Escape board first try.

[220]

Tried using a escape board for the first time and ran into a major issue.
Hive is 2 deep brood boxes, excluder, 2 deep supers inner cover that has been notched for a top entrance and a migatory lid.
Removed the 2 supers, place the partially filled one above the excluder, the escape board then the full super. Reversed the inner cover and covered the feeder hole so there was no access through the top entrance put the lid on and came back 2.5hrs later.
When I lifted the lid there were 2-300 bees that had entered through the top but couldnt get in to the hive. When I popped the inner cover there must have 5000 bees come boiling out. Walked away and a few minute later would have only been a few hundred bees left in the box.
I knew they were using the top entrance but didnt realise to what extent and the thought never crossed my mind that with bees using both the upper and lower entrance I would need 2 escapes to clear it while still on the hive.

[Oldbeavo]

you would need a super on the top for them to escape into, regular chimney stack, would be 5 high!

[Troutdog]

Tried using a escape board for the first time and ran into a major issue.
Hive is 2 deep brood boxes, excluder, 2 deep supers inner cover that has been notched for a top entrance and a migatory lid.
Removed the 2 supers, place the partially filled one above the excluder, the escape board then the full super. Reversed the inner cover and covered the feeder hole so there was no access through the top entrance put the lid on and came back 2.5hrs later.
When I lifted the lid there were 2-300 bees that had entered through the top but couldnt get in to the hive. When I popped the inner cover there must have 5000 bees come boiling out. Walked away and a few minute later would have only been a few hundred bees left in the box.
I knew they were using the top entrance but didnt realise to what extent and the thought never crossed my mind that with bees using both the upper and lower entrance I would need 2 escapes to clear it while still on the hive.

Place the crown board above the last active (partial super).
Place the escape on top of the crown, the supers you want vacated. Then tight top cover.

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[Acebird]

If you were using an upper entrance I would recommend blocking it off the day before to give them time to use the new lower entrance.  I also recommend leaving the escape board on at least overnight.  I harvest in the fall when I know the temperatures will get down in the 40F's.  This ensures that they cluster at night.  If there is brood or they are working on curing nectar they don't want to leave.  It might be three days before they have to poop.  But if it gets into the 40's they have to cluster.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nHDfDgHWCEo

I just pull the tele cover back to cover the notch in the inner cover.

[Oldbeavo]

Acebird is correct, leave the bee escape on for 24 - 48 hrs, the colder the night the better clearance. I only have a lid on top so they get cold quicker and feel the warmth from below and down they go.

[b2bnz]

Bee escape boards are fine but you need to go to the apiary twice, once to install the boards and again, at least 24 hours later to take off the honey supers.
Best to use Flischers Bee Quick liquid and a fume board and even a bit of smoke to speed up the process. I can clear honey supers of bees within 5 minutes, or the time it takes me to take off a honey super, brush off the remainder of the bees and load it into my station wagon. The fume board is on the next hive while doing the above. Priceless!

[220]

I wasnt expecting 100% clearance with them still curing some of the outside frames.
24hrs would certainly give those that had been using the top entrance time to adjust and find the bottom exit.
It really surprised me the number of bees that have obviously been using the top entrance, it is only a 3/8x1" notch. Guess it should really be a surprise as 5 frame nucs seem to get along just fine with a similar sized entrance.

[cao]

I've never tried bee escape boards.  Too many SHBs in my area.  Fume boards don't work to well for me either.  At least not on the hive.  I put a fume board below an empty super then transfer frames with honeycomb to that box after shaking off most of the bees.  The rest off the bees will leave the comb and return to the hive pretty quick. 

As far as entrances, I run all my hives with entrances reduced.  Typically 3/8"x3".  All bottom entrances.

[Oldbeavo]

What is in Fischers Bee Quick, I have not seen it in Australia?
Plese describe a fume board?

[Acebird]

24hrs would certainly give those that had been using the top entrance time to adjust and find the bottom exit.

Not all bees exit the hive every day.  Old foragers would not be a problem they would go to another entrance in a few hours.  New bees taking training flights using the top entrance might take longer.  I think the problem bees that haven't taken flight yet are the problem.  I tried twice to just pull a box off and stand it on its side letting the bees go back to the hive they came from.  The first time it worked great.  The second time not so much and there was no brood in the box.  The escape board always works if I give it enough time and I don't put it too low in the stack.  With the jacking device I made I only have to lift the box once to take them off.  The hives are in my back yard so there is no hardship, although there are commercial guys using escape boards.  So it boils down to what you like.