Beemaster's International Beekeeping Forum
BEEKEEPING LEARNING CENTER => NATURAL & ORGANIC BEEKEEPING METHODS => Topic started by: Michael Bush on April 17, 2017, 11:01:36 am
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Finally narrow foundationless and narrow foundation, deeps and mediums, it looks like:
http://forestbees.com/new-products
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Finally narrow foundationless and narrow foundation, deeps and mediums, it looks like:
http://forestbees.com/new-products
These look pretty good, but a bit costly.
Aren't PF120s as good since they get drawn pretty good even being the standard size?
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I use a lot of both 1 1/4" foundationless and PF120s. They are both useful.
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At that price I should go into business making my own and selling them. I had thought about that once but shipping costs had discouraged me.
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>At that price I should go into business making my own and selling them.
If you want to, I'll get you some plans for what I would like...
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Michael. I would like to see dimensions for what you feel is the ideal frame.
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Michael. I would like to see dimensions for what you feel is the ideal frame.
Other than the width, I would like to know if there are any other dimensions that would be different than standard.
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There are some variations in "standard". Top bar widths run from as wide as 1 1/16" down to 1" on a standard frame. 1" works ok at 1 1/4" spacing. Less works fine too. You can get by with 1 1/16" but it makes a queen hesitate to go through the gap and they will burr it some. If I remember right the ones in the above link are 1" wide.
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The reason I asked is in most cases the economy of production is hard to beat so rather than make a few hundred, maybe a thousand frames special from scratch it is sometimes better to buy standard pieces and modify them to what you want. Basically you are only asking to shave off a whisker from standard.
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What I've done until now is buy them custom made when someone is willing to do it, and shave off standard frames when I don't have anyone to make custom frames... Most of my standard frames end up with slightly less than 1/4" gaps between the top bars which is not ideal, but, as you say, sometimes it's the most practical. 3/16" gaps work ok, but not ideal.
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What I am suggesting is buy the pieces and modify them so you do get the proper spacing and then assemble the frames or better yet send the modified pieces to you for assembly which will improve shipping cost.
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Shaving end bars is pretty simple. If I have to cut the top bars down in width also, then it starts to reach the point where it might be easier to make my own frames.
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I am making my own frames and I am so slow. It takes a lot more wood then you would think also. It will take me three days not working but three or four hours, to make 40 frames. I have never tried just shaving cause I am too cheap to buy frames and have more time then money. If TV were not the only alturnitive to making frames, it would have to be cheaper over all to buy them even if you shave them. However, I only have one hoby and so I make them.
Cheers
gww