Beemaster's International Beekeeping Forum
BEEKEEPING LEARNING CENTER => DOWN UNDER BEEKEEPING => Topic started by: Oak on June 16, 2013, 06:31:20 am
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Hi all,
Last year some bees moved into an old possum box in my backyard.
Following some advice from a poultry forum, I have constructed a smaller entrance to keep them warmer over winter. I was a bit worried about suffocating them so I made the entrance 20mm wide and drilled some holes into it as well. I plan to move the bees into a hive in spring. I have assembled 20 "full size" frames with starter strips glued in. I will convert some of these into "cut-out frames" with the string and rubber band method I have seen on this site.
I would love to post some pictures but your forum appears to have very strict rules and penalties on new members posting pictures with links. Maybe I will be able to post some pics after I have made the required number of posts.
Regards
Oak
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Welcome to the forum, you will find a lot of good information on this form and lot of berks willing to help. May I suggest that you complete your location within your profile as this helps in getting area specific information when needed.
Until you are able to post pics your self "you can you can email the link(s) to photos@beemaster.com (please no photos, just links to hosted photos), and a moderator will gladly post the link for you"
I hope everything works out okay for you.
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Thanks for the advice kanga.
Cheers
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Bayswater is an eastern suburb of Melbourne Kanga. Good luck with them Oak.
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Welcome to the forum. I am sure you will enjoy transferring them from the possum box to a brand new hive - I have done one of these last spring and they are doing very well in their new box.
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Thanks Geoff and ozebee,
To be honest, I only added my location after kanga suggested it.
Cheers
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Welcome to the forum mate!
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Thanks squidink
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Hi all,
I have a question. I plan on building two hives each with a full size broodbox and a full size super.
How many nuc hives is it advisable to have?
Any advice is appreciated.
Oak
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Hi all,
I have another question. Is it possible to move a hive 10 meters to a more accessible location?
I have heard that hive must be moved a minimum of 300 meters otherwise the bees will return to the old site.
Also,
When is the best time to do a cut out?
Thanks
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Hi oak i guess u can move them only a few feet at the time, its a long process.
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Thanks bunyip,
In that case I will set up my first hive where the the bees already are. Sorry, I have a lot of pictures:
(http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k516/Red2501/da0e279e-1537-4a41-99d9-6fe44e78509c_zpsd0d33f47.jpg?t=1369710200)
My feral bees the day they moved in.
(http://sphotos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/247199_10151456459574622_690678823_n.jpg)
Are the bees of any particular type?
(http://sphotos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/548860_10151456465619622_1994281139_n.jpg)
Here are some pics of my hive building progress. I had enough discarded signage to make four metal roofs.
(http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k516/Red2501/BILD2758_zpsf1dd3caa.jpg?t=1377161799)
A finished roof:
(http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k516/Red2501/BILD2759_zps3ad4bc7c.jpg?t=1377075907)
So I now have four double 10 frame hives and a nuc. Below are three hives before painting.
(http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k516/Red2501/BILD2746_zpsbce02664.jpg?t=1373450243)
The single hives are now placed around the backyard with lemongrass oil as bait on the off chance that I catch another swarm.
Regards
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There looking good just need a coat of paint have fun painting lol :)
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Thanks bunyip,
The painting is now done.
20 frames down, 65 to go.
(http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k516/Red2501/P9160001_zps07d4fbee.jpg?t=1378372479)
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Looking Great Oak, enjoy the experience. My hive just swarmed and a whole bunch of my bees flew off so I hope someone like you grabs them. Don't forget to get your beetle traps, they will find you! (assuming they're in Victoria, which I think they are)
Good luck
Jason.
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Cheers Jason,
I will let you know how two layers of gutter guard and a kitty litter tray full of cooking oil works as a hive beetle trap.
(http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k516/Red2501/P9170005_zps120e3053.jpg?t=1378448605)
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More hive building progress. I have assembled all my frames. Here is a picture of my workshop, using brads and a staple gun made things much quicker.
(http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k516/Red2501/P9260013_zps182b8100.jpg?t=1379296852)
Now I am turning my empty frames:
(http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k516/Red2501/P9260021_zpse739ff52.jpg?t=1379210692)
into frames with starter strips glued in:
(http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k516/Red2501/P9260015_zps0ee0a80c.jpg?t=1379296913)
as well as a few dummy boards, which may help keep new combs straight:
(http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k516/Red2501/P9260018_zps5a0b5411.jpg?t=1379297031)
Here is a 3mm sheet of plywood, before it became 64 starter strips:
(http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k516/Red2501/P9220012_zps6d52310a.jpg?t=1379296777)
I hear that hives are swarming in my area which I assume means that now is a good time to cut out my possum box. I am ready, but do I need to wait for a hot day before I crack open the hive?
Right now it is a bit chilly. Would a sunny day of 22 degrees C be better for the bees?
Oak
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Hi oak your frames looking good well done, to your question a warm sunny day would be better next Monday looking good if u need help let me now i'm not to far from you.
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Hi bunyip,
I think I will be OK on my own but thankyou very much for your offer of help it is very generous.
Cheers
Oak
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Hey Oak
Accept the help, you will learn more in a few hours thet you ever thought possible, and will increase your chance of success by a huge amount
Cheers
Col
in Glen Waverley
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Thanks Col,
These might be my famous last words, but I really just want to do it myself. It's nothing personal, I am this way with all my projects. I know it is probably very foolish but I am set in my ways.
I will let you know how it goes.
Regards
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Hi all,
Well I had to wait a while for suitable weather but I got there in the end:
(http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k516/Red2501/PA070004_zps256862a5.jpg?t=1381122222)
The finished result:
(http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k516/Red2501/PA070008_zps2a2b642e.jpg?t=1381036048)
I got enough comb to fill 14 frames. I have frozen some honeycomb so I can feed it back to the hive over the next few weeks.
There were some queen cells in the hive which I decided to leave in place in case the original queen was harmed.
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The hive swarmed yesterday. Don't know where the swarm went as the swarm ball was in the tops of the trees one minute but had roared off by the time I had retrieved my gear from the house.
Still plenty of bees using the hive today so I guess I will wait and see. The bees have been pretty aggressive since the cut out. One even chased me into the house whacking my hair all the way. Actually they have been more aggressive the last few weeks which I think may have been because the hive had built it's numbers up.
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The ugliest smoker ever:
(http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k516/Red2501/PA160001_zps94f2ebe9.jpg)
Works well. The big ugly handle on the top means I don't have to touch the biscuit tin part. I will put a guard on it for safety.
(http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k516/Red2501/PA160010_zps2c2394f2.jpg)
The foot bellows push out a lot of smoke but my conventional bellows are better because they can be operated with one hand instead of a hand and a foot. However, the large biscuit tin is easier to light.
(http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k516/Red2501/PA160009_zpsfc3d3d81.jpg)
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There is scout bee activity at 3 of my 4 bait hives. The bees seem to walk in the top entrance then out the bottom before wandering back in again. I hope a swarm moves into one of them.
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The scout bees now seem to be visiting only two of my bait hives and are focusing on the one below.
(http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k516/Red2501/PA180019_zps8c10efde.jpg)
We have had terrible wind the last few days and hail yesterday, I hope the swarm is OK wherever it is.
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Well that didn't take long. I thought I would be updating the scout bees progress over the next few days.
I was lucky I was home today. It sounds crazy but I thought I heard the roar of the swarm move over my house so I checked the most active bait hive and there they were:
(http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k516/Red2501/PA180002_zps0bc21366.jpg)
Now I have two hives both from wild swarms.
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Well done!
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Thanks prestonpaul
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Looks good! Well done :-) :)
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Cheers Bee therapy
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these pics are things of beauty, and i like the home made smoker too.
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Thanks jelder,
The pics help me keep track of things.
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Nice pics, Oak. Looks like you are have good luck with your traps. And big swarms also. Good luck to you and your bees.
Joe
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Thanks Joe
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Hi all,
I inspected the hives today.
The captured swarm is doing great. I only opened it to remove the container of lemongrass oil. From what I saw they were drawing comb from the starter strips quite well but everything looked a bit delicate so I left well enough alone.
The cut out hive is three weeks old now. I wanted to check for American foul brood. Long story short no symptoms of that disease. The thing was, I had a hard time finding any brood.
The brood I could find was already capped. No eggs were seen and no capped honey. The hive swarmed three weeks ago so I am waiting for a replacement queen to emerge.
I will move a frame of brood from my captured hive to my cut out hive. Seems a pity to disturb such a young hive but the cutout hive is starting to worry me.
A frame from the cutout broodbox
(http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k516/Red2501/PA270003_zps8d6a419b.jpg)
A bit of wonky comb that needs cutting
(http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k516/Red2501/PA270002_zps191c9f4f.jpg)
Comb from the super
(http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k516/Red2501/PA270001_zps1c31c36d.jpg)
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Edited the above post because after sleeping on it I decided to move a frame of brood so I could stop worrying about it.
The combs in the captured hive were more advanced than I thought. Ten days after the swarm moved into this hive this is a foundationless frame.
(http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k516/Red2501/PA280003_zps82dfe697.jpg)
There are eggs here if you look hard enough
(http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k516/Red2501/PA280001_zpsee64752e.jpg)
Now I can stop worrying about whether the cut out hive is queenless or not.
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Hi all,
Just checked the cutout hive before the cup. I found a solid patch of grubs and eggs on one frame so I guess I finally have a laying queen in there. Glad I didn't buy one. The super had plenty of wonky comb that I cut and rubber banded back in place. If I do a cutout again I will use starter strips in the cutout frames as they often attach comb to a grooved top bar in an irregular way.
The frames in the colonised bait hive are nice and straight and nearly completely drawn. It is looking really strong with heaps of brood and I will probably put a super on it in a week or two.
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The cutout hive below is throwing out its rubberbands. The abundance of drones in this hive was worrying me but not now that it appears to have a queen. The colonised bait hive has no drones.
(http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k516/Red2501/PA280006_zps5efa265d.jpg)
I built a couple more nucs and set them up as bait hives. Is nuc pronounced "Nuke" or "Nook"?
I thought it was short for "Nucleus hive"?
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Oak,
The picture that shows nothing but white comb has eggs placed in the center bottom of the cell (middle of the picture.
Jim
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Hi everyone,
I was a bit concerned that the colonised bait hive was nearly full on the last inspection so I added it's first super today. I tried to open up the broodnest by taking three frames of brood out and putting them in the top super.
I noticed that one frame had two cells that looked like the beginnings of queen cups. I will check on them in a few days and if they are queen cells I will put them in a nuc. Hopefully that will avoid swarming. Open to any advice.
Regards
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It's normal to have a few queen cups or practice cells in a hive. No need to worry unles there is somthing in them.
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Thanks prestonpaul,
There were large white larvae in them. I will check them in a couple of days to be sure.
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Really nice work on the hives and frames. I am impressed. Luck seems to be on your side. Excellent use of foundation-less frames as well. I think the only thing I might do differently is to re queen the aggressive hive.. IF, they remain aggressive. I have to understand if they get a bit testy when I tear their house apart to inspect, but wont put up with bees bouncing off my head or following me to the house. The real bugger is when they start pinging you when you approach the hive, then you KNOW you have to do something..
If your bees are indeed feral, you may find they are capable of dealing with varoa and hive beetles on their own.. in which case I wouldnt requeen with anything commercial. If your other hive is strong and non aggressive it might be the best bet to use one of your Nuc's to make a queen or two from the non aggressive hive.. I LOVE my feral bees. Mite checks on the feral hives are always lower than the commercial Carnys and Italians I have... It is my intention to replace those commercial queens with feral during the main flow next spring..
Your doing an amazing job... I very much enjoy seeing someone as resourceful as you are keeping bees. That smoker is fantastic by the way!!
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Thanks for the encouragement OldMech.
The cutout hive has calmed down a lot, I would even describe them as gentle right now. I think they were annoyed because they had no queen, the hive probably swarmed just before I cut them out. I take your point though, don't put up with aggressive bee strains.
I think I will make a queen from my other hive. It is the next thing I want to try.
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Hi Oak - really have enjoyed your pics and the progress you've made. Congrats and well done!
I'm very much a newbee - using foundation, with a small hive I haven't touched in years: tidying up and with a new home I hope they will be as successful as your possum box group. Looks like it was a good size! That's how I started in beekeeping - a hive in a possum box that fell to the ground in a big storm. Great hobby. Good Luck to you and your bees.
Hollie, Southwest W.A.
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Thanks Hollie,
It's great to know that I'm not the only one who started with a possum box. It is a great hobby, always more to learn.
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Hi all,
This morning the weather finally allowed me to check for the beginnings of queen cells that I saw last week. I think I was mistaken as there is no trace of them now. It's a bit of a relief.
Glad I got the super on now, I probably should have put it on a week after the bait hive was occupied.
(http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k516/Red2501/PB110010_zps0c863422.jpg)
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Hi all,
Just inspected the cut out hive and I am trying to make sense of it. I guess I expected it to completely turn around after I found the first signs of a laying queen two weeks ago, but that isn't what I saw.
1. I found more eggs but not many. I only saw one solid patch about 2 inches in diameter.
2. The brood area remains limited to about three frames. The grubs I saw last inspection had developed into capped worker brood but the brood area hadn't expanded at all. I didn't see much new uncapped brood.
3. Other frames in the broodbox have largely been left alone. They haven't really made much effort to draw out the frames and a lot look like they did the day after the cut out.
My thoughts are that maybe there aren't enough bees to cover more brood so the new queen is stuck on the three frames.
I gave it a frame of capped brood from my other hive. I will repeat this weekly until I see an improvement. Haven't decided on feeding.
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While cutout hive has plenty of nectar I don't see any capped honey so I have started feeding syrup. I am using an inverted jar and a poultry waterer (with marbles to stop bee drowning) in an extra box between the inner cover and the roof.
I will continue adding one frame of capped brood a week. I may swap the locations of the cutout hive with the stronger hive if things don't turn around.
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Sounds like you have it all under control :-D
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Thanks prestonpaul,
I just reduced the entrance size on the weak hive. No reason to suspect robbing, just a precaution.
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I saw a drone being attacked by one of the workers in the cutout hive yesterday, which I thought was odd.
Today I had a hard time finding any drones. Maybe reducing the entrance size has helped the workers keep them out.
(http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k516/Red2501/PB210003_zpse81eb985.jpg?t=1384912773)
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A hive only supports drones when they are they think they are strong and have surplus or are queenless (laying worker).
Looks like your reducer board is a bit too narrow. Looks like there is a 1/8" gap the length of the board. If you get a robbing situation before the bees glue it up, the robbers will go through that gap.
Jim
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Hi Jim,
I see what you mean. Thanks for the tip, I'll make one out of thicker timber.
Cheers
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The cutout hive has taken 2.5 liters of 2:1 syrup in a week. They are storing it in the broodbox, which isn't surprising considering most of the super frames have not been been drawn out.
I found more capped worker brood. The queen has a solid laying pattern, she has been laying eggs in every available cell so that's good news. I added a frame of capped brood from the strong hive.
Hopefully when the broodbox is full they will start putting honey in the super.
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Hi all,
I don't know what is happening with my strong hive. This morning I saw half a dozen bees standing around the entrance with their bums in the air.
About noon I noticed their were a lot more bees than usual all over the front of the hive. There were so many bees trying to enter the hive that some had been knocked to the ground.
(http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k516/Red2501/PB300002_zps4a77b85a.jpg)
(http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k516/Red2501/PB300004_zps7f50bb28.jpg)
My first thoughts were robbing but it died down within 30 minutes so now I just don't know.
The hives weekly inspection day is tomorrow so I will know more then.
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Hi Oak,
i wish you good luck with your bees. Your smoker is a nice idea :-D
Greetings
Michael
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Thanks Michael
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Nothing unusual in my strong hive so I don't know what yesterday was about.
No swarm cells. The super frames are nearly fully drawn. The empty frames I put in the broodnest are being filled and the brood moved up to the super is being capped.
Below is a frame from the super of my strong hive that I am moving to my weak cutout hive.
(http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k516/Red2501/PC010005_zps59331b37.jpg)
The broodbox of the cutout hive is nearly full but most of it is uncapped syrup. I think now would be a good time to stop feeding. Another interesting thing I saw on the floor of this hive was some dead slaters.
Below are my inverted jar feeders. I stopped using the poultry waterer because it is hard to clean.
(http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k516/Red2501/PC010013_zps165095cd.jpg)
I am going try switching the locations of the strong hive and the weak hive to give the weak hive a boost. I really just want to see what happens. As I mentioned earlier, the buildup of the cutout hive has been much slower than I would have liked.
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Great posts, love the photos!
I really love the look of a new fully drawn foundationless frame of brood :-D
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Cheers Meadlover
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Just did a cut out on a compost bin. The hive had obviously collapsed a couple of times as most of it lay at the bottom of the bin. The owner said it had been there for three months. Very small bees, I think they were really struggling.
Only two frames of comb could be tied into frames. I put the wonky comb onto a couple of nucs that I moved home after dark.
My plan for tomorrow is to put the two frames I cut out with four frames of honey and brood from my strong hive. If the queen is in there, it will be my third hive. If there is no queen I will do a newspaper combine with my weak hive.
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Hi all,
Here is the nuc that I used to transport the comb I could not tie into frames.
(http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k516/Red2501/PC160007_zpsc6da9d20.jpg?t=1387077155)
So much wasted broken comb
(http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k516/Red2501/PC160015_zpsa40560e6.jpg)
I could only save three frames of comb.
(http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k516/Red2501/PC160009_zps1546ce7a.jpg)
So I filled the hive with the three frames from the cut out, four frames of nectar and capped brood from my stong hive, one foundationless frame and two dummies. I had no capped honey to give them so I guess I will feed this hive.
(http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k516/Red2501/PC160014_zpsbb8e69ea.jpg)
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Something is going on with this new cut out. I am hoping they will settle down by themselves.
(http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k516/Red2501/PC160002_zps8b5cb628.jpg)
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OK I know what's happening now.
The bees were trying to build comb on the underside of the hive handle on the front of the hive. I opened up the hive and the bees were not overcrowded but I replaced the two dummy frames with empty foundationless ones just in case. I also put bigger entrance reducer on which seems to have helped. I will add a super as soon as I can.
(http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k516/Red2501/PC160002_zpsbfeb783f.jpg)
......................................................................
The jar feeders are now set up for the new cut out. I'm using 2:1 syrup because I hear that it keeps better.
I also inspected the old cut out hive today. There are eggs on 6 frames in the broodbox so I think it is beginning to turn around. I didn't switch it's location with the strong hive but I probably would have done if I hadn't seen any improvement.
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There is a queen in my new cut out which is great. I haven't seen her but she appears to have a good laying pattern. So glad I don't have to deal with a queenless hive again.
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I will let you know how two layers of gutter guard and a kitty litter tray full of cooking oil works as a hive beetle trap.
(http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k516/Red2501/P9170005_zps120e3053.jpg?t=1378448605)
For anyone who is interested in this approach. Bees are able to get through the gutter guard even when two layers are placed over each other to provide the smallest possible opening.
I am going back to solid wooden bottoms for now.
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Hi all,
I put a second super (10 frames of empty foundationless) on my first cut out hive because the bees were really crowding the entrance in this 30 degree C heat.
(http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k516/Red2501/P1100002_zps092919c4.jpg)
Still, they continue to festoon at the entrance. I even saw one doing a waggle dance in the middle of the bee mass.
The entrance is about 10mm (half and inch) high and 100mm (four inches) wide. Should I make a bigger entrance?
(http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k516/Red2501/P1100003_zps9be838ba.jpg)
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I reckon I'd be making that entrance wider, they will struggle to get enough air circulating in there.
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Thanks Bernsad,
I think I will double the entrance size and then maybe go back to a 6 inch entrance when the weather is cooler.
Cheers
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Thanks again bernsad. An eight inch entrance seems to have fixed the problem.
(http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k516/Red2501/P1100001_zpsedc50897.jpg)
I replaced the hive beetle trap with a solid floor while I was there.
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Hi all,
It's been a while since I posted here so I think it's time for an update. All three hives are fine and I stopped feeding the new one when I put a super on it.
So I have been doing a little high risk stump removal. My advice for anyone attempting this is: When a stray bit of bark hits a beehive....run.
(http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k516/Red2501/Stumpremoval001_zps115b26c9.jpg)
Here is my ant proof hive stand experiment. Unfortunately the upside down black tray doesn't completely prevent ants, especially when they were already nesting under the bottom board. Maybe if I use more grease on it's underside of the tray it will be truly ant proof:
(http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k516/Red2501/Stumpremoval003_zpsdd439899.jpg)
My new waterer is a partial success. I will replace the wooden platform with thicker timber because the stuff I used warped. Also a deeper bucket would not need to be filled as often:
(http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k516/Red2501/Stumpremoval004_zpsc28dbf47.jpg)
(http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k516/Red2501/Stumpremoval005_zpsb7c50f22.jpg)
So all in all things are pretty good. I am enjoying this part of year as I don't need to inspect the hives as frequently as in the spring.
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Hi Oak - how has your new ant-proofing gone? I've only just got into keeping bees and lost my first nuc to a combination of daily robbing from another hive elsewhere, and then with the hive weak the ants moved in and helped to wipe out the hive. If your method seems to work I might bet myself another lot of bees and give it a try.
Andy
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Hi Andy,
I have not tried adding more grease yet. Although I don't really have an ant problem yet, it is still early days. There are other ant proof hive stand designs I have seen on this site which have been tested better than mine.
I have visited a commercial beekeeper in NSW and he mixes the flea control product Frontline with honey and squirts it around the hives in the evening. Apparently the ants find it and take it back to the nest where it will poison the colony.
Obviously it would be really bad if the bees found the poison first.
Regards
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I'd never thought of using Frontline, interesting! But knowing my luck the bees would get into it someone, and goodbye bees!
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Hi Andy,
I have not tried adding more grease yet. Although I don't really have an ant problem yet, it is still early days. There are other ant proof hive stand designs I have seen on this site which have been tested better than mine.
I have visited a commercial beekeeper in NSW and he mixes the flea control product Frontline with honey and squirts it around the hives in the evening. Apparently the ants find it and take it back to the nest where it will poison the colony.
Obviously it would be really bad if the bees found the poison first.
Regards
If you mix it with honey, the bees will be the ones that take it back to their nest. Unless it is cold, your bees are walking around the hive at night and they will smell and find the laced sugar.
I would not do it.
Jim
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Honey & fiprinol.
Words fail me.
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Hi Andy,
I have not tried adding more grease yet. Although I don't really have an ant problem yet, it is still early days. There are other ant proof hive stand designs I have seen on this site which have been tested better than mine.
I have visited a commercial beekeeper in NSW and he mixes the flea control product Frontline with honey and squirts it around the hives in the evening. Apparently the ants find it and take it back to the nest where it will poison the colony.
Obviously it would be really bad if the bees found the poison first.
Regards
If you mix it with honey, the bees will be the ones that take it back to their nest. Unless it is cold, your bees are walking around the hive at night and they will smell and find the laced sugar.
I would not do it.
Jim
I agree it is too risky. Ant proof hive stands all the way.
Oak
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Honey & fiprinol.
Words fail me.
I wouldn't be too hard on the beekeeper. It's obviously working for him.
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Hi everyone,
Just posting a few pics of my beekeeping activities while on holiday in NSW. I am very grateful to the people who were willing to show me around their setup.
A look inside a hive:
(http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k516/Red2501/P2190062_zps13051e94.jpg)
Checking up on some queen breeding:
(http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k516/Red2501/P2190061_zps6b360e0a.jpg)
Some queen cages:
(http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k516/Red2501/P2190070_zpsa6242098.jpg?t=1393410114)
A "queen bank":
(http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k516/Red2501/P2190066_zps7f53b9b6.jpg)
Nearby:
(http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k516/Red2501/P2220076_zps3b85d88a.jpg)
Oak
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Great photos Oak.
We are part of a fantastic community that always seems willing to share. I have yet to meet a beekeeper I don't like. I am sure there is the odd bad egg out there but I think they are fewer and further between than in the non beekeeping world :-D
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Thanks prestonpaul,
Yep, beekeepers are a friendly bunch.
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Well I know what I am doing every day for the next month:
(http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k516/Red2501/P3240006_zpsbeae3a73.jpg)
I am moving this hive to where my other hives are, three feet a day. I just hope the bees don't mind being smoked once a day.
(http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k516/Red2501/P3240011_zps29027815.jpg)
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Why smoke them?
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Hi Jim,
Not sure I would be brave enough to push the hive without smoking it. Wouldn't it make the guard bees aggressive being disturbed without smoke?
Oak
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Smoke is your friend Oak
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I'd lock in at night - move them all the way - put a bushy branch in front of the entrance so it confuses them a bit and they reorient themselves when you let them out next morning.
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Thanks yantabulla,
I will definitely be using smoke
I'd lock in at night - move them all the way - put a bushy branch in front of the entrance so it confuses them a bit and they reorient themselves when you let them out next morning.
I may try this if I get fed up with the three feet at a time method. So far it's not such a hassle, but it is good to have options.
Cheers
Oak
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FWIW I just wait until they've all returned, and then cram a plastic bag in the entrance before moving them. Works for me!
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Hi everyone,
Just posting a few pics of my beekeeping activities while on holiday in NSW. I am very grateful to the people who were willing to show me around their setup...
Oak, what's the hose on top of the hive for?
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FWIW I just wait until they've all returned, and then cram a plastic bag in the entrance before moving them. Works for me!
Thanks kalium, that's a good tip.
(http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k516/Red2501/P2190062_zps13051e94.jpg)
Oak, what's the hose on top of the hive for?
That hose is used to pump sugar syrup from a tank on the back of a ute. The syrup fills the frame feeder which is along the left side of the open hive in the picture.
Oak
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Cheers Oak :) Great idea!
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you can move them 50 to 100 feet, they will smell their hive. at night they all go home