Beemaster's International Beekeeping Forum
BEEKEEPING LEARNING CENTER => EQUIPMENT USAGE, EXPERIMENTATION, HIVE PLANS, CONSTRUCTION TIPS AND TOOLS => Topic started by: MustbeeNuts on June 07, 2008, 07:23:32 pm
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Well do you think this is ok, i thru it together but a carpenter I ain't. LOL
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b37/bettafan/DSCF1275.jpg)
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b37/bettafan/DSCF1276.jpg)
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Looks good !!
Bee Good Jim 134
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Yeah it does look good. Better than any I've made. Enjoy!
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Yeah, Looks as good as any we've made (2) :) :) 8-)
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Excellent!!!
...JP
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looks good, I kinda figured with the screen going all the way out and no landing board it might coax some to get traped under the screen. I thought about that before but when thinking about it I installed landing boards on all mine when I built them. what I am saying is just a idea I was thinking about not known facts, try it let us know how it does!!
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Looks great.
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One of the two we made has the screen coming out for a landing area. They actually seem to like it. They also seem to get a better grip on it than the white latex painted board on the one beside it.
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Can you provide instructions on what you did? I may attempt this myself.
Thanks,
Derrick
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Would like to know about bee hotfoot ?
The reason I ask I had some # 6 nails laying on a piece of metal screen wire laying on the ground.
84 degrees in direct sun light, nails were hot to the touch, not burning, but to warm to comfortable hold on too.
How hot does # 8 wire cloth get in direct sun light ?
Just wondering.
Bee-Bop
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Derrick,
Sure its pretty straight forward really first think I did was get some 1x3 board pine and some 1x2 board pine, I cut two pieces of the 1x3 at 22' and one pieces at 14 3/4 , then I took the 1x2 and cut two piece at 14 3/4 ,and two pieces at 19'', I took the one by three and made the back and the two long sides, and used a 1x2 for the other end, the one by two I set on a 3/4 piece to keep it at the right height for a entrance reducer. infact that is what I used to hold it up, an old reducer on hand, then I glued and nailed it together keeping it as square as possible. I then took the three remaining pieces of 1x2 and ran it around the inside of the 1x3 frame, nailed and glued it in place. then just stapled the #8 HWC in place, trimmed it and done.
One thing I did on the second one was that I changed the lay of the 1x2 so that it was edge way back on the front sorta like a short landing board. the one in the picture goes up down, the new went front to back, reversed the two pieces actually (see picture) thats all there is too it. :)
Can you provide instructions on what you did? I may attempt this myself.
Thanks,
Derrick
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Do you have a spot for a slide out tray to check for mites and close it in the wintertime?
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Do you have a spot for a slide out tray to check for mites and close it in the wintertime?
Not with these, I figured I could cut a piece of thin plywood and just slide it in. However I just picked up a bench saw and a data set so the next ones will have a cut for a slide in. I plan on trying my hand at making all the woodware myself. Should be a real experience, but with shipping costs going up, should be a nice cost saver. I'll post them later. I'm still learning how to be a wood cutter. LOL
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Do you have a spot for a slide out tray to check for mites and close it in the wintertime?
I found a pretty cool poster that shows another way to check for mites. take bees in a jar cover with powdered sugar, shake them up a little then shake the powder into a white bucket, mites show up and you count and make an estimate of the load on the hive. I can't find the link but its at the U of M. If I can find it I'll post it later tonight. :)
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The U of TN , Knoxville has plenty of info on getting mite load also. Dr. Skinner is a little eccentric but a good teacher.
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"I'm still learning how to be a wood cutter".
Mustbeenuts, You may already know about this link, but here it is any way. I've built several things using there plans.
http://www.beesource.com/plans/index.htm