Robbing

[CoolBees]

I've got a lot to learn.

In previous years, I've had near 100% success rate in starting hives with a frame of brood, a frame of stores, and a good qty of nurse bees.

This year, things are different. Yesterday my daughter pointed to the ground around the 7 nucs and said "why all the dead bees, dad?". Hmmm.

Well ... from what I can tell, it's because of 2 things: a) I've never had really strong (fairly healthy) hives until this year. & b) since I almost lost a couple of nucs last year do to starvation  (me not realizing their needs in advance) I thought I'd avoid that problem this year by placing feeders (jars of sugar-water inside on top) from day 1 after creating each nuc.

I've had to restart 3 of the nucs that didn't even try to raise a queen. Last week I reduced all entrances down to 1.5 inches. Now I think it should be smaller. I'm also thinking feeding should only be put on as needed.

2 of my nucs are large swarms that my buddy had me come get. They are both peaceful towards me, but I can watch them leave their hive and run over to the nucs next door, and start a brawl.

I'm realizing that my really peaceful bees of past years, were really just 3/4 dead bees. Things are a lot different with large healthy(er/ish) hives around. ... Lots to learn (all over again), lots to learn.

[BeeMaster2]

Coolbees,
Try putting your nucs over your queen right hives so that the phenomenons from the q right hives protect the nucs. That is what the Altmiller Split is all about. You can add a screen bottom board to your nucs, place a double screen on the hive and place 2 nucs on top of the double screen.
Jim Altmiller

[CoolBees]

Thank you for the input Jim.

Do the queen pheromones deter robbing? If so, might have to consider doing this.

Alan

[BeeMaster2]

Thank you for the input Jim.

Do the queen pheromones deter robbing? If so, might have to consider doing this.

Alan

That?s the main reason for doing Altmiller Splits. It protects the weak hive. It smells like a strong queen right hive.
Jim Altmiller

[CoolBees]

I see.

If a Nuc was queenright, do you think additional nucs could be stacked on top in the same manner? Obviously, strapped for stability.

For right now, I'm out of town most of next week, and I don't have time to change things before I leave. But when I get back, if things haven't settled down, I will have to follow your advice.

[BeeMaster2]

Yes. A queen right nuc would work just as well. Almost no difference.
Jim Altmiller

[ed/La.]

I find it difficult to make nucs with just a few frames early in the season. Nights are to cool for them to keep brood warm. Also not crazy about small week hive making queens. I prefer to pull the queen and put her in full nuc and let the big strong hive make the queen cells. In 10 or 11 days harvest capped cells and make nucs with them. Also in hive feeding a weak hive is a good way to start robbing. A frame or 2 of stores from another hive or dry sugar on a paper towel or plate is safer.

[van from Arkansas]

Mr. Cool, don?t be so hard on yourself.  You have not mentioned one single unique mistake.  I have made the exact same error in the past with feeding.  We all make mistakes, I have killed a lot of beautiful bees by my errors.  But as stated by many, my bees prosper DESPITE my best efforts.

[CoolBees]

No worries. All of you are awesome. Thank each of you for the answers when I start "scratching my head". ... I'm just thankful that I have some where to turn (vent) when things go sideways (all of you experts) - I've met the local "bee-king" .... (I'd rather go it alone). Thank again.

Oh ... and I had a revelation today - Jim helped a lot this morning  (thank you Sir) - he recommended Altmiller Splits ... Jim Altmiller recommended Altmiller splits. .... I'm a little slow sometimes ... THANK YOU MR ALTMILLER 

[blackforest beekeeper]

Hey Cool!
The main reason for robbing is no queen, no mated queen or a failing queen. pretty much nothing else if one doesn`t make really big mistakes.
When a nuc is made up, give it enough stores and don`t feed, cause they are not a colony yet. when the new queen starts laying and they need feed (no flow at all), feed. also, it is a waste of resources and time, as the queen might still not hatch or get not mated or get eaten or whatever.
it probably is the queen pheromon needed.
I once had an artificial swarm with a seemingly laying queen from a mating mini-box. the feed just disappeared. after a while I realized that the eggs didn`t develop. so she was no "full" queen. I pinched her, added a "full" queen and after that things ran as expected.
so....the colony has to FEEL like a colony to defend itself.

I have my entrances pretty wide open with any colony all year long. never had a robbing issue for years except no queen.

[CoolBees]

Thanks guys - I'll get it working again, with your help.

Blackforest - your explanation makes sense. Thank you! I can see it in my Nucs - one of them ended up with my H1 queen, and I decided to leave her there. She hasn't been robbed even when the entrance was fully open. That hive is very calm.

So - I'll change tactics somewhat going forward.