Rough Cut Lumber?

[Kev]

Any reason that I can't use rough-cut pine 1x lumber for hive bodies and supers? It's not planed, but works pretty nicely and makes for nice bird houses.

Kev

[Paraplegic Racehorse]

There is no reason you can't use roughcut. You will probably have to adjust your plans, though, to get proper interior dimensions for your boxes.

[Kev]

You're right, the plans I have are for standard dimensional lumber. It's pretty expensive, which makes a super cheaper to buy than build.

Kev

[Paraplegic Racehorse]

Well... Yes and no. I buy roughcut lumber to build my boxes with. This fall, I got 400 linear feet of 1x8-roughcut for about USD100. That same would have cost me closer to USD450 finished. I can now rent a planer for USD80-100/day and plane my roughcut to finished size in an afternoon. I still save enough to buy some foundation and feed and I can use the larger wood chunks thrown from the planer in my smoker.

Of course, these numbers are for my area only. I live in a heavily wooded part of Alaska and there are lots of small time mills producing prodigious amounts of roughcut. Your area may vary. It cannot hurt to explore your options thoroughly.

[Kev]

This fall, I got 400 linear feet of 1x8-roughcut for about USD100.

I just built a shed from 1x8 roughcut. It's not as cheap as up where you are, but still reasonable.

Why bother with the planing at all, seems like and extra step?

Also, do you air-dry it?

Kev

[Paraplegic Racehorse]

Why bother with the planing at all, seems like and extra step?
Also, do you air-dry it?

I plane it down to finished sizes (3/4x7-5/8 in this case) so I don't have to modify my build plans to keep consistant interior dimensions and so I can use the sawdust in my compost and burn larger wood chunks in my smoker.

The wood I bought this fall has been quietly drying in the crawlspace under a friend's house that stays a fairly consistant 55F all winter. For this lot, that was not entirely necessary since it's already four years seasoned, but neither can it hurt. :) Also, it takes less space to store raw lumber than constructed boxes.

[TwT]

I can by from someone with a small saw mill here rough cut lumber, it runs from about 33-38 cent a foot for true 1"x6" , it is alot cheaper to buy that way, I am planning to buy a planer also, I just like working with finished lumber but rough cut should be fine.....

[wtiger]

I would say the most important thing is that the lumber it properly dried.  Either for many years in a barn or some such or preferably kiln dried to about 14ish % himidity.  If it's not properly dried your hives will probably crack and blow apart on a hot and humid summer day.  I have a small woodworking business and I won't even touch material that's not properly dried.  All it will do is cost you much frustration and lots of money fixing/remaking.

[Kev]

I would say the most important thing is that the lumber it properly dried.  Either for many years in a barn or some such or preferably kiln dried to about 14ish % himidity. 

If it's stored in a house, about how long does it take to get down to 14%. The stuff around here is pretty green. It'll squirt you if you drive a #12 into it.

Kev

[wtiger]

many years.  say 5+ depending on humidity.  The last job I did where someone brought in their own lumber it was lumber that his father had cut about 35-40 years prieviously.  Worked really well.  You don't see 16/4+ walnut planks very often that are properly dried.  Oh and if it's a hardwood it should be about 8-10% humidity.  the best way to check it is with an electronic humidity gauge

[Kev]

many years.  say 5+ depending on humidity. 

wow, that long even if it's in plank form and separated so it breathes. I had no idea.

thanks for that info.
kev

[randydrivesabus]

using kiln dried lumber for any outside application is foolish. the lumber will absorb moisture and no longer be kiln dried. if you let it air dry for 6 months you should be good to go. the lumber you buy at a lumber yard/home center is only air dried. it is usually marked s-dry or surface dry. this means its been dried to 19% moisture or less.

[wtiger]

I disagree.  I have never seen air dried lumber, particularly pine in the sized and thicknesses for a hive body that didn't warp and split all over the place even if it was painted or stained.  Also glue won't do you any good either; because it's just too wet and sappy and again it'll want to warp and split as it dries further.  If it's kiln dried or air dried for a long period it  may pick up a little moisture from outside, but it should have some sort of finish on the outside and the bees will take care of the inside.  It will be much more stable.  Do what you want, but I won't work with air dried pine for anything, but structural supports.

[Kev]

Considering that one 1x8x10 will cost me 3.20, I may chance it and see how it hold up. I don't mind wasting the money and time.... well all I've got is time.

thanks for the advice.

Kev

[wff]

The rule of thumb I use for air drying wood is 1 year plus 1 year per inch of thickness for winter-felled spruce and birch, 2 years plus 1 year per inch for spring/summer-felled.  That's if it's stacked on stickers, under a roof, and ventilated.  Never tested the moisture, but my entire house is built from it and it hasn't cracked apart yet.

[Finsky]

I made 40 years ago hive bodies from roughcut lumber. I use them only in summer and as  honey boxes.
They are at same condition as 40 years ago.

As brood boxes I use styrofoam. Even wood would be free, styrof. is woth using.
Uninsulated hivebodies consume 50% more winter food and spring build up is slow.

However the surface of lumber should be smooth = planed . It saves paint and is easy to keep clean.

Look at corners how I made boxes from 40 mm x 30 mm billets. Billets are connected with rough galvanized nails. Construction tak takes too much clue.
 

[bluegrass]

As far as drying goes... don't worry about it. The boxes will be out side and will become whatever humidity the outside in your area is. If you are buying rough sawn at the mill it is green. Most demensional lumber is kiln dried and if you look on the side of the unit at the lumber yard it will be marked as KDS (for spruce) KDP (for pine) etc. Even kiln dried has moisture in it. If you store it in a house it will dry more and twist or cup. To straighten it back out soak in a tub of water, or if you have alot of wood you can stack it out side and run a sprinkler on it.

[Kev]

I made 40 years ago hive bodies from roughcut lumber. I use them only in summer and as  honey boxes.

However the surface of lumber should be smooth = planed . It saves paint and is easy to keep clean.

That was sort of what I was thinking -- making a few supers out of roughcut and sticking with styrofoam for the brood chambers.

I'm going to have a shot at this later in the spring.

[Kirk-o]

oh yeah go ahead ruff cut lumber is ok
kirk-o