Natural cell frames from last year for honey supers?

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It's fun watching how my bees are drawing comb from the starter strips - all over the place in size, but in one of the hives, you can clearly see that they drew larger drone comb on the edge (and are raising drones there) and in the center, smaller (haven't measured, but they are regressing) cells, now capped with brood.

Let's see, to quote someone I really respect, "Everything works if you let it..."

Linda T

Thats right also "work with nature not agin her" Charles Martin Simmon

Those of you using SC, Can you use foundationless small cell frames in your honey supers and do extracted honey?  or do you have to do crush and strain?

The cell size shouldn't make any difference in how you do your honey harvest. 

I always (listen to me with my 1 year of experience :roll:  :roll:) use crush and strain, but I think you can use any kind of harvest you'd like with any cell size.  It is more complicated to do crush and strain with wired in foundation because of the wires, but otherwise you can harvest any way you like with any cell size, as I understand it.

Now if the bees make a mess with the foundationless frames like one of my hives did, I imagine crush and strain is the only way to go because an extractor depends on centrifugal force throwing the honey out of straight well lined up cells.  But since I think crush and strain honey tastes the best in the world, why wouldn't you want that?

Linda T

My conscern is the centrifigal force on honey filled frames w/o foundation would result in a blowout. Additionally, i dont want to do crush and strain as i have free access to an extractor and it takes 10lbs honey to make 1lb wax. Seems like a lot of work for bees to do that all of the time. I am doing one box of cut-comb, but the rest of the supers have waxed plastic foundation from a manufacturer in S.Dakota(name escapes me). Just wondering is all.....


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