Author Topic: Coates 5-Frame Nuc (Read 111274 times)

BlueBee · « **Reply #40 on:** January 29, 2011, 09:40:14 am »

Drew, Robo great design.

Robo,

You’ve probably mentioned on some post what software you are using for your layout drawings, but it didn’t pop up when I attempted a search. I like it! Can you tell us what software you’re using? Yeah, I’ve been bitten by the kerf space on a few of my designs over the years :-D

Robo · « **Reply #41 on:** January 30, 2011, 09:23:21 pm »

If your looking for a layout program, I'd take a look at Sheet Layout. It looks pretty promising for the price.

Bee Happy · « **Reply #42 on:** January 31, 2011, 12:25:14 am »

I grabbed the robo download in PDF. I overkilled the first nuc I built. And since I was interested in going for moderate growth and selling a couple/few nucs a year, a quick 'mass production' model would be a lot of help.

RAWMAWTAW · « **Reply #43 on:** March 06, 2011, 11:51:30 pm »

I like your design for the 5-frame Nuc. Im not a very good wood worker but your design I can manage. My bee hive consits of medium boxes and frames. I want to keep all supplies within same dimension. Do you have a dimension for your 5-frame nuc that will work with my medium frames? I think I would just need to reduce the height of box but not knowing measurements for reducing. Don't want to make mistakes. Your plans are very easy to follow. Thank you for posting

Humanbeeing · « **Reply #44 on:** March 07, 2011, 12:36:34 am »

Thank you for doing the cut layout on this plan Robo. This is a great design. I'm fixin to build a pile of them tomorrow.

Grieth · « **Reply #45 on:** April 17, 2011, 09:37:30 am »

Thanks for the plans. The cutting layout is great - I halved it to get two nucs out of half a sheet - magic!

I took on board the idea of a larger opening to fit a feeder. I also added some countersunk screen at the rear to allow better air flow.
As I want to use it for swam collection I added the font mesh gate, and extended the lid lips to allow room to dill a 6mm hole part way (font and back) to take a snug fitting dowel - now I don't need to worry about bees escaping in the station wagon!

Sorry the photos are not great, but they give the idea.

bullship · « **Reply #46 on:** May 30, 2011, 11:17:23 am »

I built 4 out of a 4x8 sheet last week. Now I am more of a wood butcher than a carpenter butI got along very easily . The nucs look like nucs and everything! One small problem that I have, I got three ply plywood not the 4 ply. When I got done the covers are warped bad already even with the wife painting as I put them together.I am going to cut some strips and fasten on top to hold the tops flat. Next bunch I'll buy 4 ply!!
bullship:

VolunteerK9 · « **Reply #47 on:** June 02, 2011, 03:48:28 pm »

Quote from: bullship on May 30, 2011, 11:17:23 am

One small problem that I have, I got three ply plywood not the 4 ply. When I got done the covers are warped bad already even with the wife painting as I put them together.I am going to cut some strips and fasten on top to hold the tops flat.
bullship:

Just put a concrete block or a couple of bricks on it-it will flatten back out. No problemo.

adamant · « **Reply #48 on:** October 15, 2011, 12:58:12 pm »

Quote from: D Coates on March 18, 2010, 11:45:40 am

I also leave the bottom off of some to stack on other nucs to make 10 frame nucs. I use thin 1 1/4 inch nails, titebond III glue, and I paint them to ensure I get many years of service out of them.

http://s196.photobucket.com/albums/aa190/Drew454/Nuc%20plans/

Plans and cut list for the Coates 5-Frame Nuc can be found here -> http://robo.bushkillfarms.com/beekeeping/downloads/

leave the bottom off? when u make them u dont nail the bottom on?

VolunteerK9 · « **Reply #49 on:** October 15, 2011, 01:41:48 pm »

Quote from: adamant on October 15, 2011, 12:58:12 pm

Quote from: D Coates on March 18, 2010, 11:45:40 am
I also leave the bottom off of some to stack on other nucs to make 10 frame nucs. I use thin 1 1/4 inch nails, titebond III glue, and I paint them to ensure I get many years of service out of them.

http://s196.photobucket.com/albums/aa190/Drew454/Nuc%20plans/

Plans and cut list for the Coates 5-Frame Nuc can be found here -> http://robo.bushkillfarms.com/beekeeping/downloads/
leave the bottom off? when u make them u dont nail the bottom on?

He left the bottom off of some in order to stack them (turn a 5 frame nuc into a 5x5 nuc or a nuc with a super)

adamant · « **Reply #50 on:** October 16, 2011, 12:22:36 am »

Quote from: D Coates on March 18, 2010, 11:45:40 am

Here are plans and measurements for nucs I make. I think they are simple and you can make 4 five-frame nucs out of one piece of 15/32 plywood that sells for $10 at Lowes or Home Depot. I use them for swarm traps, queen breeding nucs, and I overwinter nucs with Fall queens in them. I also leave the bottom off of some to stack on other nucs to make 10 frame nucs. I use thin 1 1/4 inch nails, titebond III glue, and I paint them to ensure I get many years of service out of them.

http://s196.photobucket.com/albums/aa190/Drew454/Nuc%20plans/

Plans and cut list for the Coates 5-Frame Nuc can be found here -> http://robo.bushkillfarms.com/beekeeping/downloads/

i am having problems cutting out the enterence! any ideas?

rdy-b · « **Reply #51 on:** October 16, 2011, 01:50:03 am »

when i made mine i drilled a hole-just drill it at the bottom edge so they can cary out the trash -RDY-B

Robo · « **Reply #52 on:** October 16, 2011, 08:22:20 am »

Quote from: adamant on October 16, 2011, 12:22:36 am

i am having problems cutting out the enterence! any ideas?

What kind of problems? I just stand them on edge, set the blade height to the height of the entrance and run them through. If not using a dado blade, it will take more passes, but depending on how many you are doing, it is still quicker to do more passes than swap blades.

Or just do as rdy-b suggests and drill the entrances. I use 7/8" holes for entrances on my poly nucs.

adamant · « **Reply #53 on:** October 16, 2011, 09:00:00 am »

thank you..

adamant · « **Reply #54 on:** October 22, 2011, 08:07:27 pm »

when i got the ply wood cut i could not find a up bowed piece. it seems that my lids are bowed now. what a good way to UN bow the lids? put weight on them? i like to do this before i paint them if it would make a difference..

ShaneJ · « **Reply #55 on:** March 16, 2012, 09:00:28 pm »

Hi Guys, I have a bunch of ply ready to start making some of these but I am a little confused. Are these plans to suit full deep frames? It doesn't appear they are. Or am I more dumb at this construction stuff than I thought?

jmblakeney · « **Reply #56 on:** March 16, 2012, 10:13:08 pm »

Quote from: ShaneJ on March 16, 2012, 09:00:28 pm

Are these plans to suit full deep frames? It doesn't appear they are.

Yeah, these are for deep frames. I didn't realized it untill I had already made a set of them.

James

ShaneJ · « **Reply #57 on:** March 17, 2012, 02:08:00 am »

Oh yes. I was reading the measurements wrong. When are you guys going to start using metric? :-P

ShaneJ · « **Reply #58 on:** March 17, 2012, 06:03:51 am »

Would anyone care to double check my measurements? I have converted the funny numbers to metric and accounted for 12mm ply.

The sheet ply is 2400x1200x12mm

I didn't put the top lips on the layout as I would bother cutting anything that fiddly :-\

Full Size

Thanks

G3farms · « **Reply #59 on:** March 17, 2012, 10:43:58 am »

did you allow for the saw kerf? (thickness of the blade)