BEEKEEPING LEARNING CENTER > TOP BAR HIVES - WARRE HIVES - LONG HIVES
Hive entrance
Johnny:
round holes 2
rectangle holes 0
little john:
I've been using multiple 22mm circular holes (wine cork size) in all of my hives thus far, but I'm conscious that wide narrow-height slots do appear to reduce traffic-jams of the pedestrian variety which can result when flying insects become crawling insects as they enter the hive.
LJ
tycrnp:
I have read it is best to put swarm traps 20 - 30 feet off of the ground in a tree, near water. Any thoughts?
Bob Wilson:
Resurrecting an old thread here.
My bees were beginning to beard a lot in my long lang, and I also worried about moisture in the hive during our humid Georgia winters, so I closed up the bottom entrance. I raised one of the 4 migratory tops laying in a row on top of the hive with two shims to create an end entrance, and after a few days, they really took to it. The brood area is at the entrance, and the bees are building backwards towards the other end, where they are capping honey. It's also easier to work the hive with the entrance at the end. A piece of thick vinyl covers the whole hive. I just pull the vinyl back and then remove one of the 4 tops where I need to inspect.
Biggworm:
You probably need to remove the plastic sheet on top of your hive. Probably doesn't let much moisture escape the hive. They need that fresh dry air to control temperature and to dry out their honey/nectar.
Hope this helps.
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