That is something you need to decide. Do you want more hives or more honey.
If you want more bees, I recommend trying the split that I use and explained in a thread here several years ago.
Altmiller Splits.
One of the problems with making splits is that it stresses out the bees and when they are stressed, they put out stress pheromones. When this happens the Small Hive Beetles know it and are attracted to this hive. If there is a dearth, the other hives will rob it out.
Per LJ, if you keep the splits on the original queen right hive with a double screen above the bottom brood box , with the Queen in it, the boxes above are protected by the queen right hive.
You can put single screens between the brood boxes above the double screen. When you do this, you want to wait 30 days. One problem is that the queen right will probably swarm in 3 weeks or less.
With the Altmiller Split you move the queen to the bottom hive, add a drawn super (foundation or foundation less will bee good) then add a double screen (window screen) then a brood box with all stages of brood, (cut slots in old comb with eggs and day old larvae), then if you have another brood box, add a single screen with a front entrance, then add your next brood box and a top entrance. Now all three hives smell like they are queen right. After 30 days inspect each box, if they have a mated queen, split the hives into their own boxes.
The double screen stops the retinue bees from being able to pass queen pheromones up through the hive. The bees above the double screen no longer think they have a queen and make emergency queen cells and raise them. The queens have mated and returned to their own hives. All of the entrances have been on the front. It probably would not hurt to turn the middle hive opening around to the back.
This works much better than walk away splits and mating nucs when there are a lot of hives around or nearby.
Jim Altmiller