Checkerboarding (Walt Wright)

[Van, Arkansas, USA]

That?s impressive LJ.  No swarming with double queens.  The latest research indicates swarming is directly a response to bee congestion.  PubMed I.e. library of Congress.
Blessings

[little john]

Hi Van

Perhaps I should clarify that I'm not saying to anyone "don't checkerboard" - as I'm a great believer in employing ANY procedure which works. What I am saying is "don't assume that because something works in practice, that this necessarily supports the theory being proposed to explain it."

There was an IBRA publication back in 2009, "Maintenance and application of multiple queen colonies in commercial beekeeping" a copy of which can be downloaded from:
https://www.researchgate.net/profile/Christian_Pirk/publication/229087767_Maintenance_and_application_of_multiple_queen_colonies_in_commercial_beekeeping/links/0912f50042369235dc000000/Maintenance-and-application-of-multiple-queen-colonies-in-commercial-beekeeping.pdf

Should you read this, you'll notice that reference is made to a 2004 study which involved 3-queen and 5-queen production colonies. You may also notice that not a single reference is made to any colony having swarmed, indeed the authors comment, "We have also shown that such colonies are stable and can over-winter successfully."

In the past I've also read about 2-queen systems being operated in the West, in which swarming was also noticeably absent - but I can't put my finger on these right now.  I'll try to hunt these down.

'best,
LJ

[BeeMaster2]

LJ,
What method of multiple queen hives do you use?
Do you remove the mandible?
Jim

[little john]

LJ,
What method of multiple queen hives do you use?
Do you remove the mandible?
Jim

Hi Jim
The multi-queen colonies I'm currently working with are 'seasonal set-ups' (meaning that a parent colony is over-wintered with a single-queen, with several daughter queens then raised and added to this colony during the spring). With multiple queens in the same box, these are kept apart by various forms of queen-excluder in order to prevent fighting between them. (rather than achieving this by mandible removal - something I just couldn't bring myself to do)  This arrangement is being created solely for the purpose of raising a sequence of nucleus colonies throughout the season.

In contrast, the Chinese are keeping multi-queen colonies 'all year round' in the form of production colonies.  As you mention - they're able to achieve this by surgically removing each queen's mandibles, then allowing them to live together 'side by side'.
Here's a paper which describes the method being used:
Sustainable multiple queen colonies of honey bees, Apis mellifera ligustica
https://www.researchgate.net/profile/Christian_Pirk/publication/229087765_Sustainable_multiple_queen_colonies_of_honey_bees_Apis_mellifera_ligustica/links/09e41500422cf515ab000000/Sustainable-multiple-queen-colonies-of-honey-bees-Apis-mellifera-ligustica.pdf

Now although they (again) don't mention any swarming having taken place, I think it's fair to assume by such omission that it's not a problem which is being encountered.  In the above paper they comment: "Multiple queen colonies with two to eight queens cohabiting, free running and laying eggs peacefully have been produced since 1999 using the methods described."

As 2-queen colonies are often reported to produce brood and honey some 3x that of a single-queen colony, the output from an 8-queen colony must be congested to the point of being 'off the scale', and which would - under normal circumstances - provoke an instant swarming response.  The presence of multiple queens without generating any swarming response must then surely be of significance ?



For the benefit of others, who may not be 'up to speed' regarding the importance of pheromones (which, being an electronics engineer and not a biologist, is something that Walt Wright would not perhaps have fully appreciated), a good place to start is: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_honey_bee_pheromones

Some recent (2016) research has now increased the 'identifiable' number of compounds present within QMP (Queen Mandibular Pheromone) to 58:
"Honey Bee (Apis mellifera) Queen Reproductive Potential Affects Queen Mandibular Gland Pheromone Composition and Worker Retinue Response"
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4900659/pdf/pone.0156027.pdf

By 'identifiable', I mean that 58 discrete compounds have been identified as existing within QMP - but not all have been 'identified' in the sense of having a name attached to them, nor of establishing their importance nor their function.  Scientists are still only scratching the surface of this particular area of biology.

LJ

[EaglePestEliminators]

having empty space over the broodnest hasn't been much of a problem down here in northeast alabama.  i overwinter with the cluster in a single bottom deep and three medium supers overhead.  my nominal configuration at the end of fall is this:

e = empty comb    h = honey

e e e e e e e e e
e e h h e h h e e
h h h h e h h h h
  bottom deep

at more or less late february here, which is usually once the tree pollens have started coming in and the first rounds of brood are getting reared, i rearrange the super frames to this configuration:

e h e h e h e h e
e h e h e h e h e
e h e h e h e h e
  bottom deep

the genius of checkerboarding is that the bees naturally expand the broodnest up coming out of winter. this upward expansion is aided by the heat rising up from the cluster and the consuming of the honey stored overhead to feed brood.

the checkerboarded supers give them exactly what they need to facilitate upward expansion even more readily than if they have solid honey overhead, i.e. empty comb flanked by honey provides just what they need for that.  as the nest is expanded upward the cluster stays contiguous so there is no problem with keeping the brood warm.

last year we had a mild winter follow by a warm spring with no late frosts or extended rainy periods which allowed for incredible foraging.  i found that the checkerboarded honey was not getting consumed but was rather getting in the way of broodnest expansion.

i ended up moving the honey frames out to the side and the empty comb frames in, i.e. i opened up the the sides broodnest with empty comb.  this worked out well and i had effective swarm prevention as well as good honey yields.

Checkout Harold demonstrates for Walt Wright the Checkerboard process to prevent bee swarms.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=brvZeuPewoM

Not sure checkboard every single super or just the two above the broodnest. Maybe you can figure out.

He used this configuration

e e e e e e e e e
e e h h e h h e e
h h h h e h h h h
  bottom deep

it isn't true checkerboarding?

[Michael Bush]

What Walt's hives looked like when he was done with a shallow of pollen on the bottom, a deep of brood next and then three shallows on top of that that were arranged like this (9 frames in each ten frame box):

ehehehehe
heheheheh
hhhhhhhhh

A short time later they have eaten through the first shallow and have encountered the checkerboarded super.  This is what he showed in his slides in a presentation by him and at least one of his articles showed the same.  I discussed most of this at length with him over the course of several days and late into the night...

[beepro]

Will this method work when I don't have the cap honey frames and just use the drawn comb to store the nectar?

Can I use a QE along with the checker boarding set up?

[Michael Bush]

>Will this method work when I don't have the cap honey frames and just use the drawn comb to store the nectar?

I don't follow.  At the time of year when this is done there is no nectar available.  Capped honey is about all there is to work with.

>Can I use a QE along with the checker boarding set up?

Walt doesn't.  I've not heard of anyone who is using an excluder with it, but someone probably is.

[Acebird]

How does a QE make any sense when there are no supers on?

[beepro]

Everything is prep in advanced, Ace. 
One day I will try it out if there isn't enough drawn comb.

[sc-bee]

As MB stated above Walt's last configuration had one solid of honey above the brood nest and CBing the next super. He was leaving a pollen box on bottom- a prepared deep- and two shallows of honey entering winter. Most of his manuscripts do not show the extra honey super. But Walt was very clear to adapt the system to your timing- area- feed needs. You may not need the extra super. If it works with one as with Steve at Coweta... don't fix what ain't broke.


The main point is to not move brood frames and checker space above. Squarepeg worked with Walt closely and you see squarepegs medium system configuration here that has worked best for him..

[sc-bee]

Nectar management requires three or more shallow supers of empty drawn comb for each hive.  The nectar management manipulation is performed about two months prior to deciduous tree leaf out.  In the Atlanta, Georgia, United States, this is early February. 

All the details below
https://us9.campaign-archive.com/?u=fde92635173303145418ad93c&id=f09e1a9d22

Steve... thanks for adding you post with pics to the thread.....

[minz]

Everything is prep in advanced, Ace. 
One day I will try it out if there isn't enough drawn comb.

Most of the timing is based off of apple bloom. Start recording your apple bloom times for prep of next years timing.
I tried it a couple of years. I thought that my climate and conditions were very similar to that of Walt's. I could not get decent results. 

[gww]

minz
Can you refreash me, was it done about three weeks before apple or at apple bloom?
Thanks
gww

[Acebird]

I lost track of the manuscript I had but I recall it being 6 weeks.  You are looking for two or three rounds of brood to pack the nest.  Up here that could be 2-3 feet of snow doing hive manipulations and temperature swings from 60 to 20.  I have said this to Walt.  There are certain areas of the globe where this will work well and in other areas where it could be a disaster with varying results from year to year.

[gww]

Yes ace. I keep getting mixed up in my mind on all the things I have read and know mel (the mad splitter) has time lines to start and so does walt.  Six weeks would put me in the middle of feb and like you, it could go either way on snow or warmth.  Last year it was real warm but then still a big freeze in early april.  I don't have drawn comb but figure the time lines would also fit with opening the brood nest if the bees could keep it warm.  To me opening the brood nest means some (lots) empty space has to be added to the top of the hive or I have to add it on bottom due to not having drawn comb.

Thanks for the time line.
Cheers
gww

[Acebird]

It is important to keep in mind that Walt's checkerboarding is not a brood nest manipulation at least at the time it is done.  It becomes part of the brood nest when the bees expand into it.  For my area it is a moving target because my bees tend to move up through the honey supers and provide the space they need to raise brood anyway.  I don't know what I would find in my hives if I actually tried to do this 6 weeks before apple bloom up here.  The thing is I am never going to try it.

[gww]

Ace
I did realize that walt didn't mess with the brood nest.  I am just looking at what he is doing to forestall swarming and knowing that I don't have drawn comb to work with for his proceedure and so I am going to experment with what I do have cause swarming beat me last year cause I did nothing early enough.  Gotta work with what you have.  Last year I knew what to do but waited too long for fear of chilling the brood.  This year I may try a few moves early and see if I do chill the brood. Waiting for the first 70 degree day and average 50 degree nights did not work.  I don't have to do them all but am going get close to walts time line and mix it with opening the brood nest and see what it gets me.  If I had drawn comb, I would just try a little checker boarding but have to work from where I am.
Thanks for keeping me honest though.
Cheers
gww

[Acebird]

Checkerboarding is not the only solution  to swarm prevention otherwise we in the north would be doomed.

[minz]

I use the gravenstien apples as my date of april 18th. Checker board date for me is March 1. The idea of checker boarding is arranging the overhead stores to a point that the hive will think it is in trouble (every other honey frame will be open) That will make the hive try to store honey to fill it up before starting swarm prep.  It is done without stealing honey or stopping upward movement.  You do not mess with the brood nest but the overhead solid honey dome.