Author Topic: Hive beetles (Read 9252 times)

BeeMaster2 · « **Reply #20 on:** August 25, 2018, 05:31:21 pm »

Paus,
There is a good chance the hive with the beetles is about to swarm or just swarmed. When a hive preps for swarming, the beetles can smell it and they are attracted from miles away to that hive.
Jim

Ben Framed · « **Reply #21 on:** August 25, 2018, 05:41:40 pm »

Quote from: fadder on July 13, 2018, 02:27:20 am

Beetle blasters, swifer sheets, freeman type oil trays will all do a good job. Some a bit better than others but salt, Gold Star, cement, gravel, vinegar will kill some of the larva but will do nothing to stop adults from flying into your hive.

I realize this but, if I be use the beetle blasters and still spray under and around the hives I should be able to keep the beetles under control. Plus I don't have to mow or weedeat around the bees now.

Knock em dead Paus!!!! Is this the hive beetle bait that you bought from the supply house or one of your own? Thanks, Phillip

paus · « **Reply #22 on:** August 25, 2018, 06:07:39 pm »

I bought this bait.

sc-bee · « **Reply #23 on:** August 25, 2018, 11:57:02 pm »

Quote from: paus on August 25, 2018, 06:07:39 pm

I bought this bait.

Roach Poison?

paus · « **Reply #24 on:** August 26, 2018, 10:31:35 am »

No this is a lure only. I have been thinking about the boric acid I really don't think it would be detrimental to the bees but the oil or dishwater works and it is completely safe unless your DSBB has a crack so bees can enter. Another thing I have used is Sodium Meta hexa Phosphate in the water which is the active part of "Calgon", It is safe as some processes for treating bottled water contains SHMP. I painted one DSBB black on the inside so it would be more attrctive to SHB the jury is still out.

Ben Framed · « **Reply #25 on:** August 26, 2018, 12:15:31 pm »

Quote from: paus on August 26, 2018, 10:31:35 am

No this is a lure only. I have been thinking about the boric acid I really don't think it would be detrimental to the bees but the oil or dishwater works and it is completely safe unless your DSBB has a crack so bees can enter. Another thing I have used is Sodium Meta hexa Phosphate in the water which is the active part of "Calgon", It is safe as some processes for treating bottled water contains SHMP. I painted one DSBB black on the inside so it would be more attrctive to SHB the jury is still out.

Thanks Paus, Sounds to me like the lure is doing a great job! Thanks for sharing your updates! I am anxious to see what the jury says about the black paint on the inside . Thanks Phillip Hall

Michael Bush · « **Reply #26 on:** August 27, 2018, 11:21:26 am »

This is what I got when I tried swiffer pads this year for the first time. All the hives were similar:
http://www.bushfarms.com/images/SwifferPad.jpg

Ben Framed · « **Reply #27 on:** August 27, 2018, 11:52:25 am »

Concerning the Hive Beetles, I sent this PM to paus. Thanks for the update. This is my first year. I did three cutouts and lost one to the beetles. That's when I read your post about the oil trays along with others. Being that you stressed the difference that it made for you, I'm glad that I listened.
So with the two hives that I had left, I made two, two frame splits from each of these (last week) using the mini mating Nuc design used by David and Jimmy at Backyard bees. I did this with a different twist however. I used a five frame Nuc box with a divider so the queens or bees can't cross over, and at the bottom an oil tray. That way the tray serves two mini mating Nucs at a time. So far all is well. I checked yesterday and only found 3 live beetles out of all six nucs. (I turned the 2 original hives into 5 frame nucs hoping they will build up faster and have a better chance at the beetles.) Acording to Joe May I have plenty of time for build up with theses before winter. So hopefully I will go into winter with six nucs. And hopefully strong ones at that. Oh and by the way, I got the four queens from David at barnyard bees. Nice folks!! Thank you Paus, sincerely, Phillip Hall

paus · « **Reply #28 on:** August 27, 2018, 03:40:51 pm »

Just checked the oil pan for more SHB. There are a few more but very few. After a closer look at the white larva I think that most of the larva are bee larva from cross comb correction three days ago. They don't look like SHB larva. This is the only hive I have that are still in full shade. Checked another Swarm trap that was combined with queenless cut out. Two deep 50 -60 o/o full. I just saw my first goldenrod so maybe they will be OK for winter. I plan on checking in two days I will get an indication and see if any SHB larva have hatched, they will be in the oil pan

Van, Arkansas, USA · « **Reply #29 on:** August 27, 2018, 05:20:36 pm »

Paus, honey bee larva don?t crawl. If you have crawling larva it is either beetle or moth. Beetle larvae have 6 stubs, 3 on each side, equally spaced, right equals left, that develope into legs, moth larva has stubs the length of the larva. These stubs are dark brown, think portrusions equally spaced on either side of larva close to the head. The stubs protrude 1/32 of an inch and represent an excellent means of identifying the larva. Mature moth larva can be over an inch, small hive beetle larva are much smaller. Beetle larva slime whereas moth larva leave silk threads.

Good luck with the beetles, I hate those darn things.

paus · « **Reply #30 on:** August 27, 2018, 05:32:42 pm »

I am certain it was cut bee larva from the cross comb correction part of the cross comb was through brood, None of these larva were moving and SHB larva try to crawl. Yeah I know but you have to use tough love. I have had the regretful experience of a slim out I have pictures of thousands of these SHB larva and several hundred SHB. Between a robbing from a hive next door and my not getting the oil pan in, in time, this was the demise of a promising swarm.

Van, Arkansas, USA · « **Reply #31 on:** August 27, 2018, 05:47:54 pm »

SC and MBush, thank for posting the pictures. The results are amazing, one pleasurable with trapped beetles, the other depressing with so many dead trapped bees. But the pictures represent a much larger delimia, one that confuses beeks to this day:

That is: what works beautiful for one fella, fails for another, both applying correct applicable measures. These results causes much confusion among beekeepers. I am a firm believer what works for you is great but may or may not work for another beek: environment, type of bee, weather, housing are all variables that can create frustrations when tackling issues such as beetles. Use what works for you, I use fingers, hive tools, freeze spray, screened bottom boards {sbb}with diatonic earth, beetle blasters. Sometimes I bait the sbb with a small chunk of grease/pollen surrounded by diatomaceous earth.

Thank you SC and Bush for the photos.

Ben Framed · « **Reply #32 on:** August 27, 2018, 06:02:17 pm »

@ Van. Mr Van , I have a question and am trying to learn all I can and try to be open minded as possibilities are always presenting themselves. The question is, are you having as good results with the diatomaceous earth as Paus is with the oil trays as he has described? Seems the diatomaceous earth would be less tedious to use but I am loving the results that I, myself have already gotten and am getting from the oil trays. Thanks, Phillip Hall

@ Paus. Have you tried the diatomaceous earth? If so what did this do for you in comparison to the oil trays?
Thanks men, Soncerely, Phillip Hall

paus · « **Reply #33 on:** August 27, 2018, 07:24:21 pm »

I am a very patient person but I enjoy the Polaroid mind set occasionally. I want to see results NOW. DE may work as well but I can't see the dead beetles. In our humidity it cakes and requires the time and effort to crush it or scatter it under the hives and get fresh DE. AS mentioned before I work DE in the soil around the neoprene roofing material under the hive stands. This roofing allows me to mow without having to use a weed whacker or hand pull weeds.

Beeboy01 · « **Reply #34 on:** August 27, 2018, 07:39:39 pm »

Just found this thread about SHB's, been battling them for years and here's one of my methods to get them out of a hive. I take a piece of 1/4 inch screen or #8 depending on what you have available and tack it onto a wooden frame that fits around a shallow plastic container. Fill the container about half way with soapy water and head out to the bee yard. When performing an inspection and you find a frame with SHB's on it take the frame and smack it against the screening. The SHB's fall through and drown while any bees bounce off the screen and fly away. Most of the time I find the beetles on the two outside frames of the box, it's where the bees have driven them.
Oil tray work great and I have had success with them also.

Van, Arkansas, USA · « **Reply #35 on:** August 28, 2018, 01:16:15 pm »

Paus, the diatomaceous earth is applied to the bottom of the screen board, not on the ground.

Mr. Ben, I have used oil trays with great success. However in my environment, I find the oil trays quickly over come with black mold. I realize bees hate mold and I feared abscond, so I switched to diatomaceous earth.

I have used several types of screen bottom boards and I find FREEMAN works best for me. The tray is tight fit so bees cannot slip under the screen. The other types of screen bottom boards are loose and my bees can get under the screen, but not with a FREEMAN.

paus · « **Reply #36 on:** August 28, 2018, 02:05:55 pm »

van, When I used DE I tried it in a pan just like the oil and it crusted over, making the crush necessary. The DE that is applied in the soil is all around the roofing material edge , then when larva crawl off the roofing they burrow in soil that has been mixed with DE. This is supposed to kill SHB larva as they burrow into the ground to pupate,

according to what THEY say And They is never wrong

My DSBB are bee proof.

Van, Arkansas, USA · « **Reply #37 on:** August 28, 2018, 02:49:37 pm »

Yes, Agreed, Paus,,,I have to reapply my diatomaceous earth,,,,, every 2-3 weeks. Or just after wind blown rain. I carry diatomaceous earth in a large used spice shaker, I sprinkle it on sbb. The spice shaker once held black pepper about pint size and is convient with the self closing lid. Whatever works, just kill those darn beetles any way ya can.

Ben Framed · « **Reply #38 on:** August 29, 2018, 12:57:33 am »

Quote from: Van, Arkansas, USA on August 28, 2018, 01:16:15 pm

Mr. Ben, I have used oil trays with great success. However in my environment, I find the oil trays quickly over come with black mold. I realize bees hate mold and I feared abscond, so I switched to diatomaceous earth.

I have used several types of screen bottom boards and I find FREEMAN works best for me. The tray is tight fit so bees cannot slip under the screen. The other types of screen bottom boards are loose and my bees can get under the screen, but not with a FREEMAN.

Thanks Mr Van, I put together some new home built bottoms from scratch with number 8 hardware cloth for the screened bottoms. I have them fixed where bees can't enter the oil tray compartment at the bottom and have a little door fixed where I can open and remove the oil pan for cleaning and reloading when necessary. I first add water, just plain water in the pan then add Apple Cider Vinegar, (the type with 5% Mother), with the water and not much vinegar at all. Just enough vinegar added to spruce up the smell of the water. On top of these ingredients, I add used cooking oil, and enough to completely cover the water and vinegar while floating of top of these. I feel this does at least two things when applied in this manner. first, the water and vinegar can't evaporate easily because they are sealed in the pan with the oil on top. Second, when the beetle falls or climbs into the oil, He is a goner! I don't know this for a fact but I am thinking that the oil coating of the beetle cuts off his ability to breath just as soapy water might do with wasp? Irregardless, they die!! This was about a month ago and so far, no mold, or evaporation only dead beetles! Could it be that the vinegar in the water works as a retardant for mold? Thanks for your reply.
Sincerely, Phillip Hall "Ben Framed"

Ben Framed · « **Reply #39 on:** August 29, 2018, 01:04:23 am »

Quote from: paus on August 27, 2018, 07:24:21 pm

I am a very patient person but I enjoy the Polaroid mind set occasionally. I want to see results NOW. DE may work as well but I can't see the dead beetles. In our humidity it cakes and requires the time and effort to crush it or scatter it under the hives and get fresh DE. AS mentioned before I work DE in the soil around the neoprene roofing material under the hive stands. This roofing allows me to mow without having to use a weed whacker or hand pull weeds.

Thanks paus, I am very very happy with the results that I have gotten with the screened oil bottom addition. I also want to thank Jim as well as others for his and their encouragement to go with the screened oil bottoms. I agree with you on this one, I want to see the little suckers dead immediately also!! Keep up the good work!!
Phillip Hall "Ben Framed"