Welcome, Guest

Author Topic: Wood buying decision  (Read 9173 times)

Offline omnimirage

  • House Bee
  • **
  • Posts: 310
Wood buying decision
« on: August 02, 2016, 03:29:47 am »
I've contacted every lumber mill in my state, and went to numerous salvage yards looking for suitable wood to build beehives out of, and now I need to decide what to actually buy.

One salvage yard is offering radiata pine, 190x19mm, $6 per linear meter. The wood looks decent quality; it's straight, seems to be some sort of dress wood, doesn't have any smells or look off. It has a label on their from the manufacture, and I contacted them to confirm that it hasn't been chemically treated. A decent amount of the wood has knots in it, maybe one in four, but I'm able to buy the individual pieces that I like. Being able to buy individual pieces of wood is also an advantage, as I don't have to invest so much up front.

A local mill is offering me wood also. It's 245x19mm, going at $5.50 per linear meter. The cheap price is on the condition that I buy all 216 meters of it, which is close to $1200. It's also dressed pine, untreated, kiln dried, supposed to be straight. He tells me that he ordered this wood in for a client, but they didn't buy all of it and he now has this excess that he's looking to get rid of.

I no longer wish to build deep supers, and am looking to transition into using mediums. I note that, though, 245mm is about the height of a deep super; if I'm already acquiring wood at that depth, maybe I should just build deeps? I'm really not sure. Would I need to trim down the sides at all, since the deeps actual depth is 244.4750mm? I figure if I build mediums out of it, I should be able to use the 77mm spare on something, perhaps building bits for lids.

Buying the bulk package also means that I'm unable to cherry pick the good pieces of wood, and a lot of it could be knotted.

My last option is ordering wood from another state, and have it freighted to me. Freight and costs factored in, it's being sold for $5.2 per linear meter, at 245x22mm. Is there any benefit having that extra 3mm thickness?I have to buy 320 meters of it, which comes down to $1666. Been told that the wood is straight, he told me that it's not rough cut or dress timber, but rather it's "gage" wood, which he explained is a mixture of the two. Any ideas what they will mean, quality wise?

I also note that the local beekeeping supply yard is selling unassembled mediums supers for $24; my rough calculations suggests that I can build two for the price of one, by buying the timber and cutting it myself.

I have a little amount of money, so need to carefully consider my options here. I'd like to build enough to capture a good 20-30 swarms this spring, and have plenty of supers to fill them in, and also sell some equipment off a local barter site called gumtree, but I'm not sure how much I actually need.

Offline Caribou

  • House Bee
  • **
  • Posts: 78
Re: Wood buying decision
« Reply #1 on: August 02, 2016, 04:57:02 am »
To my thinking the extra 3MM will only add weight that you will have to lift for the next several years. 

You might be willing to pay the extra  for the wider boards to be able to use the extra width to use elsewhere.  It may be worth it to you also to pay less in total for fewer meters if that will meet your needs. 

Most people that I know want the mediums to have a lighter box to work with.  If that is your reason then going for the deeps is counter productive.  If you can afford the $1200 then you can get more mediums for your money. 

It is your decision, I hope this helps you reason it out.
Good judgement comes from experience.  Experience comes from poor judgement.

Offline little john

  • Super Bee
  • *****
  • Posts: 1537
Re: Wood buying decision
« Reply #2 on: August 02, 2016, 06:26:53 am »
I also note that the local beekeeping supply yard is selling unassembled mediums supers for $24; my rough calculations suggests that I can build two for the price of one, by buying the timber and cutting it myself.

Suggest you buy enough timber (at any price, for this test) and see how long it takes you to build a quality box from scratch.  Then, factor-in your time, electricity, cost of bulk timber purchase, amortisation of equipment and wear and tear of same - and then try to sell that box.  And then consider doing the same thing, over and over again. 

Such a test might prove invaluable to you, as many ideas sound like they will be great propositions, until the time comes to actually put them into practice - ask me how I know this ... !

I'm NOT saying "don't do it" - what I'm saying is "go build one box, and see what that experience tells you."  It's only by conducting such a 'test run' from flat planks to a final sale of product, that you'll have enough information to make an informed judgement.

If you were making bee boxes for your own use (rather than for sale), it can be a much different story.  Use pallet wood, condemned scaffold planks, etc - the bees don't care - I can knock-up a Long Hive (unpainted) in an afternoon for next to nothing - but be under no illusions that such hives are unsaleable.

LJ
A Heretics Guide to Beekeeping - http://heretics-guide.atwebpages.com

Offline Rurification

  • Field Bee
  • ***
  • Posts: 826
  • Gender: Female
    • Rurification
Re: Wood buying decision
« Reply #3 on: August 02, 2016, 08:47:35 am »
Re: whether or not to build deeps since that's the width of your wood

What we do is build the box the width of the wood, then cut it down to medium size on a table saw.   The extra that you cut off is now a shim which can be used a bunch of ways:

bottom:  with a slat rack
bottom: with a medium above if you have to use a few deep frames like from a nuc for a season.
top: as a winter quilt frame
top: stacked with other shims to make a surround for jar feeders.
top: to surround winter sugar bricks or loose sugar/pollen patties.

I have a bunch of shims and right now every single one is in use.   They don't have to be a standard height, as long as they fit on your hive stack.   
Robin Edmundson
www.rurification.com

Beekeeping since 2012

Offline flyboy

  • House Bee
  • **
  • Posts: 446
  • Gender: Male
Re: Wood buying decision
« Reply #4 on: August 02, 2016, 01:52:26 pm »
I'd like to build enough to capture a good 20-30 swarms this spring, and have plenty of supers to fill them in, and also sell some equipment off a local barter site called gumtree, but I'm not sure how much I actually need.
The post was a bit long, so I started to fade out by the last section, but when I noticed it, I had to giggle. Maybe the world is different where you live, but where I live the odds of catching 20 - 30 swarms is way beyond unlikely. I am still waiting for my first. LOL

Would be helpful to include where you live in your preferences so PPL can answer appropriately.
Cheers
Al
First packages - 2 queens and bees May 17 2014 - doing well

Offline Hops Brewster

  • Field Bee
  • ***
  • Posts: 724
  • Gender: Male
Re: Wood buying decision
« Reply #5 on: August 02, 2016, 01:55:28 pm »
The wood doesn't necessarily need to be clear.  Unless you are wanting to build top-quality equipment to sell for a premium price, a few tight knots are not objectionable IMO.  Loose knots are another matter.
Winter is coming.

I can't say I hate the government, but I am proudly distrustful of them.

Offline flyboy

  • House Bee
  • **
  • Posts: 446
  • Gender: Male
Re: Wood buying decision
« Reply #6 on: August 02, 2016, 02:07:17 pm »
Actually I find knots to be a problem as they sometimes will cause a twist or warp of the whole unit. However odds are decent that you will see it before building.
Cheers
Al
First packages - 2 queens and bees May 17 2014 - doing well

Offline rober

  • Field Bee
  • ***
  • Posts: 710
  • Gender: Male
Re: Wood buying decision
« Reply #7 on: August 02, 2016, 03:26:27 pm »
one of the advantages to langstroth hives is that the sizes are standard. extra thickness will add weight & make your boxes non-standard. also i'm not familiar with 'gage cut'. an aussie term perhaps? i'd stick with 3/4"/19mm & have at least one side dressed. S4S lumber would be better yet. tight knots will not cause lumber to warp but it's a good idea to trim your boards in such a way that knots are not located in areas where you have rabbet joints, box joints, or handles. you could build new boxes as mediums & shallow supers & keep your deeps for brood boxes since they are not lifted all that often. i'm lucky enough to have a local lumber yard & a planning mill that do a lot of custom cutting for clients & I have access to their drop offs. I've been biscuit cutting edges & joining narrow boards together to get wide enough stock for deeps & mediums. I also keep an eye on the free listings on craigslist for scrap lumber & plywood.

Offline Beeboy01

  • Field Bee
  • ***
  • Posts: 739
  • Gender: Male
  • Oh Look A Honey Bee !!!
Re: Wood buying decision
« Reply #8 on: August 02, 2016, 04:57:13 pm »
How much room do you have for this venture? You will need storage for the lumber, space for the wood working power equipment and benches,  the cut lumber before assembly, the assembled hive bodies and other parts you are building and then room for all of the equipment you will be using to run 20 or more hives.
  Most lumber will need to have the edges straightened after drying so the lot 216M  of 245x19  lumber might be the best for startup if you are planning to make mediums, you said it's local and if you need more the saw mill is near by. Expect about 5 to 10% of the lumber to be unuseable unless you hand pick it.
 

Offline omnimirage

  • House Bee
  • **
  • Posts: 310
Re: Wood buying decision
« Reply #9 on: August 03, 2016, 12:30:54 am »
To my thinking the extra 3MM will only add weight that you will have to lift for the next several years. 

You might be willing to pay the extra  for the wider boards to be able to use the extra width to use elsewhere.  It may be worth it to you also to pay less in total for fewer meters if that will meet your needs. 

Most people that I know want the mediums to have a lighter box to work with.  If that is your reason then going for the deeps is counter productive.  If you can afford the $1200 then you can get more mediums for your money. 

It is your decision, I hope this helps you reason it out.

Yeah it has. I did want mediums due to weight concerns; my back is in a fragile state, and I'd hate to do harm to it, but I also wanted to adapt to whatever wood I can find. I see though, I won't be wasting the excess cuts, I can use them to build lids/bottoms/whatever.



I also note that the local beekeeping supply yard is selling unassembled mediums supers for $24; my rough calculations suggests that I can build two for the price of one, by buying the timber and cutting it myself.

Suggest you buy enough timber (at any price, for this test) and see how long it takes you to build a quality box from scratch.  Then, factor-in your time, electricity, cost of bulk timber purchase, amortisation of equipment and wear and tear of same - and then try to sell that box.  And then consider doing the same thing, over and over again. 

Such a test might prove invaluable to you, as many ideas sound like they will be great propositions, until the time comes to actually put them into practice - ask me how I know this ... !

I'm NOT saying "don't do it" - what I'm saying is "go build one box, and see what that experience tells you."  It's only by conducting such a 'test run' from flat planks to a final sale of product, that you'll have enough information to make an informed judgement.

If you were making bee boxes for your own use (rather than for sale), it can be a much different story.  Use pallet wood, condemned scaffold planks, etc - the bees don't care - I can knock-up a Long Hive (unpainted) in an afternoon for next to nothing - but be under no illusions that such hives are unsaleable.

LJ

I love how you think! I really should document it all and do some calculations. Last year, I casually kept track of things, but I needed to be more precise and record it. What it reveals could be very beneficial.

I figure I could build nucs to sell with crappy materials. My only competitor sells nucs made out of some recycled realastate boards for an incredibly premium price. Either way, I couldn't really find much at the salvage yards that looked suitable. The only planks I did find, were these $6 per linear meter stuff. I could look around more for pallet wood; I see lots of pallets being thrown away, and I could find use of it, but from what I can gather, it doesn't seem particularly worth it. The extra time, and skill required, deters me, furthermore I'm particularly concerned about damaging the equipment. I'm only able to do this because my father coincidentally owns the equipment, and from what I've gathered, it's easy to break the blades and what not with pallets, since they can have nails punctured in at unpredictable places. Maybe next year when I'm more experienced, I'll look into it; I'd imagine there'd be some way of detecting nails? Or maybe I just have to ad broken blades as an expense, taking that route. I'm happy to build hives from multiple sources, and sell the premium ones for other people; I still need many hives to house the swarms I plan to capture. I don't expect to sell more than dozen hives for the year, but who knows, I do see a demand for them.

I'd like to build enough to capture a good 20-30 swarms this spring, and have plenty of supers to fill them in, and also sell some equipment off a local barter site called gumtree, but I'm not sure how much I actually need.
The post was a bit long, so I started to fade out by the last section, but when I noticed it, I had to giggle. Maybe the world is different where you live, but where I live the odds of catching 20 - 30 swarms is way beyond unlikely. I am still waiting for my first. LOL

Would be helpful to include where you live in your preferences so PPL can answer appropriately.

It might be! I'm not setting up bait hives, but rather, responding to people requesting that they have beehives removed. How I found out about it was by asking a local man, he told me that he captured 20 that year; I captured 10 for my first time. I had 7 people calling me on the first warm day following winter, and many more throughout the months, I couldn't keep up with it.

I have included it. It can be seen from this thread, says I'm from Australia.

one of the advantages to langstroth hives is that the sizes are standard. extra thickness will add weight & make your boxes non-standard. also i'm not familiar with 'gage cut'. an aussie term perhaps? i'd stick with 3/4"/19mm & have at least one side dressed. S4S lumber would be better yet. tight knots will not cause lumber to warp but it's a good idea to trim your boards in such a way that knots are not located in areas where you have rabbet joints, box joints, or handles. you could build new boxes as mediums & shallow supers & keep your deeps for brood boxes since they are not lifted all that often. i'm lucky enough to have a local lumber yard & a planning mill that do a lot of custom cutting for clients & I have access to their drop offs. I've been biscuit cutting edges & joining narrow boards together to get wide enough stock for deeps & mediums. I also keep an eye on the free listings on craigslist for scrap lumber & plywood.


I didn't actually know that 19mm was the standard, thanks for the clarification! I learned that lesson regarding trimming down on knots, last time I tried this. I am interested in having a few shallow supers, as I'd like to be able to produce honey comb; it's rather popular with some people, and is so easy to extract. I figure that's how I'll use the remaining deeps that I have from last year. Sounds like you've developed a good system! I wonder if I should start keeping an eye on these local community sites also.

How much room do you have for this venture? You will need storage for the lumber, space for the wood working power equipment and benches,  the cut lumber before assembly, the assembled hive bodies and other parts you are building and then room for all of the equipment you will be using to run 20 or more hives.
  Most lumber will need to have the edges straightened after drying so the lot 216M  of 245x19  lumber might be the best for startup if you are planning to make mediums, you said it's local and if you need more the saw mill is near by. Expect about 5 to 10% of the lumber to be unuseable unless you hand pick it.
 

Thankfully, I have a small, unused shed that I can use. I'm concerned though because I've learned that it's quite a mess, requires a few days work and I'm running out of time; we're in August! The wood working equipment can go elsewhere, after I've used them. I had wondered whether the 245 would be suitable for deeps. 5-10%? Sure is quite a bit.

Offline Jim134

  • Galactic Bee
  • ******
  • Posts: 3057
  • Gender: Male
    • Franklin County Beekeepers Association
Re: Wood buying decision
« Reply #10 on: August 03, 2016, 05:32:03 am »
Due to wholesalers having large minimum orders, I'm struggling to find a cheap source of timber. I'm considering driving to all the local salvage yards, to see what scrap wood I can find to make supers out of.

I however struggle to identify which woods are suitable to build hives out of. Are there some things to look out for that would determine if some wood is suitable or not? If a wood is "treated", does that mean it's unsuitable? I'm receiving conflicting information on a type of wood that's around locally called "marine plywood"; would this be suitable to build out of? Has anyone have any experience with seeking wood from salvage yards, or building hives out of pallets?

 If you would like to read the markings on a pallets. You could tell what they were preserved with the wood. Here's a chart. Hope this helps you out in your quest for wood. If you read the very end of the chart. Australia and New Zealand can use both Heat and fumigated on the same pallet. It looks like Australia and New Zealand add Methyl Bromide upon arrival .
It appears that the pallets are not restamp for this chemical. All I can say buyer beware.
http://www.1001pallets.com/pallet-safety/

           BEE HAPPY Jim 134 :)
I do hope this help you in making an educated choice about using pallets especially Ones from New Zealand and Australia.


                       BEE HAPPY Jim 134  :smile:
« Last Edit: August 03, 2016, 05:42:28 am by Jim 134 »
"Tell me and I'll forget,show me and I may  remember,involve me and I'll understand"
        Chinese Proverb

"The farmer is the only man in our economy who buys everything at retail, sells everything at wholesale, and pays the freight both ways."
 John F. Kennedy
Franklin County Beekeepers Association MA. http://www.franklinmabeekeepers.org/

Offline omnimirage

  • House Bee
  • **
  • Posts: 310
Re: Wood buying decision
« Reply #11 on: August 03, 2016, 05:54:58 am »
It most certainly did actually! I reviewed that link before I went to the salvage yards. It was one contributing factor to steering away from pallets. Thanks!

Offline Jim134

  • Galactic Bee
  • ******
  • Posts: 3057
  • Gender: Male
    • Franklin County Beekeepers Association
Re: Wood buying decision
« Reply #12 on: August 03, 2016, 06:11:27 am »
  I'm glad you could make an educated Choice based upon the information. This post is also for those who are reading as well.



          BEE HAPPY Jim 134  :smile:
"Tell me and I'll forget,show me and I may  remember,involve me and I'll understand"
        Chinese Proverb

"The farmer is the only man in our economy who buys everything at retail, sells everything at wholesale, and pays the freight both ways."
 John F. Kennedy
Franklin County Beekeepers Association MA. http://www.franklinmabeekeepers.org/

Offline little john

  • Super Bee
  • *****
  • Posts: 1537
Re: Wood buying decision
« Reply #13 on: August 03, 2016, 07:57:43 am »
  I'm glad you could make an educated Choice based upon the information. This post is also for those who are reading as well.

Or you could try some facts instead ....

Quote
Methyl bromide is frequently used for fumigating timber, agricultural products, empty containers, food stuffs, and other agricultural produce. When fumigation is carried out with Methyl Bromide fumigant, there will not be any residual issues as aeration can be carried out easily. It is very effective in controlling insects at all stages; from egg to the adult stage.

As per International Plant Protection conversion Methyl bromide is an approved fumigant which can be used for treating export cargo containing wooden packing materials.

Fumigants only control existing infestations in the cargo they do not provide any residual protection against subsequent re-infestation. Consequently timber treated by fumigation must be packed in container or shipped within 21 days of treatment. During this 21 day period it should be stored safely or cross infestation may occur.

http://www.fumigationservice.com/methyl-bromide.htm
LJ
A Heretics Guide to Beekeeping - http://heretics-guide.atwebpages.com

Offline Jim134

  • Galactic Bee
  • ******
  • Posts: 3057
  • Gender: Male
    • Franklin County Beekeepers Association
Re: Wood buying decision
« Reply #14 on: August 03, 2016, 09:02:04 am »
I wonder why I would use a product that has been ban for inside house use.
(Methyl Bromide)  To be use in my bee hives?
Hope you have a good day.

https://www.nrdc.org/experts/jennifer-sass/methyl-bromide-pesticide-long-banned-indoor-home-uses-suspected-severely


      BEE HAPPY Jim 134 :)
« Last Edit: August 04, 2016, 08:42:43 am by Jim 134 »
"Tell me and I'll forget,show me and I may  remember,involve me and I'll understand"
        Chinese Proverb

"The farmer is the only man in our economy who buys everything at retail, sells everything at wholesale, and pays the freight both ways."
 John F. Kennedy
Franklin County Beekeepers Association MA. http://www.franklinmabeekeepers.org/

Offline flyboy

  • House Bee
  • **
  • Posts: 446
  • Gender: Male
Re: Wood buying decision
« Reply #15 on: August 03, 2016, 02:23:18 pm »
I'd like to build enough to capture a good 20-30 swarms this spring, and have plenty of supers to fill them in, and also sell some equipment off a local barter site called gumtree, but I'm not sure how much I actually need.
The post was a bit long, so I started to fade out by the last section, but when I noticed it, I had to giggle. Maybe the world is different where you live, but where I live the odds of catching 20 - 30 swarms is way beyond unlikely. I am still waiting for my first. LOL

Would be helpful to include where you live in your preferences so PPL can answer appropriately.
It might be! I'm not setting up bait hives, but rather, responding to people requesting that they have beehives removed. How I found out about it was by asking a local man, he told me that he captured 20 that year; I captured 10 for my first time. I had 7 people calling me on the first warm day following winter, and many more throughout the months, I couldn't keep up with it.

I have included it. It can be seen from this thread, says I'm from Australia.
Thanks for the explanation. Great idea. Our bee club has a long list of PPL who capture swarms. I haven't persued it tho I have my name down.
Cheers
Al
First packages - 2 queens and bees May 17 2014 - doing well

Offline Nugget Shooter

  • House Bee
  • **
  • Posts: 134
  • Gender: Male
    • Nugget Shooter
Re: Wood buying decision
« Reply #16 on: August 04, 2016, 09:54:22 am »
Someone mentioned Home Depot cull lumber so I thought I would take a look for some 1x4 and 1x3 to avoid cutting down my 1x12 stock for lids etc. WOW they had very nice stuff with purple cull paint for 75% off and I got some very nice lumber dirt cheap. Worth checking out folks....
Learning to manage without meddling...

Offline rober

  • Field Bee
  • ***
  • Posts: 710
  • Gender: Male
Re: Wood buying decision
« Reply #17 on: August 04, 2016, 09:58:59 am »
lumber dimensions have been shrinking over time. when langstroth decided on his dimensions  1x10's, 1x8's, & 1x6's were actually 10", 8", & 6" wide & were a full 1" thick. they are now 9 1/2", 7 1/2", & 5 1/2" making them just shy of being wide enough for hives. so a 1x12 is needed to make a deep. the drop offs can be used elsewhere but it runs up the costs when buying lumber. I get a lot of 1x8 & 1x6 scraps so I started joining them into wider boards. I use biscuits & tightbond 2 glue or a marine epoxy. I do have the advantages of being a retired carpenter & having a violin & guitar repair shop so I have the space & equipment including lots of clamps.
 I would not use lumber that's been treated chemically in any way ever. yet people do use treated lumber. there's a guy on you tube who dips his hives in copper nitrate. i'd like to see his hives survival rates. the right kind of wood is important as well. not all lumber is suitable for exterior use. there' a guy advertising in the Midwest bragging that he uses cabinet grade poplar for his top bar hives. poplar is an extremely poor choice for exterior use. I've worked on 150 year old houses with cypress windows & trim & the wood is still sound but the new growth cypress does not stand up to the test of time. a good grade of pine, redwood, or fir when properly sealed will hold up well think but I do not think the fir or redwood would be able to take being pried apart with hive tools being so soft & both woods are pricey.

Online BeeMaster2

  • Administrator
  • Universal Bee
  • *******
  • Posts: 13569
  • Gender: Male
Re: Wood buying decision
« Reply #18 on: August 04, 2016, 12:58:09 pm »
"they are now 9 1/2", 7 1/2", & 5 1/2" making them just shy of being wide enough for hives."
Rober,
Not sure about your area but here they are now 9 1/4", 7 1/4", & 5 1/4" and some of them are even less.
Jim
Democracy is 2 wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch. Liberty is a well armed lamb contesting the vote.
Ben Franklin

Offline rober

  • Field Bee
  • ***
  • Posts: 710
  • Gender: Male
Re: Wood buying decision
« Reply #19 on: August 04, 2016, 10:00:09 pm »
 I stand corrected ( showing my age ). that's true of most 1" (3/4" )  lumber these days. however the planing mill I get scrap from & buy 1x4,6,8,10,&12" lumber still carries material measuring 1/2" not 1/4".