Beemaster's International Beekeeping Forum
BEEKEEPING LEARNING CENTER => GENERAL BEEKEEPING - MAIN POSTING FORUM. => Topic started by: animal on March 30, 2024, 02:27:12 pm
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The bottom box only has 9 frames in a 10 frame deep box because for some reason, they didn't like one of the frames. They ignored it and built really thick comb on the frames on either side of it and pretty much filled the space inside the offensive frame. They kept sticking the offensive frame to one side or the other, making it difficult to get things apart, and they otherwise weren't building on it, so I
removed it.
The two super-thick frames have comb that looks normal on one side, but the sides facing each other are highly irregular in thickness. They do match each other nearly perfectly, though... where one is thick, the other is thin and the space between them is mostly uniform.
With them starting to get busy, I added a box (shallow, foundationless)
So far, they haven't started building on it except to connect the two wonky frames to the bottom of the frames above them. .. and they're pretty insistent about it .. scrape it off, they build it back. Otherwise, all looks good.
The thick frames are a mix of brood and honey with the really thick parts honey, of course.
Been tempted to cut a few pieces of PVC sheet and lay it on top of the wonky frames to discourage them, but it seems like that might make things worse.
Should I just bite the bullet, pull them, cut out the honey, put the brood parts of the comb back in, and add the 10th frame?
Or do something else?
I have rechecked "bee space" and it seems right. They're only doing it in that one area. They are climbing over the new short frames, just not building on them yet.
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Did you take any pictures?
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When I have bees who are persistent about fat honey comb I do one of two things. 1) I remove a frame, like you did, but the key to that working is you need to the space the frames in the box evenly to keep the situation from getting out of hand. And I really wouldn't do this in the brood nest, because most of the frames won't be drawn fat, since there is little honey down there. 2) I just leave the mostly empty frame next to the fat one in place, and if they connect those two frames with weird comb, I just treat them as one unit. I will draw a pencil line across the width of the two frames as a reminder to me that those two are connected. I do this especially if the offending frames are up against the wall, and the situation isn't likely to get worse. Then when it's convenient, I'll move those two messy frames up to a super so I can harvest it. Since I do crush and strain, it'll then be out of my life. Those weird combs can be a hassle in the brood nest so option 3 would be to just cut and paste it before it gets any worse. As long as it's not creating a huge problem though, I personally find that avenue to be more work than it's worth, for both me and the bees.
Is the super you added full of completely blank frames? That could be the reason for the ladders. The bees ability to move around that space is difficult, since there is nothing to walk on to get where they are trying to go, and bees almost never fly inside a hive, so they are just trying to make it more efficient to get where they are trying to go. Once they get some comb drawn, they should stop rebuilding the ladders (although some colonies are more persistent about such construction than others). Do be aware that a fully empty super like that needs to be monitored closely to make sure they don't decide to ignore the starter strips and just make the entire open space a maze of their own creation! Don't hesitate to cut and paste if such a scenario arrives. One well drawn frame should pretty well determine the fate of the others, so if you have any drawn shallows, I'd put them in the super, but I'm assuming you don't.
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No, sorry .. It's kind of a pain to do pictures right now. I need to set up and sync a new phone to my laptop. Camera phones are toast and the laptop only has a forward facing camera. I'm in-between phones right now because I destroy them pretty regularly.
They did the 2 thick frames last year before I realized what they were doing, but it didn't seem that important at the time; compared to them being weakened by a pesticide kill.I didn't want to disturb them too much while they were weak.
When I first opened them up this year, they had built a little wax from the same frames to the inner cover. I didn't think much of it at the time and scraped it off.
It looks like the additional space between the frames allows them to build the extra thick comb curved over the top bar of the frame. Then they connect it to what's above it.
.. also thought about stacking several PVC strips to fully fill the gap between the frames in the top box and the wonky frames. That way if they glue stuff together, one strip would be glued to the top of the wonky frames and a different one to the frames above .. so they would still seperate easily.
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Is the super you added full of completely blank frames? That could be the reason for the ladders. ...
One well drawn frame should pretty well determine the fate of the others, so if you have any drawn shallows, I'd put them in the super, but I'm assuming you don't.
Yes, the super is completely full of frames. The "starter strip" is integral to the top bar in the form of it being cut to form a downward facing edge (as per a design from Michael Bush's website) They were also coated in beeswax and have bamboo skewers in them for support of comb.
How many frames should I have in the super?
I don't have any drawn shallow frames, but I do have some comb. Should I "start them off" by wiring some comb into a couple of frames?
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How many frames should I have in the super?
When did they draw this fat comb? My early spring flow is rarely strong enough to incite the bees to draw fat honeycomb, so unless your early flow is really on, I doubt it's a problem this time of year. Also they may put brood in this first super depending on how strong they are, so I'd probably just put 10 in.
I don't have any drawn shallow frames, but I do have some comb. Should I "start them off" by wiring some comb into a couple of frames?
You could. Since I've got a store of drawn comb built up (and all my boxes are medium, so everything is interchangeable), I usually checkerboard a new super (drawn, blank, drawn, blank, etc.) if they are in a drawing mood. That really helps to keep the wild comb to a minimum. But you could also just check them regularly, like once a week, and be sure everything is straight and correct anything that isn't. It just depends on what you'd rather do.
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When did they draw this fat comb? ... Also they may put brood in this first super depending on how strong they are, so I'd probably just put 10 in.
Last year, sometimes before the second pesticide kill. I saw it when I was checking on them because of that. I had noticed that they had skipped one frame, but the comb looked normal on the other two for quite awhile. I guess I should have removed the "offensive frame" shoved things together before they got wonky and put the empty frame against the wall.
Brood in the bottom is what I would like to encourage. There's a lot of honey in it right now (comparatively speaking) because that's all they had after giving it to them after they were in a nuc box ... after their numbers were severely reduced by the original hive getting poisoned/sprayed.
Thanks !
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I usually checkerboard a new super (drawn, blank, drawn, blank, etc.) if they are in a drawing mood.
That is a good practice. This also helps the bees draw straight comb when using fishing line, wire, or even skewers for comb support in open frames. The bees will sometime try and avoid incorporating the added wax comb into the support apparatus and try and go around, this can be easily fixed when caught in time.
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When I first started I watched a video put out by Don The Fat Bee Man. Each season Don would take out the wax comb from the frames after extraction, melt it down, reuse by embossing new foundation for the next season. I can see the merit in his program. It eliminates the need for checker boarding, also giving the bees a head start in the next Spring flow, while helping to ensure each frame is drawn out properly and straight., with less chance of wonky comb while giving good support. I don?t remember if he used wire in his frames for embedding the embossed foundation.
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There seems (to me, anyway) that there are good arguments for foundationless frames, but I don't really see the advantage when it comes to honey cells.
Are there people that do foundationless brood boxes in combination with frames with foundation in the supers ?
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As far as your wonky comb in brood box. I would cut the extra wide comb off and place them on the outside two positions in the box with the fat side facing out. You have a little extra room on the edge so you don't have to cut so much off. Then add the tenth frame back into the mix. The sooner you fix it the better.
As far as the super, the bees will only draw comb when they need it. The bees may look like the need the extra space but remember that bees like to be crowded. And they can fit a lot more into a box than you would think.
I use whatever I have (foundation(plastic or wax) or foundationless). And in whatever combination necessary. I have been going more to starter strips, but do still use solid foundation(mostly plastic now). The one thing that I try to avoid is the situation that you are in right not. An empty box sitting on top of the hive. Everything may work out just fine but I try to put at least one frame, either drawn or foundation, in the middle to act as a ladder and a guide for the bees. In your case, keep an eye on them and fix any wrong comb as soon as you see it.
Many people that are running 9 frames in honey supers will use plastic foundation.
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There seems (to me, anyway) that there are good arguments for foundationless frames, but I don't really see the advantage when it comes to honey cells.
Are there people that do foundationless brood boxes in combination with frames with foundation in the supers ?
It doesn't matter so much about foundation-less in the brood chambers. I started out using foundation-less in my deep honey supers as well. Still use it to a certain degree... One advantage along with the other advantages mentioned earlier (wonky comb etc.), of having foundation in the honey supers is the comb will be stronger than freshly drawn white comb without support, which can sometimes fail when using deep supers, especially if there is no reinforcement and sitting in the hot summer sun, as the weight the of the honey can sometimes be to much for fresh, white comb which is not reinforced in deep boxes. Since you are using shallow honey supers you should not experience any problems, even if you do not use skewers, fishing line, or wire for reinforcement..... Shallow foundation-less should be just fine in your honey supers.... Plus you have the advantage of cutting it out for Comb Honey!! Yum!!
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Are there people that do foundationless brood boxes in combination with frames with foundation in the supers ?
I did and it worked fine. Any foundationless frames I had I culled out years ago, I wont be going back to foundationless. Im glad I did foundationless for awhile, a huge plus is watching bees festoon and build comb. Its an excellent learning experience that prepares you for handling comb in cutouts, swarms, and general care of hives. I took the same wood frames and installed plastic foundation and it didnt take long to see the advantages. A lot more brood and less drones made the colonies larger and more productive. Larger colonies, straighter more consistent comb makes for better much easier splits and making nucs. I really had to hunt and pick foundationless frames that didnt touch each other when making up nucs, its a pain. Too many frames became honey and drone comb. I did enjoy foundationless and learned a lot but it just didnt work out for my long term goals.
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Are there people that do foundationless brood boxes in combination with frames with foundation in the supers ?
I do all foundationless mostly because with all mediums and no extractor, I don't need extra support and I don't see the need for the added expense of foundation. When the flow is really on, the bees draw fast with or without it, and once you build up a good supply of drawn comb, you can give them that, which is ultimately the fastest.
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I do all foundationless mostly because with all mediums and no extractor, I don't need extra support and I don't see the need for the added expense of foundation. When the flow is really on, the bees draw fast with or without it, and once you build up a good supply of drawn comb, you can give them that, which is ultimately the fastest.
What do you do, just scratch it open and let it drain?
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Terri, that sounded nasty, and reminded me of a really bad joke :oops: :cheesy:
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What do you do, just scratch it open and let it drain?
No, that would take forever. I do crush and strain. So I cut the comb out of the frame, crush it up with a potato masher to open up all the cells, and then strain the whole mess through a mesh honey strainer. Then I use the wax for making candles, salves, lotion, etc.
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What do you do, just scratch it open and let it drain?
No, that would take forever. I do crush and strain. So I cut the comb out of the frame, crush it up with a potato masher to open up all the cells, and then strain the whole mess through a mesh honey strainer. Then I use the wax for making candles, salves, lotion, etc.
Ok, so they make new comb and start over. Do you have that process written up in thread around here? I'd like to lean about it. Do you save any of it for comb honey and just gnaw on a hunk now and then? Kind a different way to crush and strain.
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Do you save any of it for comb honey and just gnaw on a hunk now and then? Kind a different way to crush and strain.
:cheesy: Haha, yes, all the time! You can actually eat the beeswax too, so if it's really nice thin-drawn comb honey, there isn't even straining involved. :grin:
Ok, so they make new comb and start over. Do you have that process written up in thread around here? I'd like to lean about it.
I don't think so, but honestly I was thinking about making an instructional post about it for the School of Traditional Skills whenever I did my first round this year, because the instructor on there didn't cover it, and most people don't want to spend the money on a extractor up front. So I'll post that on here too. I usually do my first harvest sometime in June.
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A unique way to extract honey without an extractor as taught to me by Don The Fat-bee-man..
https://beemaster.com/forum/index.php?topic=52958.msg475974#msg475974
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Do you have that process written up in thread around here? I'd like to lean about it.
Terri,
If there's a local club near you they usually have loaner extractors. If not, medium frame comb honey foundation is only $1.50 a sheet and you can cut them in half easily with a razor knife. Half sheets in medium frames draw pretty fast and save you the headache of cross comb. If you are using plastic foundation you can scrape off the comb into a bucket and put the frames back in the hive for the bees to clean up. Michael Bush's web page has simple crush and strain instructions the way I have seen it done.
https://www.bushfarms.com/beesharvest.htm
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I do all foundationless mostly because with all mediums and no extractor, I don't need extra support and I don't see the need for the added expense of foundation. When the flow is really on, the bees draw fast with or without it, and once you build up a good supply of drawn comb, you can give them that, which is ultimately the fastest.
Excellent points with crush and strain.
On the other hand and in a different scenario;
If bees ever use older honey comb for brood Comb it will become harder to uncap for those of us who uncap by hand without heat, by those of us who do extract, even by the method that I posted earlier in reply 19, due to the harder cocoon lined comb. In my experience if honey is once again stored in those same combs after brood this uncapping problem will be exposed.
Of course if you keep your medium honey combs separated, never allowing the honey combs to become brood combs. You might avoid this problem?
Phillip
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I rotate out very old very dark comb anyway because I'm concerned about sublethal levels of pesticides having built up in it, but I will also try to give the bees the older comb early in the season and save the light comb for supers. The old comb is difficult to crush and strain too because it's so stiff. Plus, I feel like the honey really takes on that slumgummy flavor of dark comb, and I'm not partial to that.
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I rotate out very old very dark comb anyway because I'm concerned about sublethal levels of pesticides having built up in it, but I will also try to give the bees the older comb early in the season and save the light comb for supers. The old comb is difficult to crush and strain too because it's so stiff. Plus, I feel like the honey really takes on that slumgummy flavor of dark comb, and I'm not partial to that.
Though I cant prove it; My opinion is that you are 'right again' Reagan, especially about that "slumgummy flavor"...
Phillip
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In blind taste tests people could not tell honey from dark comb from honey in new comb.
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Almost like a placebo affect. What we visually see may somehow impact on our perception of flavour. I have found nectar that is gathered slowly over a long period of time and held in black comb over winter, tends to be darker and stronger in flavour. A few weeks ago I harvested a bit of honey under those conditions. This to me is liquid gold as customers are craving natural honey with these characteristics. Obviously the nectar source could also impact on what we see and taste.
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It's funny about the blind taste tests to me, and most people preferring the new comb. I've never cared for honey in the comb. The waxiness isn't pleasant to me.
The only time I ever tasted dark comb was after getting it from a cut-out. It was mostly uncapped honey but had a fair amount of bee bread in it. It hardly seemed waxy at all to me and was much more tolerable. I attributed it to the bee bread and whatever substances mixed with the wax that made it dark, breaking up the waxiness.
I'm not squeamish about such things though, and also tried some stray larvae. They were not objectionable either. To be honest, I'm not that wild about honey, far prefer real maple syrup, and don't like ribbon cane syrup at all. Except for the pastiness, I think the bee bread is the best tasting thing in the hive.
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I do think part of it is that dark honey doesn't taste the same so your expectation is that it won't taste the same. Studies, though, show that honey from old brood comb is better for you and especially better for treating wounds. Also darker honey (not necessarily comb) is better for you than lighter honey.
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When going foundationless, do you place anything in the frames to help guide the bees? Do they not bond everything together with comb?
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https://bushfarms.com/beesfoundationless.htm
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Jim mentioned something about popsicle sticks but I wasn't getting it. Do you place them into the foundation grooves?
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You can put any strip of wood, including those fat popscicle sticks (sold as Jumbo Craft Sticks) in the groove of a grooved top bar. You can break out the cleat on a "wedge" top bar and rotate it 90 degrees and nail it back in. You can cut a bevel on the top bar. You can add a bevel to the top bar. Any of these work. https://bushfarms.com/beesfoundationless.htm
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You can put any strip of wood, including those fat popscicle sticks (sold as Jumbo Craft Sticks) in the groove of a grooved top bar. You can break out the cleat on a "wedge" top bar and rotate it 90 degrees and nail it back in. You can cut a bevel on the top bar. You can add a bevel to the top bar. Any of these work. https://bushfarms.com/beesfoundationless.htm
I did read that but I had a hard time comprehending a lot of it. Sometimes I just need a visual demonstration. I'll experiment with some popsicle sticks and see how it goes. My hive(s) will probably look like a patchwork quilt of experimentation.
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You just need to end up with an edges in the center of the top bar. Anything that accomplishes that will work. I like the guide to be wood because I don't every have to replace it (as opposed to a wax strip). I like to NOT put wax on them because the bees don't attached the comb as well if I do. Plus it's unnecessary work.
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When going foundationless, do you place anything in the frames to help guide the bees?
I just buy wedge top bars and nail the wedge in sideways.
https://www.honeybeesuite.com/how-to-make-starter-strips/wedge-turned-sideways/
In blind taste tests people could not tell honey from dark comb from honey in new comb.
I don't know about "people" :wink: , but I could definitely taste this flavor in a blind taste test. I have often wondered though if you were extracting from dark comb if you wouldn't taste it. Whereas with crush and strain, I end up with far more little microscopic bits of wax in the honey, which imparts more of the wax's flavor to the end product.
It's funny about the blind taste tests to me, and most people preferring the new comb. I've never cared for honey in the comb. The waxiness isn't pleasant to me.
The only time I ever tasted dark comb was after getting it from a cut-out. It was mostly uncapped honey but had a fair amount of bee bread in it. It hardly seemed waxy at all to me and was much more tolerable. I attributed it to the bee bread and whatever substances mixed with the wax that made it dark, breaking up the waxiness.
I'm not squeamish about such things though, and also tried some stray larvae. They were not objectionable either. To be honest, I'm not that wild about honey, far prefer real maple syrup, and don't like ribbon cane syrup at all. Except for the pastiness, I think the bee bread is the best tasting thing in the hive.
I have two questions. Firstly, are you basing your opinion of honey on real honey from a beekeeper? Because anything off a store shelf is barely honey in my opinion. There are so many flavors and varieties of honey that I can't imagine not being able to find one that you love. Secondly, have you ever had really high quality comb honey? When we talk about eating comb honey, we aren't really talking about what you are describing here. Don't get me wrong, I think it's cool that you just took a hunk of comb out of the hive and ate it regardless of what was in it, :cool: since that's certainly a legitimate culinary option, but high quality comb honey is going to be extremely thin fast-drawn white wax that will basically dissolve in your mouth. I feel like if your impression of comb honey is "waxy", then either you are very sensitive to the wax or the comb honey you had wasn't the best.
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Terri here is the video where I learned to do what I described in reply # 19. You may not like videos but you will find this one WELL worth your time.
https://youtu.be/uuO_BdmvJsg?si=LNQD0Vws4ArV-CGj
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>I have often wondered though if you were extracting from dark comb if you wouldn't taste it. Whereas with crush and strain, I end up with far more little microscopic bits of wax in the honey, which imparts more of the wax's flavor to the end product.
Crush and strain might be the reason. You do get more bits of comb in it.
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Terri here is the video where I learned to do what I described in reply # 19. You may not like videos but you will find this one WELL worth your time.
https://youtu.be/uuO_BdmvJsg?si=LNQD0Vws4ArV-CGj
Definitely worth the watch and watchable at 1.25x. Thanks
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Your very welcome Terri...
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Crush and strain might be the reason. You do get more bits of comb in it.
You also get pollen bread and any larvae that might bee in the comb.
Jim Altmiller
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You also get pollen bread and any larvae that might bee in the comb.
Jim Altmiller
Won't a queen excluder prevent the latter?
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Firstly, are you basing your opinion of honey on real honey from a beekeeper? Because anything off a store shelf is barely honey in my opinion. There are so many flavors and varieties of honey that I can't imagine not being able to find one that you love. Secondly, have you ever had really high quality comb honey? When we talk about eating comb honey, we aren't really talking about what you are describing here. ... high quality comb honey is going to be extremely thin fast-drawn white wax that will basically dissolve in your mouth. I feel like if your impression of comb honey is "waxy", then either you are very sensitive to the wax or the comb honey you had wasn't the best.
First Q, before having bees, I bought honey from a family run plumbing store ... (cardboard box full of jars, and a price on the box. Drop money in the box, pull out a jar of honey, mostly an honor system thing. The guy who had the bees was a friend of the plumbing store family... he would go by, pick up the money and put more jars in the box) It tasted noticeably better than WalMart honey I don't know exactly how to describe the difference except a fuller flavor but still light. I have no idea of it's grading or if you would call it quality. It usually was a little cloudy, not much, but not crystal clear either.
Second Q, I'm probably sensitive to the wax, as you put it. I tried some of the white wax honeycomb (and the gold stuff too) from the same cut-out and didn't care for it. It's not the flavor that I didn't care for, nor the texture either really. It was more about the feeling that my mouth was coated with wax afterward. To me, the wax itself was flavorless, so it just tasted like honey. Kinda "what's the point of adding wax to it?". Come to think about it, there are several store-bought chocolates that seem full of wax too, but that's to keep it from melting. And .. It's not that I dislike honey, it just can't stand alone. (If I'm in the mood, I could probably eat my weight in baklava.) But, if I have a piece of toast and am craving something sweet, I'm much more likely to grab the maple syrup than the honey... even though I'm cheap and the price of the real stuff has gotten astronomical. I would grab the honey before the fake maple stuff, though. Honey is good in tea sometimes, but I usually prefer it unsweetened. One of the few gripes I have about southern food is why so many in the south like to drink tea flavored syrup. Anyway, I'm probably just strange and like the slumgummy flavor?
Truth be told, I've never bought comb honey except when the kids asked for it. When I was a kid, one grandmother loved the stuff and always had it around ... I didn't care for it then. I don't remember her buying it so I don't know where she got it. She had several things delivered from local farmer-ish people ... eggs, milk, veggies, I remember ... not honey, but it's possible, maybe even likely. Crayfish, oysters and shrimp too, but they were caught rather than farmed.
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You also get pollen bread and any larvae that might bee in the comb.
Jim Altmiller
Won't a queen excluder prevent the latter?
Yes, as will harvesting from above a more or less full super. That's how I keep larvae (and really pollen too, honestly) out of my honey, since I don't use QXes. A queen usually won't cross a honey barrier to lay eggs. As long as I leave a box for them and only take honey from the box above it, I've never had brood in my honey, and I really don't have pollen up there either, since the bees usually like to store that closer to the brood, where it's needed.
First Q, before having bees, I bought honey from a family run plumbing store ... (cardboard box full of jars, and a price on the box. Drop money in the box, pull out a jar of honey, mostly an honor system thing. The guy who had the bees was a friend of the plumbing store family... he would go by, pick up the money and put more jars in the box) It tasted noticeably better than WalMart honey I don't know exactly how to describe the difference except a fuller flavor but still light. I have no idea of it's grading or if you would call it quality. It usually was a little cloudy, not much, but not crystal clear either.
That qualifies as real to me. Grading honey as quality based on clarity (something frequently done at county fairs and the like) is not a practice I agree with. Different honeys display different clarities naturally, and for honey that isn't naturally crystal clear, I'd prefer it not be excessively filtered to achieve clarity.
Anyway, I'm probably just strange and like the slumgummy flavor?
You're not alone in that actually. I've heard of people who really like that strong almost burnt flavor in their honey. I'm just not one of them. :grin: I like strong honeys, and even the slumgum honey I could eat, but it's not my preference, and I don't usually sell that honey because I'm worried customers might be off-put by it.
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You're not alone in that actually. I've heard of people who really like that strong almost burnt flavor in their honey. I'm just not one of them. :grin: I like strong honeys, and even the slumgum honey I could eat, but it's not my preference, and I don't usually sell that honey because I'm worried customers might be off-put by it.
On this we are birds of a feather.
Phillip
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When I was a kid, one way honey was sold in the store was in a round plastic squeeze bottle. I am thinking it was Sue Bee Company who use to put a small square chuck of comb honey in this container, then filling the container the rest of the way up with honey. The clean looking white comb honey looked like it was floating in the clear golden surrounding honey. You could also buy it this way in glass jars. That was my first experience with comb honey.
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Freshly extracted honey is often cloudy. Tiny air bubbles, bits of bee, wax and pollen particles often contribute to the slight discolouration. After a few weeks, heavies settle to the bottom and the lighter particles float to the top and honey clarity improves. The small layer on top of a bucket of honey is what I skim off before bottling. That?s the honey that we eat. We live in a modern world where everything we touch or consume has to be triple vacuum wrapped, crystal clear, signed with a note from your mother to say it is pure and then given a date by which we have to eat it. We are becoming very precious. It?s good to hear people talking about the simple things in life especially related to beekeeping.
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Usually when I see cloudy honey it is because there was pollen bread in the honey, due to cold use and strain. If you use an extractor, it he pollen bread stays in the comb because it is too thick to come out of the cell. If you are doing crush and strain and are concerned about cloudiness, bee sure to cut out all of the cells with any pollen in them. As I mentioned before, larvae cause the same problem.
Jim Altmiller
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>When I was a kid, one way honey was sold in the store was in a round plastic squeeze bottle. I am thinking it was Sue Bee Company who use to put a small square chuck of comb honey in this container, then filling the container the rest of the way up with honey.
I've never seen comb in a squeeze bottle. I've seen that done in glass jars and it's called chunk honey. It makes a very pretty and interesting product.
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Other than clarity of the honey, are there any advantages or disadvantages of having pollen in it?
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Honey with pollen in it is better for your health. It also crystallizes quickly.
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Depending on the pollen collected, it can have an aftertaste that I don?t particularly enjoy. I usually notice it when I do cutouts. No frames to extract. 😊 All crush and strain.
Jim Altmiller
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>When I was a kid, one way honey was sold in the store was in a round plastic squeeze bottle. I am thinking it was Sue Bee Company who use to put a small square chuck of comb honey in this container, then filling the container the rest of the way up with honey.
I've never seen comb in a squeeze bottle. I've seen that done in glass jars and it's called chunk honey. It makes a very pretty and interesting product.
Its been so long that my memory is a bit foggy. I do remember in glass jars as well, but the small piece in the plastic round is what stands out to me in my memory. The bottle also had a stamped on honey comb on the outside of the container, and the mouth of the plastic round was as wide as the bottle in circumference. (again if memory serves me correctly.)
Wait; It just came back to me! The brand was Fisher's Honey! :grin:
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Depending on the pollen collected, it can have an aftertaste that I don?t particularly enjoy. I usually notice it when I do cutouts. No frames to extract. 😊 All crush and strain.
Jim Altmiller
I like it golden light in color, and clear on a hot buttermilk biscuit with melted butter. lol Mmmmm good!