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Les I get what your looking for. I have the same issue as you. I dont know positively because I dont live in these states but a lot of the northern ones get a natural broodbreak every year. I can walk out at any given time in Dec, here and find multiple capped and BAS in all stages in any hive I pick. So I dont really understand the big debate. The debate should be on timing I think.I played with this a little bit and never could get the timing rite. The interesting thing was I lost a good percentage of colonies when done in the fall/winter. That might be due to unexpected cold snap, dont remember, but I shelved it. the ones I tried in late winter had better survival but never got a good spring build up. again shelved. Mr bush and I were talking, and the thinking was in the spring right before the flow. My thinking is already peaking varroa maybe to late. Dont know, havnt tried it yet.
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Les you might find the following topic interesting. We had a three page discussion on brood break a few years ago, with some points made by Van From Arkansas, TheHoneyPump and other heavy hitters.


https://beemaster.com/forum/index.php?topic=53778.msg486167#msg486167



Quote
Phillip, I will have a look at that thread a little later. Thanks for that.

You are welcome Les, I highly recommend taking a >close look< from start to finish. (From the first post to the last)
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FARMING & COUNTRY LIFE / Re: Not all pollen is the same
« Last post by Ben Framed on Today at 07:56:07 am »
Max,
Can you give a brief description of what is in your article? I get this when I click on the link.

SWI swissinfo.ch

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4
DOWN UNDER BEEKEEPING / Re: News from Down Under
« Last post by max2 on Today at 02:29:40 am »
I entered some honey, wax, comb honey, nuts and some veg in the Maleny Show.
We got 4 x First, 2 x second and 6 x third.
I was pleased to get a First for my Comb Honey.

The same bloke got quite a few firsts for his honey.
I'm never quite sure how they judge it here at the Ag Show in Maleny.
I just take a jar and put it aside when I do some bottling.
I'm using Flint Jars ( which I believe are made from recycled glass) and they don't show up the honey as well as "new" jars
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GREETINGS/TELL US ABOUT YOURSELF / Re: Halation
« Last post by Occam on Today at 12:55:08 am »
Welcome, good luck on your adventure homesteading!
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GREETINGS/TELL US ABOUT YOURSELF / Re: Central New York
« Last post by Occam on Today at 12:53:22 am »
Welcome, glad you could join us!
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Brilliant. I like the simple design and operation. Very much along the lines of what I had in my head. Keep us posted on how it works. If it goes well might be something you could sell to fellow beeks that don't make their own equipment
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With the lid closed, another hole was drilled to lock the lid closed. This pin would a slip pin that could be removed as required. An old frame was used to see how well the cage could be located. Some of the comb was cutout with a sharp knife and then the top wire was snipped to allow the cage to be inserted. If this system works effectively, the top wire won?t be inserted into future brood frames. As we won?t be allowed to move brood frames into honey supers when varroa hits, this won?t be an issue.
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1mm attachment holes were then drilled through the cage sides and tacks were used to attach the cage sides to the base. The top bar of the frame was held in place and a 1mm hole was drilled through both the frame sides and the top. This would form a hinge for the top of the cage. A chamfer was then sanded on the top to allow it to pivot open.
A couple of 1mm diameter pins were then made from galvanised wire. The hinged lid was then attached with one of the wires. This allowed the lid to pivot open for the insertion or removal of the queen.

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anything