Beemaster's International Beekeeping Forum
BEEKEEPING LEARNING CENTER => EQUIPMENT USAGE, EXPERIMENTATION, HIVE PLANS, CONSTRUCTION TIPS AND TOOLS => Topic started by: Beth Kirkley on June 11, 2004, 11:32:41 pm
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For the last few days I’ve been building a double hive stand, with screened bottom boards. There are several reasons I did this, and why I designed it just the way I did.
1) hive #2 is rather large, and tends to hang outside in the afternoons, so I wanted the ventilation
2) the ventilation for both the hives will help them in brood rearing
3) the screen will also help with varroa mite control
4) I built it so the hives will be turned 90 degrees, like a DE hive, so I can easily access the frames standing at the rear of the hive
5) I also wanted the hives raised some so I can inspect without having to bend over as much
6) I have handles on each side to hang up to 5 frames while I’m doing an inspection
So, that all explained....... here’s the process
I first cut the pieces for the main frame. I used two 8'x6"x1" boards - cutting them into:
A - (1) 5 foot piece
B - (4) 27 inch pieces, with 45 degree cuts in the ends & an 1/8th inch groove down each inside edge (1/2 inch below the top edge) (picture shown below)
C - (2) 6 inch pieces
These are the only pieces of the design that would work for anyone. The other pieces (that I cut later) would have to be modified according to your own hive. I build my hives, and made a small mistake in it, but it worked out where I can have 11 frames in each box that fit nicely.
(http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid121/pf1274ce13fcdc982b4dfe28d45a9e420/f84f65fc.jpg)
click for larger image (http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid121/p706ac41fade2fd3ebda6730b9cddc4f0/f84f67f2.jpg)
I then assembled the main frame. I placed Part A as the back-board, Parts B for where the hive itself sits, and Parts C on the ends for the handles.
(http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid121/p03f11e9517da08c857225f9e4a3a80fa/f84f668d.jpg)
click for larger image (http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid121/pa1b171b4ef81bed11ae8e3ed4cfb892c/f84f68bc.jpg)
Grooves: 1/8th inch deep, ½ inch from the top, on insides of frame (This is where I will slide in the 1/8th inch plywood for the landing board, and it will also help me in proper positioning of the screened frames.)
(http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid121/pc44468c7748ced4f48e15cb5ef14dd70/f84f66bc.jpg)
click for larger image (http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid121/pc00233a43e451bb25d29790fb0c0459d/f84f68fa.jpg)
Here is a picture of it with the landing boards before installing the screened bottoms.
(http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid121/p3bb22d4bf4cb550d31be47baabb4b9c4/f84f662a.jpg)
click for larger image (http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid121/p3153237e5962525e6b22b728a7d0b541/f84f682c.jpg)
I then used one 10'x6"x2" board for the screen frames and legs. I cut the board first down the full length at 1 ½ inches, and that piece I used for the screen frames. The 10'x4"x2" was used for the 5 legs and the center bracer board. I installed the center leg & bracer boards, and cut the frames for the screen, making sure the screen frames were slightly smaller than needed. I knew a little bit of space would be needed on the edges for wrapping the screen.
(http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid121/p529f140f0f77d920d3fef909e6fe96c5/f84f66f2.jpg)
click for larger image (http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid121/p4cb0486a0659d1b9ae5c2272d09cf8b0/f84f6950.jpg)
After covering the screen frames with 1/8th inch screen, I got them installed, using the groove I’d cut to ensure proper placement. Then I put on the legs, and painted it.
(http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid121/p7fdf2ed769c90efa87b801ef47e4c843/f84f65c3.jpg)
click for larger image (http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid121/p2a3e0f48341c65d4ac3ac6baaf17c719/f84f67a2.jpg)
I also placed a few strips of wood on the underside so that in the winter I can slide a board under the screen to cut down the draft coming threw the screened bottom. There’s even enough space to place foam insulation under the screen if I want.
(http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid121/p3ea357992cfa197f9fb6a55094c6d8ab/f84f6585.jpg)
click for larger image (http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid121/pbdc4459122bb6ed44998562d6217299f/f84f674a.jpg)
And lastly, here is the finished & painted hive stand.
(http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid121/pb553dc6a7ddb2c9939082815745516cf/f84f6722.jpg)
click for larger image (http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid121/p5d832a8037adcc48b7947e4419ea2e00/f84f699f.jpg)
I hope I covered all of it. :)
Beth
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Nice Job!
Great Pics
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Very nice job? Did you happen to design a way to put a tray in and close up the botom for winter? Do you even need to close it where ou are? I am in Michigan and probably need to keep mine closed for winter.
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Thanks Roger & Lechwe -
And Lechwe, yes I put a couple strips of scrap wood on the underside as runners to slip a board in for winter closing. I don't know if it's needed, but I'd imagine so. I hear that there are people here in Georgia that leave the screened bottom board on all winter, but usually the screened bottom is on a hive stand that's RIGHT on the ground with no air flow like I have. It will get cold here, but rarely snows. Generally only gets a few degrees below freezing a few nights of the winter. But still, with a completely open bottom like that, I'm sure the girls would got too cold. So during the winter I'll be able to put a piece of insulative foam board under the screen, and slip a piece of wood under that to close it all up tight.
Beth
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Exellent Job Beth:
I could really use one of these three wide :)
I think I would add flashing around the feet to stop ground contact - I'm all top soil here and anything wood and heavy would rot on me quickly. what a great looking project - fine job!