Bottoms for Nuc Boxes?

[BarryFrantz]

For people using a 4 or 5 frame nuc box, how are you making the bottom? 

i used a 5 frame for the first time this year, one with a traditional style bottom board scaled down for 5 frames.  It worked good, bees did well, but its extra work to make this as opposed to just making the end and side pieces a little longer and permanently fastening a flat board for the bottom.

An advantage of making all nuc bodies as a scaled down deep hive body would make it easier to stack, and just one design.  For people using the fastened bottom, how does that work for you, any advantages beyond easier construction and easier moving of the nuc?

[Sundog]

My stuff is all home-made except for the frames.  I made my nuc box with a fastened bottom and I also have a matching brood size super I can stack and use for a feeder section or add if the bees need room or I want them to build more comb before moving them.

I didn't bother with a bottom board because I don't expect to keep the bees in a nuc for a very long time. It is easy enough to clean after moving the bugs into a ten frame box.

My nuc stuff is a least ten years old and still going strong.  As a good friend of mine keeps reminding me, "Do what works best for you!"

Then again, I'm only a Backyard Beek with two hives that, for the moment, appear to be doing well.

[cao]

I originally made my 5 frame nucs just like mini hive.  Bottom board, box(both medium and deep), inner cover and outer cover.  These are nice if you are planning on stacking more than one high.  Also if you are wanting to get bees from medium to deep or vice versa, there are less frames involved.  I have since made nuc boxes that are plywood boxes with a removable top.  Most of these are just mating nucs that are 3 or 4 frame.  These are nice because it takes less resources to make but you have to be ready to move them into another box soon after the queen starts laying because they can fill up rather quickly. 

[Michael Bush]

If you make the sides deep enough for a beespace at the bottom, a flat board will work.  If you make the sides the same as a standard box, you will have 1/8" at the bottom and all of the bottom bars will get propolized to the floor and pull off when you pry up the frames.  You need a minimum of 1/4" at the bottom and preferably 3/8" to 7/8".  A standard reversible bottom with the deep side up will be 7/8" space at the bottom (1/8" from the box and 3/4" from the bottom board).  I typically don't like bottoms attached on a hive, but I do like them on a nuc box.

[BarryFrantz]

thanks all.

i'll do some of both, attached and non-attached.  i made some swarm boxes with attached bottoms with 10 1/4 inch deep sides, that should work for these also.  Neighbor just put out some scrap plywood that will be good construction material for these!

[iddee]

You can also do solid bottoms with 3/4 inch round hole near the bottom, being sure they have space under the frames, and using these.

https://beezneedz.com/product/5-metal-hive-closure/

[Bill Murray]

Making and having both. ATTACHED and NON attached. Here is what I think.

The non attached have these pros over attached.

1) mos important they are stackable if you get behind.
2) If you want to keep moving resources, again stackable.

Attached

1) your committed to whAT YOU HAVE

Hope this helps
Bill