Pollen and Other Specialty Bee Products (Re: Today I Made)

[Michael Bush]

People eat the pollen.  It's most palatable (and perishable) in it's "just harvested" form (still moist).  But keeps the best if dried.  It has a lot of nutritional value, which you can find online.  Protein, B vitamins etc.

Propolis is used by people in many forms.  Some make it into a tincture.  Some just chew it like gum.  Some freeze it and, while frozen, pulverize it into a powder and put it in capsules.  The properties are that it is antimicrobial, so the tincture is used as mouthwash and gargle.  The capsules are used as an immune booster.

Another byproduct is royal jelly.

I usually do the beeswax in small pieces (usually a cute mold of some kind).  People often buy it to wax thread.  And of course there are candles, soap and lip balm &c.

[Lesgold]

Thanks Michael. I?ve never tried to harvest or sell propolis. It would be a simple task to collect it but I?m not sure if there is a market for it here. I suppose there is one way to find out. I?m sure that it is a valuable by product of beekeeping. I designed and built a pollen trap about 10 years ago but wasn?t sure what to do with it when I collected it. In the end, I gave it back to the bees. Would love to learn more about these products. Looks like Google is going to get a workout.

[Ben Framed]

Les the following was taken for a post in the Topic: https://beemaster.com/forum/index.php?topic=55038.msg501245#msg501245


Bee Pollen Facts

Nutritional Benefits of Pollen
A supply of of bee pollen is like holding a whole health food store in the palm of your hand. With the addition of roughage and water, the human body can survive on honeybee pollen alone. This is because it is the only food which contains, in perfect balance, all 22 known essential nutritional elements which humans require to achieve and maintain optimum vitality.

Bee Pollen Nutritional Analysis
(The following table provides an analysis of the average bee pollen content.)
VITAMINS              MINERALS
1. Provitamin A              17. Calcium
2. B1 Thiamine             18   Phosphorous
3. B2 Riboflavin              19. Potassium
4. Niacin                      20. Sulphur
5. B6 Pyridoxine              21. Sodium
6. Pantothenic Acid      22. Chlorine
7. Biotin                      23. Magnesium
8.B12 (cyanocobalamin 24. Iron
9. Folic Acid              25. Manganese
10. Choline              26. Copper
11. Inositol              27. Iodine
12. Vitamin C              28. Zinc
13. Vitamin D              29. Silicon
14. Vitamin E              30. Molybdenum
15. Vitamin K              31. Boron
16. Rutin                      32. Titaniun
 
ENZYMES/CO-ENZYMES   PROTEIN/AMINO ACIDS
33. Amylase              51. Isoleucine
34. Diastase              52. Leucine
35. Saccharase              53. Lysine
36. Pectase              54. Methionine
37. Phosphatase      55. Phenylalanine
38. Catalase              56. Threonine
39. Disphorase              57. Tryptophan
40. Cozymase              58. Valine
41. Cytochrome systems 59. Histidine
42. 24 Ixudiredyctases.  60. Arginine
43. 21 Transferases       61. Cystine
44. 33 Hydrolases       62. Tyrosine
45. 11 Lyases               63. Alanine
46. 5 Isomerases       64. Asparatic Acid
47. Pepsin                       65. Glutamic Acid
48. Trypsin               66.Hydroxyproline
49. Lactic dehydrogenase   67.Proline
50. Succinic dehydrogenase 68. Serine
69. Nucleic acids       83. Hypoxalthine
70. Flavonoids               84. Nuclein
71. Phenolic acids       85. Amines
72. Tarpenes               86. Lecithin
73. Nucleosides               87. Xanthophylls
74. Auxins                       88. Crocetin
75. Fructose               89. Zeaxanthin
76. Glucose               90. Lycopene
77. Brassins               91. Hexodecanal
78. Gibberellins               92. Monoglycerides
79. Kinins                       93. Diglycerides
80. Vernine               94. Triglycerides
81. Guanine               95. Pentosans
82. Xanthine               96. Alpha-aminobutyric acid

[Lesgold]

I?d better get some and add it to my breakfast cereal lol.

[Ben Framed]

I?d better get some and add it to my breakfast cereal lol.

There is an older gentleman who lives close to me who is a youtuber. Tim Durham "The Walls Beeman".
A few years ago before I had a pollen trap I went and visited Tim for the purpose of buying some pollen. He had a Little Red Wagon, the type kids are pulled in,.  Filled to the rim with one pound bags of pollen which would soon be added to the freezer for storage, assuring it would be fresh upon upcoming sales. I had never seen so much pollen..

Tim has been keeping bees since a young age. He has very interesting stories to tell including the time he removed a colony of bees from a sixties TV stars home. Aunt Bee was her television character name on the popular American Television series; "The Andy Griffith Show..."  He said she carried herself exactly as she did on the TV show, including bringing him a tray with a nice lunch on it.... He was living in North Carolina at the time..  Tim is quiet a character himself! lol

[The15thMember]

Nutritional Benefits of Pollen
A supply of of bee pollen is like holding a whole health food store in the palm of your hand. With the addition of roughage and water, the human body can survive on honeybee pollen alone. This is because it is the only food which contains, in perfect balance, all 22 known essential nutritional elements which humans require to achieve and maintain optimum vitality.

Bee Pollen Nutritional Analysis
(The following table provides an analysis of the average bee pollen content.)

"Average" is really the key word here.  Not all plants have all these nutrients in their pollen, but if you have a great variety of pollen from many species, you are likely to get all these different constituents.  This means that the more colorful the pollen the better.  Unfortunately, uninformed consumers usually only like orange and yellow pollen, based on what I see in my local retailers. 

I?d better get some and add it to my breakfast cereal lol.

That's what I do, put it in my oatmeal or on my yogurt.  I also put it on salads.  It's got a mild flowery flavor, although it's a little bitter straight up. 

[Ben Framed]

"The15thMember"[/b][/color]
"Average" is really the key word here.  Not all plants have all these nutrients in their pollen, but if you have a great variety of pollen from many species, you are likely to get all these different constituents.  This means that the more colorful the pollen the better.  Unfortunately, uninformed consumers usually only like orange and yellow pollen, based on what I see in my local retailers.

What you say makes sense Reagan. In most situations the bees will collect an 'average crop of pollern. A mixture of pollen from a variety of plants (different colors in the mix) as you described. Now, if the hives are placed on a 'specific crop' with no other source of pollen available for long distances, we might get a one color or one source or variety of pollen. I confess, I had not thought of your good point, to even fathom coming to the sensible conclusion that you have reached.
Therefore I do not know which plants may be 'limited' in not having the above ingredients on the chart.. 

Did you find a source which explains this further, and list which specific plants might lack the all around nutrients which are listed?

Thanks for your input Reagan,

Phillip

[Ben Framed]

Les Im not trying to hijack your good topic by transforming it into a pollen subject . If you will allow this conversation to continue and if enough folks chime in, perhaps Reagan or I will split these pollen post away to form a new topic if you would prefer.

Thanks,

Phillip

[Lesgold]

It?s all good Phillip. I have never really looked into pollen so any comments are good from my perspective. Keep the conversation going please. I have a question in relation to drying pollen. How do you dry and then store the pollen?

[NigelP]

Several ways of drying, but don't dry too much. I think the required mositure level for srorage at room temp is 8% water. Dehumidifyer and fan, one of those food dehydrators, sun dry etc. I'm told it's trial and error, weight at start and weigh at end to estimate lost water.
Hard bit is getting fan set up to pour pollen through the airflow to remove all the lighter bee bits,  legs and stuff that end up in the trapped pollen.  There are commercial machiunes availablke to do this, but incredibly expensive for what is basically a niche product.

[Michael Bush]

My point is, you don't have to sell something for it to get someone to stop and talk about it.  And that may sell some honey.

[Lesgold]

Good point Michael. Even to have some on display would add to the conversation.

[Ben Framed]

The local beekeepers in my area don't dry it. They simply zip lock bag it and put it in the freezer, keeping it as fresh and preserved as the day it was taken from the colony.  The bag is first labeled, placed on a scale, then filled to the desired weight, usually a pound here, then frozen for keeping. It is my understanding the health conscious folks are the main customers and prefer to obtain it as 'close' to fresh and natural as possible. The instructions for the consumer are to keep the bag refrigerated for freshness.

Phillip

[max2]

Nigel - would you have a list of the nutritional value of " lighter bee bits,  legs and stuff" and probably "bees knees" ?
They maybe of even greater value then the pollen
( not wanting to move the discussion away from pollen!)

[Ben Framed]

author=max2 link=topic=56161.msg520750#msg520750 date=1694689966]
Nigel - would you have a list of the nutritional value of " lighter bee bits,  legs and stuff" and probably "bees knees" ?
They maybe of even greater value then the pollen
( not wanting to move the discussion away from pollen!)

Hi Max, It's nice to see your have a humorous side.   

With a 'proper' pollen collector, (such derbies as you describe), are held to an 'absolute' minimum. The pollen collector has a cover with does not allow loose derbies from the hive to fall into the area of collection, leaving 'beautiful, (in my opinion), pollen for harversing. Sorry to disappoint you if you were counting on the added nutritional properties of "lighter bee bits,  legs and stuff" and probably "bees knees" in an amount to be noticed.
'If' you would 'prefer' those nutrients, you might have to resort to simply eating your bees instead.   
After all, I have heard that insects are on the suggested menu by some extremist fanatical groups in the world...  'Believe it or not!!!'
Thanks for the smile! 

[The15thMember]

I have a question in relation to drying pollen. How do you dry and then store the pollen?

I just use my tabletop dehydrator on its lowest setting and then store in glass jars.  As Phillip mentioned, if it's not dried it must be stored in the fridge or freezer because it has the tendency to mold. 

[max2]

After all, I have heard that insects are on the suggested menu by some extremist fanatical groups in the world...  'Believe it or not!!!'

In Asia, insects are eaten as part of a high protein diat.
You will see sellers at every market

[Ben Framed]

In Asia, insects are eaten as part of a high protein diat.
You will see sellers at every market

Yes I suppose different cultures in different parts of the World have have different eating habits and diets as handed down through tradition. For instance, Pork is a no no in some countries... Bull Frogs are considered a delicacy in my area of America. Even so I would not expect others not accustomed to enjoy. Just as I would not enjoy monkey brains as eaten in some other countries.
Insects for me, no thanks, but Bull Frogs prefer them lol. Are bugs a part of the diet in your country Max? I have not heard as much if so..

Now pollen: I don't know if folks from any country are opposed to nutritionally rich pollen?  What is your opinion of pollen Max? Are you a fan?

Phillip

[Ben Framed]

Les when you 'made' your pollen trap did you make a video of it?

[Lesgold]

No I didn?t. I actually threw it out about 12 months ago when I decided to clean up the workshop. I thought it would?ve a piece of equipment that I wouldn?t use so out it went. Regretting that decision now. I?m really interested in the whole pollen and propolis discussion. I think they deserve their own threads, especially when people want to look back or search particular topics. There is a bunch of questions I want to ask as I think Michael is right about presenting both items at markets as educational displays. Building a reasonable knowledge base would be a good start.

[Lesgold]

Thanks for moving the topic Reagan. Now we can focus on pollen as a topic. When you dry your pollen in the dehydrator, what is the time frame involved? I would expect that it would dry reasonably quickly. Is the nutritional value of the pollen reduced or changed in any way during the drying process?

[Ben Framed]

"Lesgold"
There is a bunch of questions I want to ask as I think Michael is right about presenting both items at markets as educational displays. Building a reasonable knowledge base would be a good start.
Modify message

Totally agreed..  Tim sells even more bee related items. You might check his website out for more good ideas... If you are interested I will PM his website to you;    (if I can find it..)  lol


And thank you Reagan for splitting the topic. Good Job!!

Phillip

[Michael Bush]

If you're going to sell pollen for human consumption one of the issues is cleaning it.  You can make a cleaner with a piece of air duct and a fan.  Or you can buy a top entrance trap and keep you colony with a top entrance all the time (otherwise they don't work well).  With a top trap the pollen is already very clean.  Then there is the drying issue.  I prefer to keep it in the freezer and have it moist, but you can dehydrate it in a dehydrator or an open container in the freezeer.

[The15thMember]

Now we can focus on pollen as a topic. When you dry your pollen in the dehydrator, what is the time frame involved? I would expect that it would dry reasonably quickly.

It does.  I didn't do any pollen collecting this year (too many mean bees in the apiary over the spring and early summer), but if I remember from the previous year I think it was about half a day in the dehydrator. 

Is the nutritional value of the pollen reduced or changed in any way during the drying process?

I would doubt it alters it much.  Honestly, there is not a lot of literature out there about the digestibility of pollen to humans.  It would probably be most nutritionally accessible to us if we were eating the bee bread out of the cells, because the bees have fermented that pollen.  But until someone invents an easy way to harvest bee bread out of comb, it's not really feasible.

If you're going to sell pollen for human consumption one of the issues is cleaning it.  You can make a cleaner with a piece of air duct and a fan.  Or you can buy a top entrance trap and keep you colony with a top entrance all the time (otherwise they don't work well).  With a top trap the pollen is already very clean.

I have a bottom mount trap, and you do get little bits of hive debris in the pollen sometimes.  Since I'm not selling the pollen, I just hand pick out the obvious bits.  It's important to empty a pollen trap very frequently, preferably daily, to keep the moist pollen laying in the trap from molding or drawing other insects to it, and that frequent harvesting helps to keep the debris down as well. 
 

[Michael Bush]

In a humid climate it is necessary to empty it daily.  Dee & Ed Lusby used to run them on all of their hives in the Sonoran Desert and emptied them about once a month.  The problem Dee had was the ants would steal the pollen.  If you are making a trap you need a window screen on the bottom of the drawer or it will mold even faster.  It is much nicer to eat when it's still moist, but I would assume the nutrition is about the same.  I'm not sure how drying it affects the bacteria and yeast which are the probiotics in the pollen

[Lesgold]

Thanks guys. I?ve been doing a bit of research and looking at trap designs. In my neck of the woods, the only traps that are readily available are the yellow plastic ones that hang out in front of the hive. They were inexpensive so I decided to buy a couple and see how they work. The one that I built many years ago was based on that design. The Sundance traps look interesting but they don?t appear to be readily available here in Australia. Michael, I like the idea of trapping pollen at the top of a hive. I might experiment with a top entrance on one of my hives and see how well it works before I go to the effort of making a top mount trap. With all of the spaces in and through the trap, are there issues with beetles?

[The15thMember]

The Sundance traps look interesting but they don?t appear to be readily available here in Australia.

You could probably build one.  I think I've seen copycat plans around for Sundance style traps. 

With all of the spaces in and through the trap, are there issues with beetles?

I've never noticed an increase in beetle trouble with the trap on.  You'd only have it on a very strong hive anyway, and the strong hives in my area don't struggle with beetles. 

[Lesgold]

The pollen traps arrived a short time ago. I might set it up on one of the stronger hives and give it a short run. I will be playing with a top Mount design in the next few days. I do like the stainless mesh cone bee escapes used in the Sundance traps. I?ll have a play in the workshop to see what I can come up with. The rest of a pollen trap is a fairly simple build.  Getting correct mesh sizes and distances will be the major issues. It may take a few builds to get one that works well.

[Ben Framed]

Les I ordered 3 that looked like that directly from China when I first began keeping bees. I think they sent me the type for Asian Bees because my bees never could get through the provided openings. I have heard Asian Bees are smaller than European Bees? I am not saying yours in not the proper size as I have seen the same type offered by companies here in America... I should have bought from a local American Company..

Iddee, (incase you read this post), do they sell this type pollen trap at your local bee supplier; Beez Needs?

Phillip

[Lesgold]

Thanks for that Phillip. You may be right. The openings are quite small. It will be interesting to see if they can squeeze through. I?ll pop one on a hive tomorrow and give a report. I?m planning on making one anyway. At least this one will give me a few ideas as to the size of holes that I need.

[Ben Framed]

Les local Beekeeping supply companies here, also sell a trap that resembles the pictured that I am sure are correct for European Bees. It may well be that your trap is correct for European Bees? I ordered directly from China and I think that was the problem for me. I am anxious to hear your results..

Phillip








.

[Lesgold]

I tried measuring the size of the opening on the trap. It was difficult to get a ruler into a reasonable position but from what I can see, the openings are a little larger than I thought. The trapezium shape was about 5mm on the shorter side and 6mm on the longer side. In theory the bees should be able to squeeze through. I put a trap onto one of the stronger hives and used a block of wood to wedge the door open. This new obstruction obviously confused the bees and they landed all around the trap looking for a way to get in. It was quite interesting watching them trying to sort out what was going on. Some landed on top of the trap, many walked around the edge of the trap attempting to find gaps close to the bottom board and a few landed directly on the open landing area and walked in. I think it will take a few days for the bees to sort it out. Their radar and/ or memory in relation to where they need to land is amazing. I won?t close the screen until the bees know where to go.

[Ben Framed]

It Looks good sitting in place Les. As long as the intended access holes are the correct size, they will sort it out.

[Lesgold]

I closed the door on the trap this morning. A cold front came through and as a result, most of the girls are tucked up in bed under the blankets. This meant the few bees who were flying could be watched as they moved in and out of the hives. They were able to move through the opening in both directions with a bit of effort which is what I wanted to see.

[Ben Framed]

Good deal.....

[Lesgold]

The plastic pollen trap has been sitting on the hive for a few days now. I haven?t tried to trap much pollen as the hive is still building slowly and there is not a lot coming in. I often go and sit next to the hive to see how the bees are reacting to this new obstruction and try to follow individual bees as they sort their way in through this maze. One point of interest is the bee escape on the side of the trap. It is interesting how bees were generally not interested in using this hole as an entry point. They would climb up the external walls of the tube, have a look and then turn around and go back down. Bees were constantly exiting from the hole in a steady stream. Occasionally there would be the odd one sneak in but in general this tube was ignored. I can see why escape tubes are a common part of pollen traps.

[Lesgold]

Hi Folks,

When I purchased a couple of pollen traps a few weeks ago, I also added two propolis traps to the order just to give them a try. They were placed on hives earlier today with a couple of spacers to keep the lids open slightly. I have one question for the experts. I understand why the lid is propped open but I?m wondering if the type of bottom board impacts  in relation to how quickly the propolis is added to the mat. Would a screened or slotted BB force the bees to react more quickly due to the extra ventilation within the hive or am I just making silly assumptions?

[Michael Bush]

I think propolis is more in response to light, but a SBB let's in more light...

[Ben Framed]

You both may be correct about light and propolis. In my area it does not seem to matter whether light or dark; (whether the top is down and the bottom is solid). Propolis is a reality that is produced in abundance to the point of annoyance. That is why I ask the question of the value of propolis here at beemaster a few years ago. If propolis is of significant value, and there is a market for it, I for one would like some inside information about that subject for those who might be in the know. Such would be greatly appreciated..

Thanks,
Phillip

[Michael Bush]

Well, they cover everything in propolis.  But they pile it up to stop light.

[Ben Framed]

Yes they will concentrate its use in an areas of the hive that they find is 'beneficial' and 'feasible' to them.. On the other hand, and to be fair, I have seen a feral hive living in a tree with an open crack in the tree trunk at least three feet long and 6 to 8 inches wide with no propolis visible in effort to cover the comb which is plainly visible 'in that crack'. Also in fairness, there most likely was a propolis built up 'in' the confines of hollow of the tree out of sight.
As I said earlier you two may be right about light and propolis, and I suspect you are, when its use is "feasible" in their management', such in the case of my langstroth hives for example with little to seal in 'regard to shutting out light'..  Now frames in the same hives, a totally different matter (how and why do they produce so much)??.. lol.
An Exception in my case is hives that I have purposely set up a significant crack between the tops and their top boxes through Winter Months. (Another subject entirely)...

An overabundance of propolis production has been the case for me since my first hive. (No matter the breed of bee; feral or from ordered queens from two states away). I contribute this to 'perhaps' location...
Since propolis has been added to this topic, I am inquiring in relation to the overly abundant production of propolis which I am seeking information:  Is propolis of 'significant' value, and is there a fair market for it, I for one would like some inside information about such, for those who might be in the know. Such would be greatly appreciated..


Phillip

[Lesgold]

Something as simple as propolis generates so many questions. We all see it in our hives and possibly just take it for granted. I can understand bees using it for cutting out light by sealing up cracks. Do they do this to control ventilation or to keep potential pests out?  I can also understand its importance in creating a clean, sterile environment. Why do some hives contain lots of propolis whereas others are relatively free of the substance? Quite a few years ago I built a few boxes from cypress pine. The smell of the timber was quite strong. Over a period of time the bees put a coating of propolis over the entire interior surface of the box.

[Ben Framed]

"I can understand bees using it for cutting out light by sealing up cracks. Do they do this to control ventilation or to keep potential pests out?"

We actually had quite the debate on the subject, concerning (ventilation & varroa) a few years ago here at Beemaster.. I do not recall that propolis was brought into that subject. Incidentally, I posted the link to that debatable subject/topic just a day or so ago on 'yet' another topic lol ...

[Michael Bush]

The word "propolis" means "before the city" or "in front of the city".  The most noticeable place for propolis before we bred it out of them, was to reduce the entrance.  But they also coat everything with propolis to control microbes.  They also reinforce every corner of every cell with propolis worked into the wax.  They also tear down the foundations of every comb and rebuild them with half propolis and half wax for strength.  Propolis is used all through the colony.

[Ben Framed]

I once watched a cutout video where bees had propilized a squirrel within the confines of their colony, which was located in the soffit area of a home. The squirrel was completely encapsulated in propolis and looked mommyfied.

[The15thMember]

My bees make a good amount of propolis year round, but once we get our first chilly night, I notice they really get to work filling every crack in the hive.  It's more than once I've had a colony with a screened inner cover that once the weather turns cold starts to work filling in the entire screen with propolis (which I don't make them do, I just give them a solid cover, since that is what they want).   I also have a homemade migratory cover which is a bit warped, and only once it got down to the high 50's F overnight did those bees fully caulk up the air spaces under that cover.  So for my bees at least, temperature seems to play a role in the degree of the propolizing, but not its presence or absence.

[Lesgold]

An interesting observation Reagan. We had a cold night and I was wondering about my decision to put the propolis mat on the hive with cool weather coming. The girls would have worked a little harder to keep brood warm. It will be interesting to see how they react to the temperature drop. I?m hoping that they start filling the mat quickly to get rid of either the light or temperature drop issue.

[Michael Bush]

If you just use a window screen for a quilt (no frame) on top of the top bars you can collect a lot of propolis.  Just roll it up, put a rubber band on it and put it in the freezer.  To harvest, put it in a garbage bag and unroll it.  The propolis will break into pieces and fall off.

[Lesgold]

That?s a good idea Michael. So simple. Do you still leave the lid partially open? Do you use metal or plastic flyscreen?