight does this need to be also does foundationless frames really need wire of any kind for support I mean it is foundationless.. I mean is this an issue always or only if you flip flop the frames once they have comb......

I don't use anything.

little john · « **Reply #15 on:** March 31, 2018, 05:40:45 am »

Quote from: djgriggs on March 30, 2018, 10:12:06 pm

Questions, just how tight does this need to be also does foundationless frames really need wire of any kind for support I mean it is foundationless.. I mean is this an issue always or only if you flip flop the frames once they have comb......

Needing eyelets was one reason I've never considered using wire - yet more stuff to buy - along with requiring some means of tensioning it.

moebees is quite right - with foundationless you don't really need anything. But - you do then need to handle the combs with absolute care - just as if they were Top Bar combs. Once the bees have attached a comb to the side bars, it's a lot safer - and once it's turned deep brown (after a year or two) it's as safe to handle as a comb built on foundation.

So - the 'delicate' time is when you have (say) five or six inches of comb hanging down from a starter strip - sometimes with only a 'knife-blade' contact to that starter-strip, and with no support from the sides. At that time the comb can even wave about in a gentle breeze, and it doesn't take a whole lot for it to just flop over to one side and break off. That's the time when some form of comb support is handy.
One of the reasons I like vertical support is that it's in place right from the start, whereas with horizontal support the comb is unsupported until it reaches the first wire or line.

When using fishing line, the idea is not to hold the comb rigidly, but only to prevent it from 'flopping over' - so if (until the side adhesions are made) the comb flexes a few millimetres or so to one side, it really doesn't matter - no damage of significance will occur. Even if the line was pulled taut, but with no significant tension on it - that would still do the job ok.

In general terms, bees are more enthusiastic to build comb wherever they find the presence of wax, and so it might be worth running a block of wax along the fishing line once it's been installed - although I've never actually done this. (Too lazy).
LJ

cao · « **Reply #16 on:** March 31, 2018, 06:08:54 am »

Quote from: djgriggs on March 30, 2018, 10:12:06 pm

Questions, just how tight does this need to be also does foundationless frames really need wire of any kind for support I mean it is foundationless.. I mean is this an issue always or only if you flip flop the frames once they have comb......

It doesn't have to be tight enough that you can play a tune on it. IMO it only needs to be tight enough so there isn't any slop in it. As stated earlier, the only time that there is an issue with a foundationless frame is when it ie new and the bees haven't attached it to the sides and/or bottom. Once It is atached to the bottom, it can be treated like any other drawn frame.

Oldbeavo · « **Reply #17 on:** March 31, 2018, 08:03:20 am »

Hi Van
The bar runs horizontal across the frame.
This allows us to cut out capped honey for sale at markets. We have uncapped and extracted these frames, by mistake as they are more valuable as comb honey.
We make the bees build it all rather than use foundation as we don't know the origin of the foundation and I don't expect people to chew on something I can't vouch for.
To tension wire put the frame in holder so you can push the side bars in a bit, small thread and handle, put the wire in reasonably tight then when you release the pressure on the side bars the wires become tighter.
Need to use eyelets.

Acebird · « **Reply #18 on:** March 31, 2018, 08:42:32 am »

Quote from: cao on March 31, 2018, 06:08:54 am

IMO it only needs to be tight enough so there isn't any slop in it.

Yes, you actually could have a catenary in the strand if you tied the center off to the bottom bar with another wire. This would make it into a very shallow "Y".

djgriggs · « **Reply #19 on:** March 31, 2018, 10:21:37 am »

Thanks for all the advice on this , but if I must be honest, and I usually am to a fault. I still do not know which way to go on this .. I want to go with foundationless but still not clear if the horizontal fishing line / wire is absolutely needed. It sounds like it is more optional than anything , and that if you do not have the horizontal support you must , must must be extremely careful when handling the frame with comb. I understand having the line support there be it " = , or X + = ".

If I understand correctly on the use of the fishing line , it is okay if it stretches a little because it is there for support and it is okay as long as it does not sag. Maybe I

am thinking to much into this . i was thinking that as the comb is built and it starts being built downward that it would end up putting pressure on the fishing line and then start to stretch the line, but now that I think about it presuming the bees do not bite through it they would build the comb around the line allowing the line a more supporting role instead of pushing the line downward.. Does this sound correct or make sense. .

Keep in in mind that I have two hives, one was planned to use foundation and one was not.

As a new beekeeper do I want to chance " no horizontal support for the foundationless " I know that mistakes will happen and I could lower the chances by choosing to be very very careful.

Current Options :

1. Continue to use the 20lb fishing line as tight as possible without eyelets
2. buy eyelets to use with line support original fishingline or spiderwire.
3 Do not use any Horizontal supporting wires and be extremely careful.

I do not want to spend more money if I do not have to so I am going to say that option 2 is out..

I do appreciate everyones thoughts and input here.. I do not want anyone to think otherwise I am just stubborn at times and try to make sure I have the complete picture.

eltalia · « **Reply #20 on:** March 31, 2018, 10:56:50 am »

@djgriggs

Much has been put, here now and previously elsewhere.
As with many other topics raised by new players the avenues
forward can be overwhelming.
Ask yourself this.. "how long in my Life am I going to undertake
to keep bees". When the answer is somewhere north of 5 years
you have plenty of opportunity to test any and all the paths
confusing you now.
Don't even contemplate a startup when it's _all_ the 'right' answers
you must have first. There arn't any.
Lucks to your bees.

Bill

little john · « **Reply #21 on:** March 31, 2018, 11:18:38 am »

Quote from: eltalia on March 31, 2018, 10:56:50 am

When the answer is somewhere north of 5 years
you have plenty of opportunity to test any and all the paths
confusing you now.
Don't even contemplate a startup when it's _all_ the 'right' answers
you must have first. There arn't any.

That just but sums it up.

Suggest: try 2x frames with one method; 2x with another; 2x unsupported, and so on ...

Then evaluate which were most successful - and which YOU liked best (aka "suck it and see").

Well, that's one possible approach if you're still undecided ...
LJ

paus · « **Reply #22 on:** March 31, 2018, 11:47:29 am »

I have started using skewers instead off wire. I have had wire come loose from factory frames in the extraction process. I can install either two or three skewers a lot faster than I can install fishing line. This brings up my question, are two skewers all that is needed to extract from deep frames? I saw a picture of one of Little John's frames with two skewers, and his frames are deeper than my Langstrop frames. Two skewers would make installation almost twice as fast and would make a much easier frame to use in cut outs. Any one had experience with extraction using skewers.

Acebird · « **Reply #23 on:** March 31, 2018, 01:44:43 pm »

Quote from: djgriggs on March 31, 2018, 10:21:37 am

If I understand correctly on the use of the fishing line , it is okay if it stretches a little because it is there for support and it is okay as long as it does not sag. Maybe I

am thinking to much into this . i was thinking that as the comb is built and it starts being built downward that it would end up putting pressure on the fishing line and then start to stretch the line,...

If the line were to sag, yes the comb would be built around it and it would support the comb in the vertical direction. But if you tipped the frame 90 deg. then it wouldn't support it unless you had another line/wire in the middle and connected to the bottom bar.

You can go through the trouble of drawing out comb by just using the top bar. Once they have completed a frame you trim the comb back so you can assemble the side bars and the bottom bar and they will attach it to the sides and bottom but this takes two seasons.

moebees · « **Reply #24 on:** March 31, 2018, 02:54:49 pm »

I have never used any support and although you have to be careful it isn't as bad as you might think. Try ounce it is dark comb you don't need to be careful at all. Otherwise get in the habit of handling the comb like top bar guys do. Top bar keepers handle comb all the time and most of the comb we have in a frame is more solid then that so I don't find it to be a problem.

sc-bee · « **Reply #25 on:** March 31, 2018, 04:19:34 pm »

Quote from: djgriggs on March 31, 2018, 10:21:37 am

Current Options :

1. Continue to use the 20lb fishing line as tight as possible without eyelets
2. buy eyelets to use with line support original fishingline or spiderwire.
3 Do not use any Horizontal supporting wires and be extremely careful.

First of all I am pretty much a foundation guy. At times to open the next I have inserted an empty in a squeeze. With no support wire the Southern temps in the mid to upper 90's help you out with disaster... tilt or no tilt... just the pure weight.... catch my drift or should I say catch my drop

sc-bee · « **Reply #26 on:** March 31, 2018, 04:23:45 pm »

Quote from: little john on March 30, 2018, 04:53:29 am

BTW - have you ever considered 'bobby pins' (whatever they are ...) - the FatBeeMan made a YouTube video about using these - they seem to work ok.
LJ

LJ--- Bobby pins at ya brother---

A bobby pin (also known as a kirby grip or hair grip in the United Kingdom) is a type of hairpin, usually of metal or plastic, used in coiffure to hold hair in place.

djgriggs · « **Reply #27 on:** March 31, 2018, 10:59:50 pm »

Okay,, Here is where I am at tonight.. I spent some of the day with the kids at the park . Afterwords I put together 20 Medium Foundationless frames.. " At this point I can see why someone may want to use a JIG " any how.. These frames have a strip in the top and one at the bottom.. I can say some fit great others not so much so . After I got them all assembled I melted some beeswax. I have did not have it hot enough as by the time I got the brush from the melted wax to the frame it was dry, "@#%$$" I went to walmart got me a camping burner and then melted more wax. This is where things started going semi badly... Apparently I got the wax good and melted because when I dipped my brush " it started sizzling " Yep,, a little to hot. I let it cool a little bit and continued to wax the top strip.. ( Curious,, Do I need to wax both strip or just the top ? " Well any way the first few times after using the brush after the sizzle some of the brush came off in the wax on the strip. Hope that does not affect the bees. Oh yeah I am not going to wire the medium frames. I will start assembling the deeps tomorrow .. If someone would let me know if I need to wax both top and bottom strips or if it is just okay to wax the top..

Thank everyone once again, Looking forward to hearing more from everyone

moebees · « **Reply #28 on:** March 31, 2018, 11:03:29 pm »

Quote from: djgriggs on March 31, 2018, 10:59:50 pm

Okay,, Here is where I am at tonight.. I spent some of the day with the kids at the park . Afterwords I put together 20 Medium Foundationless frames.. " At this point I can see why someone may want to use a JIG " any how.. These frames have a strip in the top and one at the bottom.. I can say some fit great others not so much so . After I got them all assembled I melted some beeswax. I have did not have it hot enough as by the time I got the brush from the melted wax to the frame it was dry, "@#%$$" I went to walmart got me a camping burner and then melted more wax. This is where things started going semi badly... Apparently I got the wax good and melted because when I dipped my brush " it started sizzling " Yep,, a little to hot. I let it cool a little bit and continued to wax the top strip.. ( Curious,, Do I need to wax both strip or just the top ? " Well any way the first few times after using the brush after the sizzle some of the brush came off in the wax on the strip. Hope that does not affect the bees. Oh yeah I am not going to wire the medium frames. I will start assembling the deeps tomorrow .. If someone would let me know if I need to wax both top and bottom strips or if it is just okay to wax the top..

Thank everyone once again, Looking forward to hearing more from everyone

Just the top. And you don't need to melt wax to apply it. Rubbing solid wax on the wood creates enough friction to get the wax to adhere.

djgriggs · « **Reply #29 on:** April 01, 2018, 01:12:17 am »

:) That would have been some good information to have before hand

Boy did it leave a mess .. oh well , live and learn....
Actually I like the way most of the boards turned out.. melting might be the way I want to go... Still not sure about the fishing line / wiring.

cao · « **Reply #30 on:** April 01, 2018, 11:02:34 am »

I agree that the top is only where the wax is needed. I melt my wax in an old crock pot that is reserved only for wax(since once used you won't be able to get all the wax cleaned off). I fill it about 3/4 full of water then add wax. It takes a couple hours to get it warm enough to melt the wax but I can usually find stuff to do while waiting. When finished I turn it off and walk away. Once cooled the extra wax comes out easily.

When using a paint brush, I've rigged a hook above the crock pot that holds the tip of the brush in the melted wax. This keeps the brush with wax warm enough that it won't cool before I get it to the frames.

djgriggs · « **Reply #31 on:** April 01, 2018, 02:44:14 pm »

Quote from: cao on April 01, 2018, 11:02:34 am

I melt my wax in an old crock pot that is reserved only for wax(since once used you won't be able to get all the wax cleaned off). I fill it about 3/4 full of water then add wax.

Am I correct in understanding that you mix water with your wax ???? " I just melted the wax and brushed it on. " Should I have mixed water in with the melted wax ? " Also I am considering using fishing line for support on the deep foundationless frames, should I even use fishing line / wire for support on the deep frames ?? .. Do these support lines need to be waxed.

Thank you

Acebird · « **Reply #32 on:** April 01, 2018, 04:06:32 pm »

Water doesn't mix with wax it just keeps it from overheating.

djgriggs · « **Reply #33 on:** April 01, 2018, 05:37:12 pm »

Oh, Okay thanks , I did not think it mixed but hey I dont know everything :),,,,

Can someone tell me..

I am getting ready to wire my foundationless deep frames. I was originally going to use this diagram for support
on running my fishing line.

However I have only seen the following being done for support. Am I going to far ? , should I stick just to the Horizonal support ?

Once this is done I will only have one last to do and that is to build the bee stand. Please send my all your thoughts, knowledge, opinions etc . All is welcome,,,,, woops it looks like I got the images backwards.. " I am only seeing the horizonal support " I had the idea of doing the 2nd image the horizontal with the X support.. Please tell me which would be best and why and or the preferred way. Thank you

cao · « **Reply #34 on:** April 01, 2018, 06:29:38 pm »

The water with wax is there mainly to make it easier to clean up afterward. The wax floats so there is no wax stuck in the bottom of the pot. Also with a half inch melted wax on top of the water you can dip your starter strip or plastic foundation. As it goes through the wax, the wax sticks to your starter strip. The water doesn't stick to the wax. It is mainly there to give you the extra depth for dipping without using all wax.

Quote from: Acebird on April 01, 2018, 04:06:32 pm

Water doesn't mix with wax it just keeps it from overheating.

And yes, even with the water at a slow boil, the wax is just fine.

The deep frames that I have wired had only two horizontal wires. One would work also. Any more is just overkill to me. I think it is more of what you want/like than what is best for the bees.

djgriggs · « **Reply #35 on:** April 01, 2018, 09:43:06 pm »

Okay,, I am done, I have completed all deep and medium foundationless frames.. I did not wire any support for the mediums as at this time I am not for sure it will be needed. I have attached a couple of pictures of the way I ran the fishing line for support for some of the deeps. I did not do this to all of them I chose to go with the original layout for the wiring support, as I did not see much more support for the idea that I had. Now the only thing left is to either build two stands or buy....

hrtull · « **Reply #36 on:** April 02, 2018, 03:18:23 pm »

I used thin wire and small pop rivets. Insert pop rivet in appropriate size hole leaving a gap large enough to make a few wire wraps around the head then push rivet in all the way and cycle the rivet gun . Purchased white ceiling grid rivets at lowes for little expense. Worked great. Also did the 2 vertical equally spaced BBQ skews with great results.

eltalia · « **Reply #37 on:** April 02, 2018, 04:46:48 pm »

"I do not want to spend more money if I do not have to ...."

"I do appreciate everyones thoughts and input here.. I do not want anyone to think otherwise
I am just stubborn at times and try to make sure I have the complete picture."

Weeeeell.. being stubborn *and* frugal I would wager you're in for a torrid
couple of years in bees, if you get past one season - and that is being as
honest as I strive to be.
I am not reading which frame size you are using but assuming the sketch is
roughly to scale it is Robo's option which may work out for you in supers
using full depth. A support mesh within the basket solves extraction
hazards, mostly.
For broodchambers in full depth no wiring is needed for a backyard
operation - learn to handle the combs, there are any number of tutes on
doing this successfully.

Mind how you go and Lucks to the bees.

Bill

Robo · « **Reply #38 on:** April 02, 2018, 05:07:14 pm »

Quote from: eltalia on April 02, 2018, 04:46:48 pm

For broodchambers in full depth no wiring is needed for a backyard
operation - learn to handle the combs, there are any number of tutes on
doing this successfully.

This is a very good point for new beekeepers who can still be trained. Old guys like me who have been flipping frames over during inspections for 40 years are hard to change. One simple wire has saved my butt numerous times now

djgriggs · « **Reply #39 on:** April 02, 2018, 05:25:08 pm »

Quote from: eltalia on April 02, 2018, 04:46:48 pm

"I do not want to spend more money if I do not have to ...."

"I do appreciate everyones thoughts and input here.. I do not want anyone to think otherwise
I am just stubborn at times and try to make sure I have the complete picture."

Weeeeell.. being stubborn *and* frugal I would wager you're in for a torrid
couple of years in bees, if you get past one season - and that is being as
honest as I strive to be.
I am not reading which frame size you are using but assuming the sketch is
roughly to scale it is Robo's option which may work out for you in supers
using full depth. A support mesh within the basket solves extraction
hazards, mostly.
For broodchambers in full depth no wiring is needed for a backyard
operation - learn to handle the combs, there are any number of tutes on
doing this successfully.

Mind how you go and Lucks to the bees.

Bill

Here is what I did , 20 foundationless frames ( deeps ) used 20lb fishing line for supports. See the attachment above to see how I chose to do some of them others are just horizontally wired , Did not see much extra support in the way I was doing it. I also have 20 foundationless Mediums for Supers, I did not wire these. I was going to go no wire for the deeps but I was thinking that sense I literally am only going by what I have read to care for the bees and I know to be careful " better safe than sorry " :) ... My issue is not really spending money for something that I will enjoy it is just spending money when not needed. I am really anxious to get my bees this month.. I am however a little worried that I will be getting them late.. Mid / late April.... Any thoughts on getting the bees within that time frame ?

Acebird · « **Reply #40 on:** April 02, 2018, 05:29:05 pm »

I say better late then early, others may disagree. Sometimes coming in to spring can be a yo-yo weather wise.

eltalia · « **Reply #41 on:** April 02, 2018, 05:46:05 pm »

"I am however a little worried that I will be getting them late.. "

Sorry, I have never bought a bee package in my life. For Australia
they literally fall outa the trees and are not Africanised, but of British
origins and so whilst a little antsy are quite manageable for the brood
cycle to complete in changing them out. I use linebred queens only.
I do empathise with my NH brethern and would encourage the astute
b'keep to avoid situations where packages become "the norm".

Bill

moebees · « **Reply #42 on:** April 02, 2018, 08:34:17 pm »

Quote

I am really anxious to get my bees this month.. I am however a little worried that I will be getting them late.. Mid / late April.... Any thoughts on getting the bees within that time frame ?

All the ones coming from the southeast are late this year. I don't know about California but we are all in the same situation if buying bees. It is a very late spring most places.

djgriggs · « **Reply #43 on:** April 02, 2018, 11:20:02 pm »

Yeah, I seem to recall a few emails pertaining to delays due to cold weather.

djgriggs · « **Reply #44 on:** April 03, 2018, 11:07:03 am »

So does anyone have any ideas and thoughts to buying / building a bee stand for two hives ?

cao · « **Reply #45 on:** April 03, 2018, 10:18:43 pm »

Quote from: djgriggs on April 03, 2018, 11:07:03 am

So does anyone have any ideas and thoughts to buying / building a bee stand for two hives ?

If you are getting two hives, make a stand for at least four. If thing go well(and I hope they do), it won't be long and you will need the space.

The simplest would probably be concrete blocks and four by fours. I've made some of mine out 2x6's 10 ft long with 4x4 legs angled out for more stability. Some of the others I've got are made of angle iron from old bed frames with legs welded on them. Whatever you use for a stand, just make sure it will hold enough weight.

Author Topic: building / wiring foundationless frames (Read 6096 times)

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Van, Arkansas, USA

Van, Arkansas, USA

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