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Author Topic: Late summer queen cells  (Read 4547 times)

Offline TheHoneyPump

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Re: Late summer queen cells
« Reply #20 on: August 31, 2018, 04:00:14 am »
How many hives are you trying to manage through this and what are their configurations (#boxes high, #frames brood total, #frames bees total, notes or concerns of each)? 
I gathered from the thread thus far that:
- one hive is queenless with queen cells. (the queen inadvertently killed)
- one hive has a cripple dud queen
- one hive is weak with only 2 frames of bees/brood
- ...
- ...

Are we talking 2 to 5 backyard hives here or 50 or 100 or 1000's ... ?

If there are just a few and you can lay down a good description of your apiary and status of each hive, we may be able to help with a step-by-step do this to fix them all at once plan.
When the lid goes back on, the bees will spend the next 3 days undoing most of what the beekeeper just did to them.

Offline Duane

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Re: Late summer queen cells
« Reply #21 on: August 31, 2018, 01:58:58 pm »
wrt the comment/debate about waiting for a queen to be raised: 
An attempt at summarizing what Ed is saying that at this point of the season any hive intended to make the winter, it must be a fully functioning hive - RIGHT NOW.  Complete with laying queen, minimum 4 frames full of brood of all stages, plenty of stores, and a box nearly overflowing with bees.  If it does not meet ALL of that criteria, it is a hive that is already dead but the bees in there just do not know it yet.  Or perhaps they do and it is the beekeeper who is missing the signs. 
This is probably where I was confused.  I had thought bees were supposed to be shutting down on raising brood in the fall.  I have about 13 hives and two had 6+ frames of brood.  Some have small patches of capped brood, with just a few eggs laid around the edges.  Most are one box of 8 medium frames.   Which told me they were doing what they were supposed to and that the two hives were not shutting down and would use their resources up through winter.  That's why I was trying to move brood around to slow them down.  I was concerned the season is over is why I've been feeding for some time now.  Most have quite a bit of sugar water, but I was concerned that maybe too much and they were swarming.  So anyway, that's what I was thinking in asking all these questions, but maybe I'm wrong.  From what you're saying, I only had 2 good hives and now I accidentally killed the queen of one. 

By the way, how does one keep from killing the queen?  Or like you say, it just happens.  I try to carefully pull the frames out, but sometimes they stick or come up crooked and if the queen was on the side bars, she'd be dead like others.  Usually the I see the queen stays in the middle.

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If you are dead set intent on trying to get a queen(s) out of this.  Then suggest to still rip apart and tear down the hive for resources, but take one frame with a few QC's and setup a 2 frame nuc.  Let that nuc go for producing a queen, while not stressing a whole hive of bees over it.  Get the rest of the bees and resources into new welcoming homes (combine).
I like to learn things as long as it doesn't harm the rest of my hives.  I was thinking this would be excellent for an observation hive if I had one.  Maybe along the lines I was asking previously, I could make a small nuc for the queen cells, get the queen laying, then replace the dud queen?  She's still laying, just doesn't look right to me.  Then they'd still have eggs going and get a good (?) queen later.  And I could give some brood to them now.

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Hope that helps, in some way, with a push in the right direction with this.
Yes, I've learned "hoping" in the past did not turn out well.  I need to do something, but have read stories of how weak colonies that survived become booming colonies the next year, so that delays me, but I did move some brood over to the one hive and it seems like it's going much better now.  So I need to do more with the others.

Offline BeeMaster2

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Re: Late summer queen cells
« Reply #22 on: August 31, 2018, 03:49:48 pm »
Duane,

The way to protect your queen during inspections is to remove an end frame first, Queens are seldom on the 2 end frames, and leave it out during the inspection. Move the next frame to the open area and then remove it. Put it back in slot 1 and take the next one out. Keep using the open space to remove frames. This way you are not rolling your bees.
Jim
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Offline TheHoneyPump

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Late summer queen cells
« Reply #23 on: September 01, 2018, 02:48:43 am »
What type of queens are they? - Italians do not readily shut down. She needs to be crowded out of space to lay by syrup/nectar.
If you are removing frames of brood, replacing those with empty frame, AND feeding continuously - that is actually stimulating the queen. 

My experience is the queens do not shut down because it is August or September.  I do not recall ever seeing a calendar posted on the inner walls of a beehive box with the days crossed off by propolis X's.
The triggers that slow the colony down are:
- high resources and low space. Out of space to lay or to put stuff means the work is done and they start to relax.
- Dearth.  No resources coming in means no work to be done and no need for more mouths to feed
- Colder 24hr cycle.  Colder nights and shorter days.  Difficult to raise lots of brood when it is all they can do just to stay warm and stay alive
Until those are met, they will keep brooding.


Killing the queen accidentally happens by how you handle frames upon entering and leaving the hive and keeping track of where she is.  Beware she will jump across frames and cross the box faster than can be imagined.  I keep a queen catcher clip or cage in my pocket.  Enter the hive by removing and edge frame and setting it outside the hive.  Then can go through the rest of the frames with more room to work. When you see the queen, catch her with the clip or your fingers.  Set her safely on top bar of far frame in the clip or the cage.  Finish your inspection and put all frames back. Final step, release the queen from the clip/cage between the top bars of the center frames. Once she?s walked down safely, gone.  Then close up.


To put the QC?s in a nuc to mate a queen while you keep the cripple going and to replace the cripple later, would be a viable plan to follow.  However, the Likelihood of success at this time of year is around 10%.

Please be conscientious that at this time in the season the impact of any resources you take from one hive to help a ?dink? hive is weakening the donor hive and reducing its ability to make the coming winter.  It will take them a month to rearrange the nest to fix whatever manipulations you have done.  do they have that much time left in your area/climate. 

***. What works for me is this guiding adage:   Fall is the time to cut the weak to boost the strong for winter.  Spring is the time to cut the strong to boost the weak for summer.   Opposite ends of the winter demand opposite actions to be made by the beekeeper.
« Last Edit: September 03, 2018, 04:37:33 am by TheHoneyPump »
When the lid goes back on, the bees will spend the next 3 days undoing most of what the beekeeper just did to them.

Offline Acebird

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Re: Late summer queen cells
« Reply #24 on: September 01, 2018, 08:46:54 am »
By the way, how does one keep from killing the queen?  Or like you say, it just happens.  I try to carefully pull the frames out, but sometimes they stick or come up crooked and if the queen was on the side bars, she'd be dead like others.  Usually the I see the queen stays in the middle.

Follow the HoneyPump directions.  If you use smoke the queen is not going to be on the extremities of the frames.  Most likely she will be in the center and maybe covered in bees which makes is hard to see her.  Space is the key to not rolling a queen.  Do not put an extra frame in the brood box even though it might fit.
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Offline beepro

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Re: Late summer queen cells
« Reply #25 on: September 04, 2018, 01:44:44 am »
If you want to make a strong hive for this winter then do a newspaper combine on both nuc A and B to the
strong hive A.   This way you will only have one strong hive to overwinter with.   Comes Spring again you can
use the hive resource from the strong hive to expand again.   What ever you do make sure you have one strong hive to
overwinter otherwise they may not all make it if they're the weak hives.   I currently have 3 strong hives for this winter. 

 

anything